Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) adjusting valves

[CGALATE]

The valves in a 12v should be done every 25k, correct? Can anyone suggest a shop in the Kansas City area to do the job? The ol boy I bought the truck from said he would help me with this kind of wrenchin, but i think he is too busy nowa days.

 

[BigPapa]

Welcome C!



It's really a pretty simple thing if you want to try to tackle it yourself. Follow these directions:



B Series Valve Adjustment



You really don't need the special tools. You'll need:

• 15MM wrench for the valve covers
  
• 13MM wrench for the tappet nuts
  
• stubby flat bladed screw driver for tappets
  

You will need to turn the engine over by one of 3 methods:

• The real barring tool is probably best. I don't have one.
  
• Turn the alternator pulley. This can be done from the top easily. The downside is that it turns the engine backwards and if you go too far you can't backup. It slips going the other way.
  
• Use the balancer bolts on the bottom front of the engine. This is the method I use. Takes a 15MM socket. I use a 1/2" ratchet with a pipe for added leverage. The bolts are generally tight enough you can back up if you need to.
  

There are several methods of finding TDC. I used the overlap/crossover method but my findings were off a few degrees (maybe 10*). When we did my timing we pulled the pin out and left the keeper off so now I just pull the pin out, take the o-ring off and find the TDC, put the o-ring back on and then just put the pin back in after rotating the engine some to move the hole. Don't forget to mark your balancer somehow so you won't have to do it again.



Have fun!



Scott

 

[Dieseldemon]

Pull the valve covers and turn the engine until the #2 EX valve is all the way open that is TDC for adjusting the valves not for engine timing

 

[Fordiesel69]

I have heard of some folks using the starter to have the intake valve open then adjust the exhaust, then make the exhust open and adjust the intake. Probably time consuming but would still do the trick. If you were to do this yourself, it would be better to have a button rigged to the starter to "bump" the engine over.

 

[MAllen]

Where in kc are you located.

 

[surfbeetle]

I believe the manual states to do the initial adjustment at 25k then every 40 to 60k after that. I usually do it once a year which for me is every 12,000 miles. Also another trick to add, when rotating the engine, I loosen the belt from the tensioner, alternator, etc. It makes the engine much easier to rotate to get TDC.

 

[CGALATE]

I'm in the northland, near Parkville. This is my mowing truck, i run Down to Earth Lawn Care.



I'm kind of a do it yourselfer, I just thought 5 and 6 would be a royal pain in the.

 

[surfbeetle]

I just thought 5 and 6 would be a royal pain in the.

Make sure you have a stubby short screwdriver and make sure you can reach them. I usually have to stand on the bumper reach back there.

 

[BigPapa]

The valves in a 12v should be done every 25k, correct?

I just checked mine. Still dead on after 75K miles, but I have 291K on it now. Seems to be after @150K miles they don't change very much.



As far as reaching 5 & 6, I lay a thick furniture pad over the radiator and front part of the motor and just lay on it to reach the rear ones.



Scott

 

[EGILLILAND]

Nice discussion on valve adjusts guys.



A question for the group... .



The Clymers actually tells you to pull the injectors to make the engine easier to turn.



Is this needed?



From the searches amongst our members it doesn't sound like anyone ever does this.



Thanks for any info folks!



E

 

[Bob4x4]

Nice discussion on valve adjusts guys.



A question for the group... .



The Clymers actually tells you to pull the injectors to make the engine easier to turn.



Is this needed?



From the searches amongst our members it doesn't sound like anyone ever does this.



Thanks for any info folks!



E

:-laf No way



Bob

 

[surfbeetle]

Just remove the accessory drive belt, it will turn over easy enough.

 

[WDimig]

valve adjustment using valve overlap.

remove all the valve covers, you can use valve overlap to adjust the valves, yes finding tdc is the most accurate way, but than can be time consuming sometimes, unless it has already been done, and the balancer has been marked. start to barr the engine around in normal rotating direction. watch the valves, if you see the exhaust valve going down on either #1, or #6, watch for the valve to come backup, and close, you should see the intake start to open, valve overlap. stop once you see the intake just to start to open, the opposite cylinder will be ready to adjust. so if you had valve overlap on #6, you should be really close to tdc on cylinder #1. adjust I&E on #1, I on #2, E on #3, I on #4, and E on #5. do not touch #6. barr the engine 360 degress, again looking for the same valve overlap on #6. once you get #6 to tdc, adjust I&E on #6, I on #5, E on #4, I on #3, and E on #2. thats all you need to do to adjust the valves, once they have been adjusted, you really dont need to touch them for at least 80k. hope this helps with adjusting valves on your truck.



wes

 

[rvaughn801]

I have a barring tool if you want to borrow it. PM me, I'm near the Speedway and head north most days.

-Richard

 

[Dieseldemon]

Just bar the engine until # 2 Exhaust is all the way open that is TDC.

 

[WDimig]

not trying to start anything here jim, but just wondering how do you tell that the #2 exhuast valve is all the way open??? that will work when you do the sequence for the #6 cylinder, but how will that work when you need to do the sequence for the #1 cylinder? what if the lash is slightly off?? i have been taught alot of ways to do valves, but this one is new to me, soo please explain jim.



wes

 

[Dieseldemon]

With the #2 valve cover off look at the #2 ex valve when it is all the way down that is top dead center if you don't beleve me when you get the #2 ex valve all the way down push the pin in it will engage the hole on the cam gear if it does not engage move thr engine 1/4" either way and it will drop in I have been using this way for the last 13 years and have not missed yet I have done in the hundreds of 5. 9 Cummins engines Just trying to help some of the guys that are having a hard time of finding TDC if you are use to doing it another way by all means do what ever comes easy for you this is the way I do it.

 

[Vaughn MacKenzie]

remove all the valve covers, you can use valve overlap to adjust the valves, yes finding tdc is the most accurate way, but than can be time consuming sometimes, unless it has already been done, and the balancer has been marked. start to barr the engine around in normal rotating direction.

The good thing about doing valve adjustments is the engine doesn't have to be right at TDC to do it. You can be off one way or the other several degrees without affecting the outcome. . .

 

[Jim Fulmer]

With the #2 valve cover off look at the #2 ex valve when it is all the way down that is top dead center if you don't beleve me when you get the #2 ex valve all the way down push the pin in it will engage the hole on the cam gear if it does not engage move thr engine 1/4" either way and it will drop in I have been using this way for the last 13 years and have not missed yet I have done in the hundreds of 5. 9 Cummins engines Just trying to help some of the guys that are having a hard time of finding TDC if you are use to doing it another way by all means do what ever comes easy for you this is the way I do it.

Stuff like this is what makes the sites great, there is always another way that no one thought of. I'll use it the next time I do the over head.



Jim

 

[WDimig]

i thought about the sequence, and that does make sense jim, i think i may have mis read your orginal post, so does the same apply for the #5 exhaust valve when you set the lash for the #6 cylinder at TDC?