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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission After market fuel sending unit
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There is a couple of fuel sending unit repairs out there, this one of them.
Fuel sender repair
2nd one.
https://www.turbodieselregister.com...ns/211404-fuel-sender-repair.html#post2041695
Fuel sender repair
2nd one.
https://www.turbodieselregister.com...ns/211404-fuel-sender-repair.html#post2041695
Last edited:
Here is another way which is pretty simple. I got this from Kirk Larson. Here is what he had to say:
"Since the fault is due to a lack of contact pressure I looked at it with a goal to apply pressure on the arm where it would do the most good. There is a metal "cover" over the arm that is arched on one side and straight on the other. I simply looked at the space between the metal cover and the plastic part of the arm as I was holding the arm snug against the contacts. I got a piece of sheetmetal (I had some scraps in the shop) that was that thickness and used the metal cover to scribe a pattern onto the sheet metal. I cut this out leaving 3 bend tabs (two at the extremes on the curved side and one in the middle of the flat side). I simply attached this sheetmetal to the underside of the cover plate by bending the tabs tight with a pair of pliers. I filed the sheetmetal smooth so there were no burrs, added a squirt of WD40 and the arm swung smoothly and the contacts remained in full contact. The plastic part of the arm clip rubs on this plate. "
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"Since the fault is due to a lack of contact pressure I looked at it with a goal to apply pressure on the arm where it would do the most good. There is a metal "cover" over the arm that is arched on one side and straight on the other. I simply looked at the space between the metal cover and the plastic part of the arm as I was holding the arm snug against the contacts. I got a piece of sheetmetal (I had some scraps in the shop) that was that thickness and used the metal cover to scribe a pattern onto the sheet metal. I cut this out leaving 3 bend tabs (two at the extremes on the curved side and one in the middle of the flat side). I simply attached this sheetmetal to the underside of the cover plate by bending the tabs tight with a pair of pliers. I filed the sheetmetal smooth so there were no burrs, added a squirt of WD40 and the arm swung smoothly and the contacts remained in full contact. The plastic part of the arm clip rubs on this plate. "
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rotohead
TDR MEMBER
Bad link. Can you fix it? I will need to fix my sending unit soon and would like the additional info. Thanks
I think you have to be a member to see the thread. I copied it here:
"Well I finally got around to installing a capacitance type fuel sender to replace the stock unit. I have replaced it twice already and was unwilling to spend the money on it again.
What you need is a sender. I got mine from Centroid
CENTROID PRODUCTS - Computerized Tank Display - Electronic Senders - capacitive fuel gauges . You need a 220/20 ohm unit, which is not listed but they will do it no charge. They have different mounting styles. I used the standard 5 hole SAE mount (no charge) but they have other options. You also need to know how long it needs to be and they will cut it and calibrate it for you. However you can cut it yourself if need be. I ordered mine 14. 5 inches long. They say it needs to be 1/2 inch off the bottom mine ended up being about an 1 inch off the bottom. Had I been able to measure it accurately I would have gotten it 15 inches long. It will depend on where you place it as to the length you will need
You will also need a drill, 1 inch spade type bit or hole saw, 3 butt splice connectors 16-18g size, 3 ring connectors/ends. I also used a 3 wire GM Weather Pak Connector 1 ea male and female. Also need some type of gasket sealant good for diesel fuel. I used Permatex Form a Gasket #2, so far it is working fine. You will also need 5 bolts and nuts. I used 10/24 1. 5 inches long with a washer on top, washer underneath with a lock washer and the nut. (1/4 inch will not fit nor will 6 mm)
Remove the tank from the truck. You might be able to do this by removing the bed but you may find your wires might be a bit short to work with.
Drain remaining fuel if not already empty.
Clean top of the tank to help keep any crud from getting into the tank once opened up.
Remove cannister lock ring. A few soft hits with a hammer and chisel got mine right off.
Remove the module. I checked mine and was suprised it was very clean very little stuff inside the screen was free of dirt as well. In fact the entire tank had little crud if any in it.
Remove float assembly from module (you could leave it in but why take the chance of the float disintegrating over time like has been mentioned on this forum many times in the past).
Set cannister aside in a safe clean place for now.
Drill your 1 inch hole in your fuel tank (it drills easily). I placed a couple shop rags inside the tank underneath the area I was going to drill to catch the drill shavings. My hole was placed on the step up about 12-14 inches forward of the module. From the manual this appears to be a spot for a rollover valve on the gas vehicles. There was a nice flat recessed area even had a centerline cross on it. The circular area was the exact same size as the sae mount for the new sender. (by the way my tank is from a 4x4 long bed qc truck either 35 or 36 gallons in size). It appears that not all trucks have the same type of tank so be aware of that.
