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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Advice on Suspension Lift

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Greetings-



Long time lurker on the boards, and I need some help. I want to lift my truck around 3" to allow some greater suspension travel for my 4x4 travels to go hunting. I have taken my truck through some tough stuff before and have bottomed out the suspension so hard that the passenger headlight assembly has come loose. Probably could have avoided that one if I was a little gentler on the gas pedal.

I have been looking at the KORE Pace suspension system and am thoroughly intrigued. I do not tow anything with my truck, but I do have a lot of weight on the rear - ARE wedge fiberglass cap, and a Truckvault in bed storage system. What I am wondering what systems out there would compare to the KORE system, and what are the pros and cons of each. I don't want to start a suspension war, but before I plop down $1200 for something I would like all the info. Also, does the windwrecker steering stabilizer have any compatibility issues with the KORE lift?



Thanks in advance
 
I would say nothing compares to kore. The pace is a entry level system, but still better than the other offerings for performance.
 
Are you also going to a larger tire?



The thing with most other suspension systems, is that they don't provide more wheel travel, just more clearence for a bigger tire. If the axle stop position where to stay the same, and you put a larger tire on to fill the open wheel well. . well, you would jam the tire in where it didn't fit before.



So on most others, they don't provide more travel, just more room and they lower the stop to keep the additional space so you keep the larger tire from the fender.



The KORE, from what I read, is one of the few that will increase wheel travel, and they aren't tell you to put a 35" tire in there... same tire capacity as if it was stock.



I tow off road, better bigger shocks and better bigger stop bumpers to help control the crashes, 33x12in tires on 16" rims... the side wall of a good off road tire becomes part of your off road suspension package as well.

These 18" and taller bling bling rims are not the best thing of road, unless your going up to a 40+ tall tires. I know someone's going to take offense to that, but sorry, been there seen that. . great for the street handling, not for the ruts off road. I've never lost a rim with this general rule.



The first year of my towing off road and I toasted the stock shocks. I felt them going away and they never returned to their original so so performance.

If you go with dual shocks up front, Fabtech sells a hoop style dual mount that is deisgned for a 1500, but the frames are very close to the same and they will fit on a 2500. The Rancho and other dual shock mount kits that bolt ontop of the shock tower and use one in the stock location and another off to the side SUCK. Due to the one off to the, that shock tends to help RIP the shock tower from the frame due to the unequeal loading. The fabtech hoop does not use the stock shock location. It remains empty, so using a shock with an external expansion tube becomes possible.



I want the KORE but don't have the buck$.
 
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I am currently running 295/75R16 BFG AT's with a little bit of rub on the inside of some turns with articulation. I really don't want to have to buy another set of tires till this set bites the dust - my first set lasted more than 50k, not bad for some all terrain tires.



I have been going through pavementsucks.com and there is a lot of info that I need to digest, but I am still really intrigued by the Kore Pace setup - it seems solid and well thought out. I do not want to raise the truck to make it look mean, it already does. I just want some better performance.



Thanks for the replies, please keep them coming, I can use the help.
 
I just installed the Kore Pace system the other day and I had the extra heavy duty springs with my kit. I got 2. 75" lift in the front and 1" in the rear. Not sure how good the springs in the rear are for towing, but I think it will sag more than stock without that overload spring in there. You could use an airbag setup for the best of both worlds. When I start towing, that's what I plan to do.
 
1) Start your suspension questions with the tires. The sie tire you want to run will determine IF you want to lift your truck, and if so, how far. Do you NEED a bigger tire? Or just a different pattern? how big do you need to go? My advice: go with the smallest tire that will give you what you need



2) Lift: now that you've settled on a tire, ask yourself if you NEED a lift. Will this size tire allow the stock suspension its full travel without rubbing? How extreme am I willing to go on lift? Remember, the farther you lift it up, the more you sacrifice in stability, practicality, ride quality, and MPG.



3) What are my suspension limitations? You mentioned that your truck bottomed hard sometimes. Is this because you ran out of travel or because your existing shocks didn't offer enough damping within the given travel? Maybe you just need stiffer valving or springs?



4) My experience is that the D25 (the "levelling kit springs from Skyjacker) are quite cheaply made, but will do the job. They will level the front end and increase spring rate. This means that bottoming will be pretty hard to do when matched with HD Bilsteins.



If you're willing/able to run a 285 or smaller tire, you could get by without a lift by just getting different springs and/or shocks. Lift is a necessary evil. you want to run as little as necessary, with NONE being ideal.



The KORE spring/shock kit with the 5100 bilsteins is unbeatable for bang/buck.



On a similar note-- if you can't run the tire you want to on the stock wheels, STRONGLY consider a tire that WILL work on the stock wheels. I've seen SO MANY problems that can be traced back to improperly fit aftermarket wheels. The KORE wheels are pricey, but the only ones that fit right. Stick with OEM if you can handle it. If you have the factory 16x8s, your in good shape, as you can run up to a 35" tire on the factory rims.



JMHO
 
Well, after further investigation and too much time on the computer, according to CINCHOME (Commander in Chief Home), I am going to go with the KORE Pace system. There were some cheaper systems out there; but I really am a fan of the function of this setup. I will try to do some detailed install pics when I start the build up. Now I am waiting for Greag at DRC to ship me my kit. BTW - Greg was great to talk with on the phone and answered all my questions even with him being on the road.
 
You will be quite pleased with the KORE Pace system. The new front springs really soak up big bumps. I was very concerned about pulling my overload springs off the back, along with my air springs, and installing the KORE mini packs. I hauled a load of firewood out of the forest last week that was stacked cab high and I had to keep reminding myself that I had a load back there and to slow down for corners! They do a very good job at controlling a load. A few weeks back I had over 2K of steel loaded back there (verified on the public scale) and other that riding a little smoother than I am used to, I hardly knew I had a load on.

Anecdotal information to be sure, but it does demonstrate that KORE is building a happy customer base.



Phil
 
Installed the front springs and Shock today - took about 4 hours. This would heve been quicker if I would hav had tie rod and track bar removal/installation tools. I had to use a little redneck engineering to get that darn track bar back on. Also had to use some ratchet straps to compress the coils enough to install them - was super careful not to let any body parts get in jeopardy. Will try to install the mini packs tomorrow or this weekend.
 
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