Air Horn Setup Components

[ProMac1K]

I've been pondering installing a new set of horns on my truck for awhile and finally think i'm ready for it. Got a month to work on projects before I move away for a new job, and managed to save a decent amount of money to fund for some projects. Trouble is i'm not really sure what's all needed. I can think of a tank, horns, lines, some sort of solenoid (?), and a switch. What else is needed? I hate to sound rude, but I wouldn't mind some advice on putting a kit together. I'm looking at getting some grovers, not sure though. Also thought about mounting a decent sized tank where the spare tire would go, that is just a thought that just ran through my head. Also, what about' the dollar amount for a setup?

 

[SRadke]

You've got a good list going there. Don't forget a compressor. If you intend to use a small, inexpensive compressor look at the Thomas line. I think mine is a 215 in my air ride setup. It works well with a 2. 5 gallon tank and will only run you $200-250. Solenoids are available through Grainger. Get a 3/8", two way, normally non-passing valve and be sure it is 12 volt dc. 3/8 plastic tubing, similar to air brake like is very easy to work with and fittings are not hard to come by at a hose and fitting shop. Best of luck.



-Scott

 

[IC Smoke]

fittings fittings fittings!!! they will make you go nuts unless you know what youre doing!!! I got all my stuff from a local big rig bone yard. (except fittings/hose/compressor) you can see that I mounted the tank outside of the frame, it fits perfet between the bed frame supports and I just had to enlarge 2 holes and drill 2 more so it worked out great. As of now they arnt hooked up but everything is mounted. Tonight they should be working! I got my compressor off Ebay for 20 bucks, 110lb shut off 10. 00 (ebay seller as well) so I will now have onboard air



Tank- free

Pair of grovers- 20. 00

Compressor - 30. 00

"air brake line" 4. 00

Fittings- 20. 00

Electronic valve 30. 00



Valve is from a truck shop as well as 20' of 1/4" Air Brake Line, Fittings from around the house and Lowes



*link is of all the horns that I previously posted*

http://www.tdr1.com/forums/showpost.php?p=1175990&postcount=67

 

[AggieJustin]

IColeman, which compressor is that?

 

[ProMac1K]

Thanks for the reply's guys!



I was thinking... ... is their a way to run the horns off of the factory horn circuit? Or, is a lanyard operation possible on these pickups? I guess what is confusing me is the operation of the horns. Is the "solenoid", like I referred to, the same thing as the air valve. Is their a control on the horn, or is it just an air inlet? I'm picturing DC going to the valve, which sends air through a line to the horn. Is this correct?



Looks like I should be able to fund this, providing I find a compressor for the right price or use a higher volume of air capacity instead of a compressor. How many blasts do you figure for an "X" gallon tank?



Thanks Guys!!

 

[SRadke]

The solenoid is just an electronic valve. It will open and close to control airflow to the horns. If it's open, they're blowing. You could plumb in a manual valve in the cab if you want, that's just more plumbing.



How many blows per gallon depends on the horn you get. Some use much more air that others. The truck horns use realtively little... . Grovers, significantly more. A real train horn uses a HUGE volume.



You could control it off the factory horn with a simple relay, that would be no big deal.



-Scott

 

[ProMac1K]

Yeah, I was thinking a relay would have to come into play somewhere when using the factory circuit. I hate to ask, but how would that be wired/plumbed when using the stock circuit? :-laf Sorry, but i'm a fuel injection tech... ... . don't know a lot about electrical work.



I'm looking at going with the Grover 1030 dual-connected organtone horns. They are more than the 1609's, ~$140 instead of ~$45, but IMO sounded more like a big-rig horn (longer unit & wider flare).



I'll have to take some time and look at the wiring to the factory horn(s). Maybe a switch or safety switch should be used and put inline.



-Trever

 

[IC Smoke]

12V DC AIR COMPRESSOR HADLEY 850 12VDC



The solinoid I have says that it cant handle past 125psi and Blue-Beast has hooked his straight up to his factory horns. Dont forget if you get low on air and you disconnect your factory horns youre left with silence!! hahah. I have mine all hooked up, and the compressor works awesome! takes a little while to fill but it still works great! Ive got to head back out to finish wiring it now. woohoo!!!!