Place new sender in your new hole and drill the 5 holes for the mounting bolts.
The sender came with a gasket and I used it but I also used some gasket sealant so if using it now is the time to apply it.
Put it all together and tighten down the bolts firm but not too much. You dont want to mess up the gasket or crack the sender head.
I reinstalled the module at this time but you could do it later especially if you are combining this with a draw straw install.
From the electrical plug that plugs into the module snip of the end connector (you might want to leave enough wire so that if you wanted to put it back you could).
From one side of your 3 wire GM weather pak connector (mine came with pigtails on them) attach 3 ring connectors/ends.
From the remaining side of the GM weatherpak connector attach two wires from the bundle you previously clipped. On my truck (2001) the two wires you need are black/light blue is sensor ground and dark blue/white is fuel level sensor signal. The remaining two wires(green & black) in that harness are unused by the vehicle they are for a gas truck. Use the butt splices(I also used shrink tubing) to connect the harness to the gm connector wires. The gm connector is labeled A,B,C (on each side) take note of which wire goes to which letter as you will need to know that later.
Now you need to run a 12v ign switched power wire to the remaining wire of the GM connector. Again take note of which one a,b or c it is.
Take the gm connector side with the ring terminals and attach it to the new sender per the directions. This is where knowing the a,b,c comes in handy.
Now put the tank back in place. Once in place just push the GM connector together.
Turn on the key in your truck and check your fuel level. Well at least after you put some fuel back in it. Mine read as follows being approx 1 inch off the bottom of the tank. 9 gals 5/16 of tank, 14 gals 7/16, 19 gals 9/16, 24 gals 11/16, 29 gals 13/16, 34 gals 16/16(full), 36 gals 17/16 (just over full). I only waited a bit after each 5 gals I pumped in then checked the level except for the inital 9 gals poured that all in at home.
Not sure if the low fuel light will work or not. Have no reason to think it wont but it was not on after I poured in the 9 gallons of fuel initially.
Anyway I hope this helps someone I wanted to do a cap type sender but was afraid of the wiring and as it turns out it is nothing at all. 3 wires two of which are already there and a simple 12 v feed. No problem what so ever. "
"Well I finally got around to installing a capacitance type fuel sender to replace the stock unit. I have replaced it twice already and was unwilling to spend the money on it again.
What you need is a sender. I got mine from Centroid
CENTROID PRODUCTS - Computerized Tank Display - Electronic Senders - capacitive fuel gauges . You need a 220/20 ohm unit, which is not listed but they will do it no charge. They have different mounting styles. I used the standard 5 hole SAE mount (no charge) but they have other options. You also need to know how long it needs to be and they will cut it and calibrate it for you. However you can cut it yourself if need be. I ordered mine 14. 5 inches long. They say it needs to be 1/2 inch off the bottom mine ended up being about an 1 inch off the bottom. Had I been able to measure it accurately I would have gotten it 15 inches long. It will depend on where you place it as to the length you will need
You will also need a drill, 1 inch spade type bit or hole saw, 3 butt splice connectors 16-18g size, 3 ring connectors/ends. I also used a 3 wire GM Weather Pak Connector 1 ea male and female. Also need some type of gasket sealant good for diesel fuel. I used Permatex Form a Gasket #2, so far it is working fine. You will also need 5 bolts and nuts. I used 10/24 1. 5 inches long with a washer on top, washer underneath with a lock washer and the nut. (1/4 inch will not fit nor will 6 mm)
Remove the tank from the truck. You might be able to do this by removing the bed but you may find your wires might be a bit short to work with.
Drain remaining fuel if not already empty.
Clean top of the tank to help keep any crud from getting into the tank once opened up.
Remove cannister lock ring. A few soft hits with a hammer and chisel got mine right off.
Remove the module. I checked mine and was suprised it was very clean very little stuff inside the screen was free of dirt as well. In fact the entire tank had little crud if any in it.
Remove float assembly from module (you could leave it in but why take the chance of the float disintegrating over time like has been mentioned on this forum many times in the past).
Set cannister aside in a safe clean place for now.
Drill your 1 inch hole in your fuel tank (it drills easily). I placed a couple shop rags inside the tank underneath the area I was going to drill to catch the drill shavings. My hole was placed on the step up about 12-14 inches forward of the module. From the manual this appears to be a spot for a rollover valve on the gas vehicles. There was a nice flat recessed area even had a centerline cross on it. The circular area was the exact same size as the sae mount for the new sender. (by the way my tank is from a 4x4 long bed qc truck either 35 or 36 gallons in size). It appears that not all trucks have the same type of tank so be aware of that.
Place new sender in your new hole and drill the 5 holes for the mounting bolts.
The sender came with a gasket and I used it but I also used some gasket sealant so if using it now is the time to apply it.
