aftermarket wheels ????

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has anyone used weld wheels with any success ????
any good places to buy them,,,,what other wheels will fit our trucks without sticking out of the wheelwells ???

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'95 xt cab,slt,4. 10,auto,265 stones,K&N,tst 605, silencer ring in top of toolbox, boost and pyro in full pillar mt. 153,000 mi and climbing... went to feed the cat and it was GONE !!!!!

 

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I just had some Eagle alloy wheels installed with stock tires (hopefully will be putting on 285's in the very near future) sorry don't remember the style as the truck went straight to the service department for oil leaks and a new clutch but the wheels resemble factory Dodge wheels that are on the 1500's (late 90's).

Paul

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'96 2500 ext. cab, LB, 4x4, 5 speed, 3. 54, TST 280 cam plate, AFC spring kit ,pyro and boost gauges mounted on A-Pillar, tinted windows, 16x8 Eagle alloys

 

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JD. . just one suggestion . . no offense meant by it

Suggest you look at cast v/s others because we produce so much torque we max the stress on them. . if your 4x4 even more important. . also HP level even further raises the issue. .
Gary

 

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JD,
I have been running Weld Typhoon 16. 5 x 9. 75 for five years. The finish still looks as good new. I have had no problems with them. They are a little pricey, but I think they're worth it.
I chose the deeper rims for looks and added bushwacker flares. This setup made the tire flush with the flare. You could probably get away with the 8" and no fender flare.
4 Wheel Parts Wholesalers has pretty competative prices on Weld wheels. http://www.4wheelparts.com/

willyslover,
Could you offer a little more info on cast vs. forged wheels. I would be suprised if Weld wheels could'nt take anything the little Cummins could dish out. #ad



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'95 2500, SLT, 4x4, 5-Speed, 4. 10 LSD, TST #6 250/635, VDO EGT-Oil-Trans temp on A-pillar, Isspro Boost, Mag-Hytec, Amsoil in dif's & engine, Leer shell, Bushwacker flares, 33x12. 50 on Weld 16. 5x9. 75 --19Kmi

 

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Willyslover, GLAD YOU'RE BACK!!! #ad
#ad


Gotta step in here though, It is my belief that FORGED is the way to go on ANY heavy duty application. Cast is limited by the bubbles and imperfections that just happen at casting time. Forged results in an almost perfectly dense material that is then machined to it's finished shape.

If cast was better, why do all the REAL high performance cars (past and present) have FORGED rather than CAST crankshafts in 'em??

#ad
#ad


Mick

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2001 2500 ETH/DEE, QuadCab, 4X4, SB, LSD, 3. 54, SLT+, Sport, Intense Blue PC/Agate, Tow Package, Camper Package, 'DC' Bed Cover, Sliding rear window. Ordered 5/01/00... Cancelled 5/30/00... re-ordered 6/02/00... Cancelled again by DC 6/05/00
Gauges (EGT/Boost) and A-Pillar mount Here, 4" Exhaust on order.

 

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mickey thompson alcoas are the strongest , but I like Enkei's CTM-4 these wheels look sweet and don't stick way out, they are expensive though

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BLACK BEAST: 2K1 QC, SWB, Auto, 4X4, 4. 10 LSD, SLT, Black, Camel leather, Tow pckg, nv241HD, cab lights, 2 inch daystar coil spacers, 35 inch Mickey thompson claws, bushwacker flares, rhino lined bed and rocker panels.

soon to come; DD stage 1's, boost module, possibly van aaken.

GREEN MACHINE: 93 Jeep Wrangler 4. 0L, T-18, 38X11 Boggers, Dana 44's, AtlasII T-case, ARB's, warn and moser shafts, Ramsey 5K winch... . NEEDS A DIESEL!!!!!!

[This message has been edited by TURBO-D (edited 06-11-2000). ]

 

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Ive had Weld roadhawks 16. 5x9. 75 on my snow plow rig for 6years and 2 sets of bfg all terrains,still look like new. Had a set of cast 8hole wheels both fronts developed cracks at the bolt holes but I have a posi in the front. Have also snapped a few lockouts. The welds take everything I dish out to them. Just my opinion,open to others.

 

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Well I got to throw my $0. 02 in here. I don't want to get into the different types of construction so much as the load rating of the wheel (which is the most important) and the back spacing (2nd most important).
First, you should find out the load rating of each wheel before you buy it. If you have a Ram 2500 rated at 8800 lbs and you buy wheels rated at 1850 each you come up short for the over-all Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR) by 1400 lbs (4 X 1840=7400 your truck is rated at 8800lbs total, now your wheels are only rated at 7400lbs total)
So check you load rating, Mickey Thompson and Weld both make wheels rated at over 3000lbs each, so no problem.
About tires sticking out of the wheel wells, this is a function of back spacing on the wheel. If you have backspacing of 5-1/2" (2001 ETH) you need to stick with that spacing. Back spacing is the distance from the wheel surface that bolts to the hub and the top edge of the wheel. Lie the wheel face down put a straight edge ruler or anything straight across the the lip of the wheel and measure from the surface that bolts to the hub and the straight edge and that tells you the back spacing for your wheel. So no matter what wheel you buy if it has that back spacing the tire won't stick out of the fender wheels.
WWWhhhhheeeeewwwww got a little winded on that one but hope it helps.
A couple of places to check for wheels,in addition to 4-wheel parts wholesalers is, National Tire and Wheel @ 800391-1113 or Tryes International @ 800-321-7123.
Good Luck! #ad

