Air Hammers

[rbattelle]

I'm in the market for an air hammer. I want something as powerful as $100-$200 (or less) can buy. Air consumption rate is of no concern. Most important is something with as much force as possible.



So far I've looked at the IR 121 (remarkably cheap!). McMaster-Carr item number 58955A68 has a longer stroke (which McMaster claims indicates more power) for only $60.



I could really use some advice.



On edit:

Chicago Pneumatic... cheap.



Bigger CP... much more expensive ($280).



Another monster.



Seriously considering Snap-On PH3050.





Ryan

 

[WDixon27]

i have the older version of the snap on listed and it kicks butt, not much is more annoying then a wimpy air hammer

 

[rbattelle]

Well, I lost this auction. The PH3050 ended up going for $173, and I didn't want to pay that much from Ebay.



I'll keep watching...



The CP 715 looks nice (cheap, too).



Ryan

 

[rbattelle]

Okay, I'm really confused here. I've read a couple things that say for more power, get a longer stroke length and/or fewer blows per minute.



So a CP715 has a stroke of 3. 5" and 2100 BPM - $50. CP says it's "the most powerful hammer in its class". Heavy duty hammer.



But a CP716 has a stroke of 2. 28" and 3500 BPM and goes for $80. It's also 1 lb ligher than the CP715. Why is it more expensive than the 715? Which one is really more powerful?



The CP715 has a longer stroke and fewer BPM than the Snap-on PH3050, but the Snap-on is $290.



Ryan

 

[bmoeller]

I have a CP hammer. Don't recall the model # at the moment. Works quite well. I also bought a quick-change chuck (didn't come with one). The spring retainer was a stupid idea and a pain to use.

 

[WDixon27]

the quick change chuck is a absolute must, turns it into a real tool

I have a CP hammer. Don't recall the model # at the moment. Works quite well. I also bought a quick-change chuck (didn't come with one). The spring retainer was a stupid idea and a pain to use.

 

[cojhl2]

Seems to me if you want a air hammer to "hammer" and not just chisel and rattle, you must have a heavy hammer. It's a conservation of momentum thing.



I will be surprised if any of these will get the hub bearing off your pickup easier than a regular ole hammer.

 

[Dl5treez]

I have a Chicago Pneumatic CP717. The big one with the . 498 chuck.



Based on experience with this hammer, other large . 498 hammers, and the larger versions of the smaller . 401 hammer, I'd say that if you can afford it, step up to the big . 498s. They are much more powerful and last longer.



The bits are readily available from Grey Pneumatic--a set of the standard . 498 bits runs about $75 and the quick-change chuck is about $60.



The . 498 hammers aren't cheap, but the extra $100-200 or so to get one, IMHO, is well worth it.



Another good source for quality air hammers, and air tools period, is Taylor Pneumatic Tool Co. They sell mostly through aviation supply shops. Brown Tool is who they recommend, but you can find their air tools lots of other places, even on eBay.



FYI a lot of the bigger hammers are called 'rivet hammers' in the aviation industry. I had a Taylor 7x at one time that used a spool valve for more precise trigger control... . you could nearly idle it :-laf ... . sweet unit, too bad it got stolen. Has a 3/4" piston with over a 5" stroke---big power.



Dan-

 

[rbattelle]

Thanks for all the advice, guys. I can't tell you how much I value the opinions of the people on this site.



Dan, I looked closely at the CP717 but I just can't afford it right now. After much debate, I decided to go with the CP715. I made this decision based on 3 things: 3/4" bore, 3. 5" stroke, and $60 for a kit. Plus I think it's shorter overall than the 717, which should help for working in tight places (and it seems like it's always a tight place).



I hope I get it soon, and I hope I made a good decision.



Ryan

 

[Dl5treez]

The 715 is a good hammer, too.



My tool opinion is skewed based on working in heavy industry/mechanical environments, and using my tools to earn a living... ... probably should clarify that more often.



A 717 is overkill for restoring old bandmills. Nice project, btw.

 

[rbattelle]

A 717 is overkill for restoring old bandmills. Nice project, btw.

Thanks, that means a lot! But this hammer is for removing my front hubs, which are welded into the knuckles. The bandsaw, having been designed and built in 1941 to an obviously far-superior specification, has no need of such a brutal contrivance as an air hammer. Unlike the Dodge, it was designed by men who not only knew what they were doing, but actually intended that the machine be reparable.



Ryan

[Ouch! Can you tell I'm a little annoyed by my hub problem? :-laf ]

 

[bmoeller]

Could try a little bit of C4 on the hubs. :-laf

 

[Dl5treez]

Thanks, that means a lot! But this hammer is for removing my front hubs, which are welded into the knuckles. The bandsaw, having been designed and built in 1941 to an obviously far-superior specification, has no need of such a brutal contrivance as an air hammer. Unlike the Dodge, it was designed by men who not only knew what they were doing, but actually intended that the machine be reparable.



Ryan

[Ouch! Can you tell I'm a little annoyed by my hub problem? :-laf ]

LOL, I feel your pain... ... part of the reason my signature says what is says in regards to a truck... but we'll overlook that for the time being.



Something you can try that might just end up negating the need for the air hammer all together:



If you haven't already, take the tie rod loose from the knuckle so it's easier to move around. (Once you get the nut off, if the tie rod is stuck in the knuckle, whack the knuckle hard with a hammer a few times and the tie rod should come right out. )



Go to the hardware store and buy two 14mm x 1. 5 x 120mm metric (duh) bolts. 10. 9 grade preferred--you'll need the strength.



Screw the bolts in diagonally into the holes that the 12 point bolts came out of, and smack them alternately, HARD, with the biggest hammer you can swing under control. Be careful not to KO your speed sensor if you've got 4WABS.



If everything goes right, your hub should be off after a half dozen or so hard hits.



Just might work for you... ... does for me.



If it does, buy the hammer anyways---can't have enough tools. :-laf

 

[y-knot]

I'm not a big fan of Air Tools, at one time they were the ****t, but now days there are just to many nice electric and battery powered tools to bother with the air tools. It's so much nicer to not have the air hose leash.

But if I were to buy a air hammer, I would simply go to Sear and buy the best Craftsmen air tool you can afford. They will always take it back when something goes wrong, so you are covered.

 

[Dl5treez]

I'm not a big fan of Air Tools, at one time they were the ****t, but now days there are just to many nice electric and battery powered tools to bother with the air tools. It's so much nicer to not have the air hose leash.

But if I were to buy a air hammer, I would simply go to Sear and buy the best Craftsmen air tool you can afford. They will always take it back when something goes wrong, so you are covered.

Craftsman air tools have a 1 year warranty.



If someone could build me a cordless impact wrench with 1,600 ft/lb of torque capability--and didn't have a 40 pound battery--or an impact hammer with enough snoot to knock track pins out of a D8, I'd buy two. Until then, I'll keep my drawer full of air tools.

 

[rbattelle]

Well, I tried the 715 today. It's pretty nice! Seems to have lots of power, for such a small package.



Unfortunately, I might as well have spit at the hubs I used it on - it would've been more effective. Cojhl2 was right - the air hammer simply didn't have enough kinetic energy to pound my hubs off. It took 2 hours with a 7-ton puller, acetylene, and a 14-lb sledge.



But, as Dl5treez points out, it's always nice to get a new tool!



Ryan

 

[cojhl2]

Every project requires at least one new tool,, regardless if it is used or not!!



Glad you finally got it off Ryan. .