Put it all together and tighten down the bolts firm but not too much. You dont want to mess up the gasket or crack the sender head.
I reinstalled the module at this time but you could do it later especially if you are combining this with a draw straw install.
From the electrical plug that plugs into the module snip of the end connector (you might want to leave enough wire so that if you wanted to put it back you could).
From one side of your 3 wire GM weather pak connector (mine came with pigtails on them) attach 3 ring connectors/ends.
From the remaining side of the GM weatherpak connector attach two wires from the bundle you previously clipped. On my truck (2001) the two wires you need are black/light blue is sensor ground and dark blue/white is fuel level sensor signal. The remaining two wires(green & black) in that harness are unused by the vehicle they are for a gas truck. Use the butt splices(I also used shrink tubing) to connect the harness to the gm connector wires. The gm connector is labeled A,B,C (on each side) take note of which wire goes to which letter as you will need to know that later.
Now you need to run a 12v ign switched power wire to the remaining wire of the GM connector. Again take note of which one a,b or c it is.
Take the gm connector side with the ring terminals and attach it to the new sender per the directions. This is where knowing the a,b,c comes in handy.
Now put the tank back in place. Once in place just push the GM connector together.
Turn on the key in your truck and check your fuel level. Well at least after you put some fuel back in it. Mine read as follows being approx 1 inch off the bottom of the tank. 9 gals 5/16 of tank, 14 gals 7/16, 19 gals 9/16, 24 gals 11/16, 29 gals 13/16, 34 gals 16/16(full), 36 gals 17/16 (just over full). I only waited a bit after each 5 gals I pumped in then checked the level except for the inital 9 gals poured that all in at home.
Not sure if the low fuel light will work or not. Have no reason to think it wont but it was not on after I poured in the 9 gallons of fuel initially.
Anyway I hope this helps someone I wanted to do a cap type sender but was afraid of the wiring and as it turns out it is nothing at all. 3 wires two of which are already there and a simple 12 v feed. No problem what so ever. "
I just installed this using these instructions and now my truck is throwing the 0463 code.
P0463
Fuel Level Sending unit Volts Too High
P0463
Fuel Level Sending unit Volts Too High
SSolderitch
TDR MEMBER
I just replaced mine yesterday with a stock one. I ordered it online for $55. 00 with shipping. I was going the repair the one in the truck or use the new one and repair it for the next time. When I pulled the unit fron the tank the float was missing altogether, so in went the new one. If anyone has a non-repairable unit with a good float let me know.
Hey Kevin!
My family and I had the distinct pleasure of spending about week in your area (Winnemucca) last month! You have a terrific hometown and area to live in! VERY different from Iowa. We spent a week RV'ing and prospecting in that big ol' desert about 30 miles west of Winnemucca and riding up mountains on the dirtbike. I would definitely like to go back sometime. 4x4 heaven, but watch out for those razor-sharp shale outcroppings that seem deliberately poised like medieval breastworks at tire-slicing angles to defend the mountain tops from would-be explorers! Mean stuff!
I'll be following this thread closely since my '96 fuel gauge has recently become quite the liar. At least I still have fuel when it says "empty", but at some point, it will be telling the truth and I might not believe it.
My family and I had the distinct pleasure of spending about week in your area (Winnemucca) last month! You have a terrific hometown and area to live in! VERY different from Iowa. We spent a week RV'ing and prospecting in that big ol' desert about 30 miles west of Winnemucca and riding up mountains on the dirtbike. I would definitely like to go back sometime. 4x4 heaven, but watch out for those razor-sharp shale outcroppings that seem deliberately poised like medieval breastworks at tire-slicing angles to defend the mountain tops from would-be explorers! Mean stuff!
I'll be following this thread closely since my '96 fuel gauge has recently become quite the liar. At least I still have fuel when it says "empty", but at some point, it will be telling the truth and I might not believe it.
Kevin Smith:
I am the one who wrote up that install and I too had the voltage too high code. However it went away. I am not sure why it did it but again it hasnt done it again in 40k miles. Though it could be I dont normally check the codes. However I have had an irritating code issue with my cam sensor and whenever the cel comes on I check the codes and that one has not been present. If ircc the stock system starts out with less volts (5v?) so it could be that when the tank is below a certain level it does see to much voltage compared to what it is looking for however in any case or at least my case it seems to work fine.
An update on the whole system. For me it seems to be working fine no problems whatsoever. A couple others who have done it have mentioned that they had problems with proper fuel level reading(eg full tank reading 5/8 or something like that). I am not ragging on them at all but two of the three adjusted the full level and maybe that had something to do with it. I just stuck it in as I wrote it up and adjusted nothing. The other person is quite adamant that it is a POS setup and wont work properly as he tried it. I have no experience except with my own install and it has worked flawlessly for me, couldnt be happier with it. I have no idea how many others have tried with no problems. I know of a couple who are quite pleased with it ( the ones I got the idea to do it in the first place) as well but really no idea of the ratio of good to bad installs.