 

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Now in addition to all that being said and done we have to move this thread over to the Products forum. #ad
#ad

 

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Mike, I think you got a couple of things wrong there. First off on the wheel and tire ratings - you have to take into account GAWR (Gross Axle Weight Rating) as well as GVWR so that you don't reduce the capability of your truck. For example - the front GAWR of my 2500 is 4800 lbs and the rear is 6084 lbs. That weight rating is the rating of the weakest component in the system. In my case my stock tires were rated at 3042 lbs, 3042x2=6084 lbs - coincedence? So the stock wheels are rated to at least 3042 lbs and probably a little more than that.

Second, on back spacing. You are correct about measuring the back spacing and getting a wheel with the same. Where you got a little off track was when you said that "No matter what wheel you buy if it has that back spacing the tire won't stick out of the fender wells. " That all depends on how wide a wheel and tire you are getting - most people are buying 16x8s (1. 5 inches wider than stock). With that wheel and the stock back spacing the wheel and tire will stick out at least 1. 5 inches from the stock position. Probably a little more because of the wider tire too.

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-Steve St. Laurent - President of the Great Lakes TDR, Chapter Forums Moderator
'98 Quad Cab Long Bed (CMNSPWR), 4x4, ISB, 5sp, 4. 10 LSD, Prime-loc remote fuel filter, boost & pyro gauges, TST Powermax, muffler eliminator, 5" chrome tip, BD Exhaust Brake, Isspro turbo temp monitor, Permatech spray in liner, Grizzly stainless nerf bars, Stull SS grill & bumper inserts, Front Draw-Tite receiver, BFG 285/75R16 AT KO's

[This message has been edited by Steve St. Laurent (edited 06-11-2000). ]

 

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Forged wheels and hydraformed wheels ARE stronger than cast. The grain structure of the aluminum is MUCH denser in the forged wheels than with cast. Also, hit a curb head on at speed with a forged wheel and a cast wheel, the forged wheel will bend, usually retaining the tire whereas, the cast wheel WILL break, fracturing to the point of tire separation from the wheel. If you want THE STRONGEST wheel on the market (regardless of advertised claims), purchase the M/T Alcoa Challengers or Classics (not the new Classic IIs... they are cast). Although not as strong, the Weld wheels for our application are also a very good wheel. The Weld wheels are not forged, instead, they are fabricated of 2-pieces of hydraformed aluminum (from rolled sheet stock), fusion welded together in the center periphery of the hub area (unnoticeable when the tire is mounted). The two wheel halves are constructed of a front half consisting of a hub and a rear half which is more or less a mirror image of the front half (not a wheel and hub as is the case of most steel wheels). Both the M/T Alcoa and Weld wheels are excellent choices as well as the forged wheels from Alcoa (although, they usually don't have the width sizes preferred by us Rammers).

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'98. 5 2500 QC 4x4, (BLACK) SLT Sport, ISB, LWB, 3. 54 LSD, A/T, Glasstite Vision II canopy, Line-X bed liner, 285/75R16 BFG A/Ts on 16x8 M/T Challengers, Warn 4X Boards, Mopar fender flares, front and rear NW Custom stainless steel/rubber mud flaps, Mag-Hytec diff. cover and trans. pan, Edelbrock IAS shocks, Mopar tow hooks, Reese Titan V hitch, Jordan Research Ultima 2020 trailer brake controller, VDO Vision gauges, '00 Sport grille, '00 Sport headlights with PIAA Super White 9007/9004 bulbs, 4-2-7+4 Brite-Box, PIAA Dual Sport 900 auxiliary lights, BD exhaust brake and TorqLoc, Prime-Loc fuel filter relocation kit, Bosch 275 hp. injectors, VA CPC, DD Boost Module, Banks Stinger wastegate actuator, BLACK '00 valve cover, Banks Stinger 4" dia. stainless steel exhaust system, BD LV V10/Cummins hybrid TC and valve body, BD modified transmission front pump and PressureLoc, plus many other trick modifications

 

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16x8 welds are rated at #3200 M/t#3000 Alcoa#3000. Just info not making any claims you can go to their websites,all are good wheels buy the style you like and forget it.

