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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Advice... to buy or not to buy? 2001

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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Std Transmission Repair

Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Hard to start when cold.

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Hi all,



I am a new user here, although this truck will not be my first Cummins diesel.



The truck I am looking at is as follows:



2001 2500 Quad SB Sport Auto



SLT Plus (Woodgrain, leather)



76,500 miles



For a price of $22,450 plus tax etc.





I found out the truck was bought in FL and is now being sold out of CA... ? I was also told it is an SLT plus, but it sounds like a Laramie to me...



It is a lot of miles, but it should have the 5yr, 100mi warranty for another 1. 5 years.



It is 3. 5 hrs away and I am going to check it out on Sat... so any pointers on what to look for is appreciated.



What are your thoughts/insights?



I have had a ******* of a time finding another Cummins for sale...



THANKS ALL ! ! !
 
Originally posted by champspa

Wouldn't have anything 98. 5-2002.

An opinion not universally shared. My 2002 has never been back to the dealer for anything - no problems whatsoever. But then again, maybe that's why this question was posed in the 24 Valve Engine and Transmission forum. :rolleyes:



Rusty
 
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If you are going to use it to tow, I would look for a 6 speed unless it has one of the "good" transmission rebuids.
 
I will only be using it for recreational towing of a boat during the warm months...



So do the transmissions go on these guys early? Around what miles? I am pretty set on getting an Automatic



What are the things that have gone wrong with yours or what should I specifically look at when I check it out...



My last truck was a 98 12-valve...
 
mine is not a 24 valve but the transmission is the same it went at 116k and I tow heavy 14000 most every weekend , 21500 includes truck. with mods in signature it pulls great . I guess you know I was kidding about the 98. 5-2002 trucks. It was just to get some response from those 24 valve owners.
 
Check carefully with the dealer, I bought a 2001. 5, it came with the remainder of the 36K/3 year warranty, but the dealer told me that the 100 K warranty on the engine was not included, only the trucks that were built after a certain month for the 2001 year were covered...

Mine only had 32K on it so I purchased an extended one. . already had to put on another lift pump. love the truck. .
 
I have an 02 and I already have 59,000 miles on her and she is going strong:D These cummins will go forever if treated right, which means that millage is just a way to get the dealer to come down on the price. Oh and is it the ho? :D If you can send me the vin # I can run a carfax report on it and send it to you, i have the program at work free of charge so don't hesitate to send it to me. Corey
 
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Originally posted by GMaines

Check carefully with the dealer, I bought a 2001. 5, it came with the remainder of the 36K/3 year warranty, but the dealer told me that the 100 K warranty on the engine was not included, only the trucks that were built after a certain month for the 2001 year were covered...

. .



So, the dealer told you that it did not have the 100k mi engine warranty? That is the first time I hear that. :rolleyes: I hate dishonest people, it gives the auto industry a bad name. :mad:
 
MGaines, you got taken by the dealer. All Dodge w/ Cummins have 100k warranty on the engine since at least 91. My VP 44 was replaced at 74k w/o question on my 01.
 
Where are you. Maybe you can find a real live TDR folk to help you look at it.



I'd check the LP, but then I have a Briar Hopper test gauge. Flip the key three times and see if any codes are stored in the ECM. They'll read across the odometer. There's one code that usually pops up that doesn't mean anything. I forgot what it is, but can go outside and check. Other codes would have to be referenced. There is one big bad number to watch out for--it indicates VP44 troubles--is it 0216?



I'd pull the air hose off the front of the turbo to see that the turbo is clean--and finger spin it to make sure it turns freely.



When the transmission goes, just pop a DTT or ATS or Sun Coast, -or other- in it and that'll be taken care of. They'll perform better and last years longer than the stock 47RE.



If the crankcase breather bottle hasn't been eliminated, there'll be a bunch of crud on the front of the engine. No worry, just messy. Extend the hose and throw the bottle away is the usual fix.



If a pyrometer has been on the truck and removed, there'll be a hole in the exhaust manifold. If gauges are on it, then GREAT.



If it has a FRAM or other cheapo oil filter on it, you might worry a fuzz.



If you buy it, change the oil/filter and fuel filter first thing. Then check the fuel pressure.



hth
 
The VIN # is 1B7K23681J285531. The car fax report will certainly be appreciated !



yeah not a HO, if i was going manual, that would be a requirement... but alas I am in California's Bay Area... no thanks, I like having equally strong leg muscles.



Yeah, I know these beasts will run forever, if taken care of... which is why the high miles kinda worries me... what if the last guy didn't take care of it? How would I know?
 
Thanks WADE !!! I didn't even know I could do the key flip thing to activate the computer... my last one didn't have that option.



I will definatly do the quick tests as you detailed. Yeah... changing out the filters would be the first thing I would do and convert to synthetic. (the one time I hate having so much damn oil) Red Line is expensive!



Oh and I forget who asked. I am in San Jose.
 
I will run the report and try to get to you as soon as possible, you may never know how the last guy took care of it. The carfax report will so you the service if he took it to auto shops or dealers, but not if he did it by him self or not at all:eek: Plus the they show all the accidents if any and stuff like that.
 
I'm not tryin' to rain on your parade but you might want to look around in the classifieds section on this website and maybe some other places too. Just a quick look in the classifieds section turned up the following:





For $8500 less there is a 1999 (less miles, less money, same bodystyle and engine)

Price $14,000. 00

Model 2500

Mileage 74,000



$8500 will probably pay for your insurance and fuel for a few years. Maybe even a new dog to ride in the back (or front).



For $3000 less

$19,650

Model 2500 SLT QC LWB 2WD

2001. 5

Mileage 59,000



P. S. Last I checked you could get a $4500 rebate and a $500 farm bureau reabate on a new 2003. That coupled with a below invoice price will net you a brand spankin' new truck.
 
I don't know about the 24 Valves, but I wouldn't buy any 5-speed. Even with the fully splined mainshaft. I felt pretty good about having my mainshaft upgraded until the 5th gear synchro exploded and left me stranded.
 
Yeah, I have been looking around for a LONG time, going 2 months without a truck sucks...



and this being just about the 1st truck that has fits the mold of the truck I need and just about every addition I could want helps. It is currently sitting at $1,000 over private party KBB and under dealer Blue by $2. 5K



I have been looking, VERY hard and most of the ones that are cheaper are either not 4x4's, are dually's, don't have the extra cab, or are WAY out of state and my job doesn't exactly permit missing to much of it to venture out to find out the truck has a dent in the side not shown in the picture...



The vin # is 1B7KF23681J285531 - that should be 17 sorry, I do appreciate it.



Any other ideas on specific things to look out for on an 01 with high miles?



Oh and did anyone have a link to what the system diagnostic codes are? That way I could print it out before i go up there...
 
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