AFC lever removal/R&R

[bgilbert]

Hey Scott, how about a refresher course on R&Ring the AFC lever in the pump top/AFC housing? Pretend the lever has been removed prior and now has epoxy securing the ball bearings. What is the procedure to swap a ground AFC lever for a stock unaltered AFC lever aka 'foot' ? Pump top removed, on the bench of course. Pick it up from there.

 

[Greenleaf]

OK... ... .



But I need to brew some coffee first... ... ... ...

 

[Philip]

But I need to brew some coffee first

Bill thats another way of saying he needs to study the books. :-laf :-laf

 

[dpuckett]

Isnt this in the sticky? seriously, I think you just pop/ grind, trim, whatever, the epoxy out of the hole and push the rod through with a small punch. Should be pretty easy from there. Of course, I could be leading you astray.



Why the desire to replace the AFC foot? You're not going to gain any smoke or power with an operational AFC.



Daniel

 

[Greenleaf]

I seriously had to brew some coffee and test drive an ISB.



After the top is removed, the epoxy is ground off flush. You obviously have to work from the flat side of the pump to skin off the epoxy. Then you can see the hole/ball.



I set the top on it's side in a jig to hold the casting, supported by a short brass pipe held in a vice, that sets directly around the pin bore. The pin is then driven through the bore/lever and into the brass pipe. The epoxy on the opposite side will simply "pop off". You have to use a fairly long pin punch as the pin will have to be driven the entire length of the housing.



I like to use oversized ball bearings but you really don't HAVE to. Insert the new lever and secure w/the pin. Then insert the ball bearings. You have to properly support said casting. I use my jig. Drive the bearings in to flush. If you use the OEM sized bearing, then slightly peen the aluminum around the ball a bit and dab w/epoxy.



As explained to me, Bill needs to utalize the AFC to full capacity, hense the install of the OEM lever in place of the cut lever.



I don't know this is included in the stickies. Top removal/gov spring R&R is, but not the R&R of the lever to my knowledge.





GL

 

[bgilbert]

Thanks DP, GL. I was thinking there was an o-ring or something that had to be replaced. I didn't know it was just pop out, pop in etc. I may replace the throttle shaft o-ring while I'm there though.



Since I have a 14mm pump, I need to be able to control the fuel on the bottom end. Scott was nice enough to trade me a stock afc lever for some Bosch part I had last fall at SOP4. I'll have this partially ground foot for ya next SOP, GL.

 

[Greenleaf]

I don't believe I made it clear that BOTH ball bearings must be removed prior to driving the pin out. They must.



In short, you drive the first bearing out (generally the bearing on the stop lever side), then stop. Don't drive any further. The internal pin pushes the first bearing out of it's bore. Then you roll the casting over and drive the second bearing from it's bore. Then drive the pin out either direction.



Special note: the ball bearing bore is larger than the pin bore. Don't drive either bearing into the casting any farther than required to push the other out. The bore is stepped, one sized bore for the bearing and another for the pin.



The "O" ring you thought of is the one on the fuel pin. The reverse lever is removed to gain access to the plug that holds the guide that holds the "O" ring that seals the pin/bore. If I recall correctly, the only way to gain acess to said "O" ring is to remove the lever/pin to pull the plug. The lever is in the way.