 

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Maybe I mis spoke re cast v/s forged lots of info out there... my only point is the torque, HP,loads we can acheive demand that we buy the strongest rated for all above stated info... lots of week rims that look good might not cut it in our applications... [ie. I purchased the hightest rated truck rims for my Jeep do to the abuse factor I'll put it thru so if i carry this logic thru to my super HD ram... only the hightest rated will do!!] read up make a decision on your needs

 

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The weld truck wheels are also forged billet wheels. Like I said go to the wheel manufactures sites and get the facts. New question, is hot forged or cold forged better? I have no idea.

 

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6bbl, the Weld Typhoon, Roadhawk, Scorpio, Outback and Super Single II etc. series of wheels are NOT forged. Read my post above. Irrespective of advertised claims, they are also NOT AS STRONG as M/T Alcoa wheels. Also, how many Weld wheels do you see on big rigs or 747s? Answer: NONE. And for good reason, they are not as strong as the Alcoa or M/T Alcoa FORGED wheels. The Weld's look nice and are very strong however, if you are looking for the ultimate in strength, the M/T Alcoa's are the one.

 

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John,,,Weld wheels are forged:
Your #1 Source for FORGED Aluminum Truck Wheels!
Weld Racing's Forged wheels are made of premium aircraft grade "Wrought Alloys" that are virtually porosity free and molecularly superior compared to the aluminum ingot used in cast or composite wheels. Weld Racing will not sacrifice quality or safety for price.
this came off of Weld's site... .

Lighter Weight:
Weld Racing's Forged wheels typically weigh up to 33% less than cast wheels. With this weight reduction comes improved acceleration, braking, handling and gas mileage.
Greater Strength:
Weld Racing's Forged wheels are Lightweight, Strong, Durable and Dependable. They won't chip or crack like cast wheels. You can manufacture a stronger yet lighter wheel using the FORGING process .



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'95 xt cab,slt,4. 10,auto,265 stones,K&N,tst 605, silencer ring in top of toolbox, boost and pyro in full pillar mt. 153,000 mi and climbing... went to feed the cat and it was GONE !!!!!

 

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John the manufacturing process you describe is how they make the draglights. Weld does not claim these will work on a 747 or a semi. The alcoa wheels on a light truck are not the same as the wheels on a semi or a 747,look at the weight ratings,and they do not carry the same warranty. The weld truck wheel uses a billet center hub and a forged wheel pressed together and welded. Some people believe that a billet center is better because you do not have to worry about cold or hot lap forging flaws. Billet center also does not have manufacturing stress built into it so it should stay staighter. Only problems I have seen with 8hole wheels Is cracking at the bolt holes,the weld should be better in this respect as it is billet not formed. Like I said all of these wheels are great. go to their websites and get facts. Just pick a style and buy them these are all strong wheels.

 

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Have you guys even looked at A Weld wheel for OUR application? #ad
The two wheel halves are as I described in my FIRST post in this thread. I know what Weld claims. After looking at several of their wheels when I was trying to decide whether to purchase another set of M/T Alcoa's or go to Weld's, I looked into these wheels rather extensively. After looking at several of Weld's wheels, their web site as well as their FULL product catalog, I was amazed to find the manufacturing process in which these wheels claim to be made was inaccurate. After I placed a call to Weld, they told me that not ALL of their wheels are constructed with the same materials and techniques. I firmly believe (after being in the industry for over 25 years) that Weld believes that Hydraforming a wheel can actually be misconstrued as forging. BTW, as I previously stated, the Weld's consist of two wheel halves (inner and outer), hydraformed from sheet stock that was ORIGINALLY forged from large aluminum ingots, with the juncture of the two halves welded with the fusion welding process their entire periphery. See where the Weld advertising takes over?

As far as the Alcoa's used on OTR trucks and 747s etc. , obviously these are not the same wheels used for light trucks! #ad
These wheels are designed and engineered for each specific application. However, the manufacturing process IS EXACTLY THE SAME AS FOR LIGHT TRUCKS! All of their wheels are hot die forged from aluminum ingots. I've even talked to an Alcoa Rep. about the manufacturing process used in the construction of these wheels. All of the material I machine at work for wing chords on 737s, 757s, 767s, and 777s (as well as 747s at a different location) are constructed of extruded (from forged ingots), aluminum. Call them forgings if you want however, you would not be correct.

 

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Please understand I think both the M/T Alcoa (and Alcoa) and the Weld wheels are extremely strong, well made wheels. I firmly believe that they rate in order of strength as listed above. All of the previously listed wheels will do the job asked by us thus, the deciding factor will be aesthetics by each individual purchaser. That BTW, is why I even bothered to look at the Weld's. I really like the looks of the Typhoon's, Roadhawk's and Scorpio's. In the end, the M/T Alcoa's won out as they are the strongest.

 

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John are you sure you went to welds site?The super single F1 is a 1 piece forged billet wheel weight rating 3500#. Super single 2 piece,roadhawk,typhoon is a 2piece forged billet wheel rated at 3200#. M/t alcoa is a 1 piece hot forged wheel rated at 3000#.