A couple of things that I have noticed with the system
1 the stock system has a delay built in (per the service manual) I assume it is there because there are no baffles in the tank and just driving up and down hills would change your reading, the centroid sender also has a delay built in so now you in essence have a double delay( or time it uses to average the reading). My driveway is fairly steep so when I start up in the morning it takes approximately 7 minutes of driving for the gauge to stop going up (it does this slowly).
2 I think the reason it shows in my tank on my driveway 1/8 low at startup is the fact that where I placed my sender is approximately 12-14 inches forward of the stock float so it is closer to the front end of the tank and if parked uphill as more of the fuel is in the back end of the tank. If I park backwards in my driveway the opposite happens it shows approx 1/8 fuel too much for about 7 minutes(as long as I am not sitting in the driveway). For me this has never been a problem and once off my driveway it seems to be normal. The stock system did the same thing but didnt take as long to normalize nor was it 1/8 it was more like 1/16th.
This may or may not be a good choice. I went through several senders(they seemed to last me approx 50k) before I gave up and just ran around with empty on my gauge all the time until I read about this on here. With my personal experience I would have to say yes but there are others who may disagree.
I am the one who wrote up that install and I too had the voltage too high code. However it went away. I am not sure why it did it but again it hasnt done it again in 40k miles. Though it could be I dont normally check the codes. However I have had an irritating code issue with my cam sensor and whenever the cel comes on I check the codes and that one has not been present. If ircc the stock system starts out with less volts (5v?) so it could be that when the tank is below a certain level it does see to much voltage compared to what it is looking for however in any case or at least my case it seems to work fine.
An update on the whole system. For me it seems to be working fine no problems whatsoever. A couple others who have done it have mentioned that they had problems with proper fuel level reading(eg full tank reading 5/8 or something like that). I am not ragging on them at all but two of the three adjusted the full level and maybe that had something to do with it. I just stuck it in as I wrote it up and adjusted nothing. The other person is quite adamant that it is a POS setup and wont work properly as he tried it. I have no experience except with my own install and it has worked flawlessly for me, couldnt be happier with it. I have no idea how many others have tried with no problems. I know of a couple who are quite pleased with it ( the ones I got the idea to do it in the first place) as well but really no idea of the ratio of good to bad installs.
A couple of things that I have noticed with the system
1 the stock system has a delay built in (per the service manual) I assume it is there because there are no baffles in the tank and just driving up and down hills would change your reading, the centroid sender also has a delay built in so now you in essence have a double delay( or time it uses to average the reading). My driveway is fairly steep so when I start up in the morning it takes approximately 7 minutes of driving for the gauge to stop going up (it does this slowly).
2 I think the reason it shows in my tank on my driveway 1/8 low at startup is the fact that where I placed my sender is approximately 12-14 inches forward of the stock float so it is closer to the front end of the tank and if parked uphill as more of the fuel is in the back end of the tank. If I park backwards in my driveway the opposite happens it shows approx 1/8 fuel too much for about 7 minutes(as long as I am not sitting in the driveway). For me this has never been a problem and once off my driveway it seems to be normal. The stock system did the same thing but didnt take as long to normalize nor was it 1/8 it was more like 1/16th.
This may or may not be a good choice. I went through several senders(they seemed to last me approx 50k) before I gave up and just ran around with empty on my gauge all the time until I read about this on here. With my personal experience I would have to say yes but there are others who may disagree.
Just got my laptop back after a complete crash. My centroid unit is not working out. The unit I ordered from them was very similiar to the one described in Barrys article. Now that I know more about what I need I am going to go with Isspros two wire unit.
The only question I want to double check is that there are 220 empty or full?
The centroid product was built exactly as I ordered but I did not know enough then to order the correct part. I am not going back to them just because they a real pain to get ahold of.
The only question I want to double check is that there are 220 empty or full?
The centroid product was built exactly as I ordered but I did not know enough then to order the correct part. I am not going back to them just because they a real pain to get ahold of.
Should the unit read 220 ohms empty or full? I need to double check before I order my unit from Isspro today.
Last edited:
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Issue 128 – Digital Version
Digital Magazines
FREE!
TDR Test Drive - Digital Edition
Renew
Subscribe
Gift Subscriptions
Back Issues
Subscription Status
Address Change Form
Buyer's Guides
Ram Diagnostic Trouble Codes
The Perfect Collection
The Perfect Collection Vol. II
TSB Updates
Dodge/Cummins Historical Overview
Cameron Collection
What Makes Us Tick?
Product Showcase
Advertising
