Hi folks!!! Anyone have any experiences with the aFe mega cannon air cleaner? I'm interested in improving airflow through the beast and am thinking of the cannon on the intake and either a muffler eliminator or 4" exhaust to get rid of some back pressure. The truck is a '01 2500 w/ 6speed. 35000 mi. so I'm sticking with the "safer" stuff till I'm through with warranty. Thanx in advance!!!
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aFe filter
- Thread starter jzenk
- Start Date
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Thanks, TDR Staff
AFE Mega Cannon
I have had one for close to a year. There were no gages prior to it, so cain't say as far as improvement. No negatives though. Also, from the TDR Mag, it was the only one that showed improvement on a dyno; but the improvement being in the error from one to another test. However, it does flow about 150% of stock.
If you just wanted to put the filter on like a bhaf and save some bucks. I do like the setup though. Nice and clean, good materials. You could make you a modified Scotty system. The end of the filter is also filter(open) and fits near the firewall.
I have had one for close to a year. There were no gages prior to it, so cain't say as far as improvement. No negatives though. Also, from the TDR Mag, it was the only one that showed improvement on a dyno; but the improvement being in the error from one to another test. However, it does flow about 150% of stock.
If you just wanted to put the filter on like a bhaf and save some bucks. I do like the setup though. Nice and clean, good materials. You could make you a modified Scotty system. The end of the filter is also filter(open) and fits near the firewall.
Been running one for about a year. Good customer service-they replaced the rubber hood seal for me with just one email. I was running a K&N flter before so I did not notice any lower egt's. Good looking and great sound too. 
Joseph Donnelly
TDR MEMBER
The aFe has possibly the best filtration for that type (oiled element). It also dyno'ed higher hp (by 4 hp) than no filter at all on the turbo! No other filtration system tested did better than no filter. See TDR#37, p. 27. You do get a lot of turbo whistle, though.
The stock airbox was 25 hp lower than aFe on a 570 hp engine, but it is quiet.
The stock airbox was 25 hp lower than aFe on a 570 hp engine, but it is quiet.
LSMITH are you kidding-if it ain't cool it ain't going on my truck. 
I put one on my ’02 3500 about six months ago. My being a first time Dodge Diesel driver, and having never heard a Turbo voicing its opinion, it was A LOT disturbing at first. The sound does grow on you, especially when you are just cruising along and you stomp the go pedal and you hear it come alive. 
I had a K&N RE-0880 on for just at 2 years when I got one of the AFE filters and installed it last weekend. I do not know the specific part number for the AFE I have, I got it from another TDR member, and I ordered it alone, as I did not want the full MegaCannon heat shield, etc. . I have a Hitco exhaust/turbo blanket from Geno's Garage, so I am, not really worried about hot air from the manifold or turbo getting sucked up into the air filter.
My observations so far:
(+) the end is also filter material, whereas the K&N 0880 is a solid end, so if you are using an original Psychotty or other type of shroud, it would seem to be a huge air flow restriction there... .
(-) It's opening is much larger than the K&N [4 1/2" vs 4"] so I had to make my own adapter so the AFE would fit on the end of my stock air intake rubber elbow. I used a PVC pipe 3" to 4" adapter.
(neutral) it is about 2" shorter than the K&N 0880.
(neutral) it is about 1 1/2" - 2" larger in diameter at the base than the K&N 0880.
I have noticed no differences in sound, or EGTs between the two filters, nor did I expect to.
Tom
My observations so far:
(+) the end is also filter material, whereas the K&N 0880 is a solid end, so if you are using an original Psychotty or other type of shroud, it would seem to be a huge air flow restriction there... .
(-) It's opening is much larger than the K&N [4 1/2" vs 4"] so I had to make my own adapter so the AFE would fit on the end of my stock air intake rubber elbow. I used a PVC pipe 3" to 4" adapter.
(neutral) it is about 2" shorter than the K&N 0880.
(neutral) it is about 1 1/2" - 2" larger in diameter at the base than the K&N 0880.
I have noticed no differences in sound, or EGTs between the two filters, nor did I expect to.
Tom
Forrest the AFE 20-91002 element hase an id of 4. 5",base dia. of 8. 5",top dia of 7",and a length of 9".
The inlet is radiused like a molded in velocity stack not flat like the K&N. The larger id also contributes to the high flow,the od is more important than the length as proven by the flow bench in testing AFE did before choosing this size
Bob
The inlet is radiused like a molded in velocity stack not flat like the K&N. The larger id also contributes to the high flow,the od is more important than the length as proven by the flow bench in testing AFE did before choosing this size
Bob
Forrest the AFE 20-91002 element hase an id of 4. 5",base dia. of 8. 5",top dia of 7",and a length of 9".
The inlet is radiused like a molded in velocity stack not flat like the K&N. The larger id also contributes to the high flow,the od is more important than the length as proven by the flow bench in testing AFE did before choosing this size
Bob
The inlet is radiused like a molded in velocity stack not flat like the K&N. The larger id also contributes to the high flow,the od is more important than the length as proven by the flow bench in testing AFE did before choosing this size
Bob
I see the occasional thread on here about air systems and air filters, and thought I'd kick in my 2 cents.
