Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) AFC Shortcut

[RT66DOC]

Hypothetically speaking ,what would happen if one were to only put three of the four screws back in the AFC cover, leaving out, for example, the front passenger side PITA-under-the-injector-lines 16 mm screw? Temporarily, of course.

 

[JPittinger]

Mine's permenantly "temporarily" removed. Doesn't leak oil so I'm not worried.

-JJ

 

[Eric_B]

Same here, mine has been out/missing for at least the last 120,000 miles. No oil leak.

 

[RT66DOC]

Great news. Thanks, Gents.



OK, here's The Rest of the Story: Got the AFC cover off without removing anything else - intake, etc. I used a foot long skinny bit to drill out the head of the break-off screw then knocked it off with a cold chisel; other three came out easy. Due to the fact that it's pretty tight in there to get pliers on what's left of the break-off screw, I figured I'd just leave it where it is. I'm gonna think of it as sort of a locator/positioning dowel. Replaced the other three with allen head cap screws for easier future access.



Biggest pain is getting the boost control tubing off. Maybe I'll cut it in the middle and put a coupler in or plug it. What happens if I plug it? No wastegate? Then what?

 

[Kernel]

I have all four and it seeps, maybe I should take one out



Scott

 

[bmoeller]

Biggest pain is getting the boost control tubing off. Maybe I'll cut it in the middle and put a coupler in or plug it. What happens if I plug it? No wastegate? Then what?

No power. No boost to the AFC diaphram, means the foot won't move out of the way, thus no fuel.

 

[RT66DOC]

No power. No boost to the AFC diaphram, means the foot won't move out of the way, thus no fuel.

Thanks BM. Figured it was a bad idea but anyway I got it off and back on with a bit of coaxing.

 

[Will24]

I have 3 in mine, no leaking at all...





You shouldn't have to take the AFC line off either, you can just swing the whole housing out of the way.





-Will

 

[JamieWood]

Ok, mine only has two (passenger side front and rear). I have put a quick fix on the shut down solenoid with zip ties. Someone before me had slid the stock plate forward and crossthreaded the bolts and tried to put JB weld in it to make a cobbled up hili coil. What would be the best fix for this situation. I had recently put a #6 plate in and it really makes it a pain to adjust. BTW it doesn't leak.

 

[AMink]

Three works fine. My driver's front is barely in there; I can't tighten it much without stripping the remaining threads. If you use a long ball head allen wrench, you can get the one under the injector out easily after changing them to hex head bolts. I always hold on to it with an extendable magnet so I don't end up using three to put it back on. :-laf

 

[pwerwagn]

Mine only has 2 bolts. I never put the pass/front back in after the plate, and one day at the dragstrip while changin plates, I dropped the driver/rear. I only have the 2 left and it doesnt leak one bit.....

-Jeff