advice/tips on building/buying a garage workbench

[DZink24]

i am in desperate need of a workbench for my garage. i currently have nowhere to do work, i have to either use my tailgate or the floor to do work in the garage. does anyone have any tips or experiences that i could use to make sure i dont overlook anything when getting one? i may hire a friend who is a carpenter to help me buid one, unless i can find a good website with plans and material lists. this will just be a basic one, maybe 3'x10', waist high, with an open shelf on the bottom and a pegboard rack on the back. basic tools will be a vice and a small bench grinder. thanks in advance for any tips or advice. .

 

[LRutigliano]

Seems like you have nailed down pretty well. 3' x 10' is an oddball size as you will need two pieces of plywood for the 10'... Maybe 3' x 8' ??



I suggest you round the front edge of the top with a router. Also make the top layer replaceable in case you spill oil on it.

 

[BGlidewell]

in the past I have used various methods depending on intended use. Most workbenches end up becoming storage areas though From CHEAP: Solid core doors on saw hoses to indestructible: 1/2" plate steel welded to pipe pedestals with concrete anchors.

Will you be standing or sitting?
Will you be doing high impact work on it's surfaces?
Will you be clamping things to it?
The list could be endless...

If you're going to be standing, you need to set the hight based on YOUR ergonomics. If the space is limited by the existing structure those details need to be part of the plan. 3' may be on the deep side especially in a typical garage... Consider a back peg board with sides to support a top shelf that holds small items within easy reach.

 

[PToombs]

Dan, I have a sheet of 4 x 10 foot 2 inch thick composite plywood. I also have some 1 1/2" thick stuff too. Give me a call if you're interested.

I have a solid core door for mine, and it works great! Only drawback is as mentioned, it catches clutter behind where I can easily reach.

 

[The patriot]

I have an old industrial bench from Prudential in Newark, NJ.

I dont think it would have a problem holding up a 855 cu in cummins. :-laf

 

[Bill Stockard]

I have an old industrial bench from Prudential in Newark, NJ.

I dont think it would have a problem holding up a 855 cu in cummins. :-laf

Yep, I have a bench like that. I bought it from TDR member Andy Redmond several years ago. It has 4"x 6"s for legs and the top is constructed with 2"x 6"s on edge laminated together. It too would easily hold up a 855 Cummins. If it there wasn't an ingenious way to disassemble to one half size I would need a forklift to move it! Disassembled, it's still a tough job to move for two people.



Bill

 

[The patriot]

Mine is light enough that 2 guys can move it if you unbolt the legs. My brother and I took it out of my parents basement. I'm glad I did or it would have been sold with the house.
Oh, mine also has steel legs with holes in the bottom in case you'd like to lag bolt it down.
It has about 50 drill holes in it, but it's still about as sturdy as the day it was made. Probably 50 years ago. American steel buddy.
I have my Dillon 550 bolted to it, a single stage press, a small drill press and a vise.

 

[Grizzly]

I've always built my own workbenches with 4 x4 post for the legs and 2 x 6 pine for the top, then I wrap the sides and top with replacable 1/8" tempered masonite. I build a plywood shelf at about the mid point. Between my garage and my barn I have 4 workbenches.

 

[Deleted member 995608]

I'd advise steel all the way. It will out last anyone in your household.



Below the sheet steel is my welding table. I can clamp down just about anything, from any angle.



I've since made another 3'x4' work top bench out of the sheet steel, with castors for mobility. Perfectly flat and can take some serious hammer blows, . . . not that I've ever been angry like that :-laf

 

[rbattelle]

My bench is 3'x12'. Supported on 6 4x4 posts. 2x6 outer frame, with 2x6 "joists" spaced 12" on center. Each joist is secured to the outer frame with 2 large drywall screws, 2 20-penny nails, and a load of Liquid Nails Heavy Duty construction adhesive.

The back posts are fully 8' tall, and there's a 2x12 shelf running atop those posts.

The posts are all notched so that the load from the benchtop is supported by the wood, not by the 1/2" bolts that hold everything together.

There are "X" braces at each end to make it rigid front/back.

The top is 3/4" el-cheapo particle board with several thick coats of polyurethane. Cheap and easy to replace when it's worn out. The front edge is capped off with aluminum channel.

If I had to do it all over, this is what I'd change:

1. Wire electrical outlets into the FRONT edge of the bench. WAY more convenient than having cords running from the back wall, across the bench, to whatever you're doing.

2. I didn't interlock the joists with the frame, so they're only held in place by the 2 screws, 2 nails, liquid nails, and friction. In hindsight, I should've cut notches in the frame and corresponding notches in the joists so they lock into the frame.

3. I'd make it out of 2x8s or 2x10s instead. Just for that "extra margin".

An all-steel model would be great, except steel is very expensive and heavy. Some day, if I ever get to build the shop I've been dreaming of since I was 6 years old, maybe I'll have the capacity to put such a beast together.

-Ryan

 

[BIGNASTY]

I'd advise steel all the way. It will out last anyone in your household.



Below the sheet steel is my welding table. I can clamp down just about anything, from any angle.



I've since made another 3'x4' work top bench out of the sheet steel, with castors for mobility. Perfectly flat and can take some serious hammer blows, . . . not that I've ever been angry like that :-laf

That looks just like my welding table JHawes and it will take VERY SERIOUS hammer blows or as I call it persuader blows to get things into position :-laf

 

[The patriot]

JHawes, nice bench! I'd have to make the garage bigger to fit that. :-laf

 

[DZink24]

thanks for the repies so far! and thank you pete for the heads up on the wood. i'll let you know. i am going to look at an all steel table this weekend at my mom's, it was my dads welding table. it's 1/4" steel, and about 3'x8'. if i can steal it and not displace too many things, i will. the more i think about wood, the more doubt i have that i can build something sturdy enought to last. i would never be able to get things level, and legs that won't tilt or sway under weight.

 

[rluft]

The Miller welder webpage has good ideas on metal shop benches.



I have made some stout wood benches. Double 3/4 inch plywood on top, attached with screws so it can be replaced when damaged. Box the legs under the top with plywood to tie the legs together and really make it sturdy, add doors and you have enclosed storage. For a stationary table attach to the wall. For mounting a vise you may want to make the top out of 2by material then 3/4 inch plywood on top to smooth if out.

 

[SOLER]

I have three cabinets, three workbenches, two with pegboard backs, and one that's just a table, and have made four sets of shelves, all using Simpson Strong-Tie brackets. You buy the brackets and self-drilling screws, and use 2x4's for the legs and frame. 3/4 inch plywood for the top and lower shelf. My bench sizes are: 2' x 4' with back and overhead cabinet, 2' x 8' with back, and 2' x 8' table.



These items take up all three walls in my garage right now. They will soon be going in my shop I'm erecting in my back yard



Simpson Strong Ties make these things very stout and make the project go together real easy. You can find them at Lowes and Home Depot. Or have your local lumber store get them. You can get a kit that has eight brackets and two or three boxes of the screws.



I built an enclosed trailer a while back, and have left-over pieces of sheet metal that I use to put on the top of the benches. Makes a nice table top that isn't porous.



SOLER