A Cummins turbo diesel is a large air pump. Its only going to ask for X cfm of air, and indeed thats all it can take. So when choosing an air filter, you simply need one that will allow the flow that the engine/turbocharger is asking of it, and that will provide ample filtration. If the engine/turbo combination is requesting 700 cfm, it doesn't matter if you have a filter that can pass 1100 cfm or 1400 cfm. In other words, bench flow testing at X inches of water is of limited usefulness when choosing an air system.
The aFe cone filters have repeatedly proven themselves capable of passing as much air as our Cummins asks for, while maintaining very good filtration capabilities.
When adding an air system to your Cummins, you need to keep one thing in mind: Exhaust gas temperature reduction. This is what is truly important.
The filter selection is not the be all and end all when determining how effective your air system will be at reducing EGTs. Where the air is taken from, and hows its shaped around the filter and directed through the filter is, in my mind, more important than bench flow rates.
What is the ideal air system design? First, the system should grab air from outside the vehicle, or at the very least, the filter element should be shielded from the heated air under the hood of the vehicle. A common rule of thumb is that for every 1 degree reduction in intake air temperature (into the cylinders, not at the filter), you will see a corresponding 3 degree reduction in exhaust gas temperatures. The cooler the air heading into the charge air cooler, the cooler it will be as it leaves. Our testing (and independent testing) has shown us that outside air temp can be as much as 60 degrees cooler than underhood temps while at highway speeds.
Second, the air system design should allow for positive pressure to "push" the air through the filter vis-a-via, 1960s ram-air. I believe this is an under-rated factor when designing air systems. The less work the turbocharger/engine has to do to get air, the longer it will remain efficient.
Third, the system should allow for easy flow through it. Turbulent air will only reduce the effectiveness of the system. This is where internal velocity stacks and rounded housings come into play.
So how do you determine how effective your air system is? Static dyno runs without air movement past the vehicle are of limited usefulness. Sitting on a dyno, in a closed room, even with a fan blowing on the vehicle is not going to give you the airflow that is required. With air systems, the proof is in the pudding. Hook your modified truck to a heavy trailer, and hit the highway at 50 mph. Get some air flowing past the vehicle. Hot rod it. If your EGTs are lower than they were before you installed the air system, its doing its job. If the exhaust gas temps come up slower than they did before, the system is doing its job.
A Cummins turbo diesel is a large air pump. Its only going to ask for X cfm of air, and indeed thats all it can take. So when choosing an air filter, you simply need one that will allow the flow that the engine/turbocharger is asking of it, and that will provide ample filtration. If the engine/turbo combination is requesting 700 cfm, it doesn't matter if you have a filter that can pass 1100 cfm or 1400 cfm. In other words, bench flow testing at X inches of water is of limited usefulness when choosing an air system.
The aFe cone filters have repeatedly proven themselves capable of passing as much air as our Cummins asks for, while maintaining very good filtration capabilities.
When adding an air system to your Cummins, you need to keep one thing in mind: Exhaust gas temperature reduction. This is what is truly important.
The filter selection is not the be all and end all when determining how effective your air system will be at reducing EGTs. Where the air is taken from, and hows its shaped around the filter and directed through the filter is, in my mind, more important than bench flow rates.
What is the ideal air system design? First, the system should grab air from outside the vehicle, or at the very least, the filter element should be shielded from the heated air under the hood of the vehicle. A common rule of thumb is that for every 1 degree reduction in intake air temperature (into the cylinders, not at the filter), you will see a corresponding 3 degree reduction in exhaust gas temperatures. The cooler the air heading into the charge air cooler, the cooler it will be as it leaves. Our testing (and independent testing) has shown us that outside air temp can be as much as 60 degrees cooler than underhood temps while at highway speeds.
Second, the air system design should allow for positive pressure to "push" the air through the filter vis-a-via, 1960s ram-air. I believe this is an under-rated factor when designing air systems. The less work the turbocharger/engine has to do to get air, the longer it will remain efficient.
Third, the system should allow for easy flow through it. Turbulent air will only reduce the effectiveness of the system. This is where internal velocity stacks and rounded housings come into play.
So how do you determine how effective your air system is? Static dyno runs without air movement past the vehicle are of limited usefulness. Sitting on a dyno, in a closed room, even with a fan blowing on the vehicle is not going to give you the airflow that is required. With air systems, the proof is in the pudding. Hook your modified truck to a heavy trailer, and hit the highway at 50 mph. Get some air flowing past the vehicle. Hot rod it.
If your EGTs are lower than they were before you installed the air system, its doing its job. If the exhaust gas temps come up slower than they did before, the system is doing its job.
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Issue 128 – Digital Version
Digital Magazines
FREE!
TDR Test Drive - Digital Edition
Renew
Subscribe
Gift Subscriptions
Back Issues
Subscription Status
Address Change Form
Buyer's Guides
Ram Diagnostic Trouble Codes
The Perfect Collection
The Perfect Collection Vol. II
TSB Updates
Dodge/Cummins Historical Overview
Cameron Collection
What Makes Us Tick?
Product Showcase
Advertising