Ian

 

[ProMac1K]

Hey Ian,



How's the wiring going?



-Trever

 

[Gypsyman]

TMaas,



I just added pictures of my tanks, compressor, and horns to the PRXB folder in my readers rigs. Might give you a few more ideas.



Richard

 

[RJOL]

Try this guy on eBay: http://search.ebay.com/_W0QQfgtpZ1QQfrppZ25QQsassZdanelboone2



I've bought my Thomas compressor, and pressure switches from him, for my last two CTD horn setups. Very reasonable.



If you have access to Harbor Freight (they have local stores, and sell online) you can pick up a tank for under $20. It will fit between the frame rail and the outer skin on the bed. Here is the one I used: http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=41712



If you've never wired one of these, get someone who has and have him show, or explain it. It's really not that hard. I'd wire the pump through an accessory 12 volt source. That way, if something comes loose, your pump will only run with the key "on. " The horn button should be wired through a constant hot source. That way it will work, as long as you have air.



I use 3/8" air hose for all my connections. It's cheap, available everywhere, and the fittings are easy to find.



Don't scrimp on the electronic solenoid. If you get a cheap one, it will either leak, fail, or not pass enough air through it for a good horn or multi horn setup. It you can get one with a 3/8" pass through, that's better. Here is where I got my last one: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/e...item=7965319277&category=6763&sspagename=WDVW



Have fun... It's a great project and worth the time and effort...

 

[HeavyHauler]

Rickson Truck sells the entire kits for an Air Horn setup. This is on my To-Do list as well.



http://www.ricksontruck.com

 

[ProMac1K]

Thanks for the excellent help Rick!! Thanks everyone for the replies and help! Let's keep this thread going, maybe with some more info and/or install pics.



There are two more things that i'm still unsure about. Wiring the solenoid (air valve) into the system to be able to use the factory horn power and a splitter switch to switch between the factory and the air horns (how does the relay tie in and what does it do?), and how to control the amount of air the compressor puts out. Another thing, what can a guy use for brackets to hold the tank on? Is it all custom made?



Thanks again everyone!



-Trever

 

[RJOL]

There are two more things that i'm still unsure about. Wiring the solenoid (air valve) into the system to be able to use the factory horn power and a splitter switch to switch between the factory and the air horns (how does the relay tie in and what does it do?), and how to control the amount of air the compressor puts out. Another thing, what can a guy use for brackets to hold the tank on? Is it all custom made?



Thanks again everyone!



-Trever

Trever... I suppose you could use a SPDT two way switch to select either the OEM horn or the air horn. The way I see this is that you would cut the 12V wire going to the horn. Then you would route that wire (from the truck steering wheel horn) back to the SPDT (Single Pole Double Throw) switch and put it on the center pole. Then you would route a wire from either the top or bottom pole of the SPDT switch, back to the OEM horn. The other pole, on the SPDT would be routed to the air horn solenoid. Throwing the switch one way would power the OEM horn, the other way would power the air horn.



You control the amount of air in the tank using a pressure solenoid. I'd look for one with a range of around 80-120psi (on at 80... off at 120). You don't need to regulate the air to the horn. In fact, for a big horn, or multi horn you want both pressure and volume (with volume being more important). That's why I recommend a horn solenoid that has a 3/8" fitting that is straight through. It will give you plenty of air to the horn.



The brackets are mostly custom made. I have a brother that is a professional welder and he welded a bracket to the tank I got from Harbor Freight. This take is mounted under the bed (passenger side) using the bed cross members as the attach point. You will have to just figure this one out.



The air pump is mounted under the rear passenger floorboard at the side wall. This area is double walled, so you can use some self drilling machine screws to mount it there.



The air pressure and air horn solenoids are mounted on the air hose, in series, with the horn solenoid screwed into the sidewall.



The air Horn (24") is mounted forward of the solenoids (just under the front passenger floorboard) on the same sidewall (under the rocker panels). These rocker panels are an excellent place to run wires back from the dash area. You can drill a hold in them and run the wires down through them. If you look under your truck (at least on the 3rd gens) you will see some black tape over several holes in the rocker panel. Any one of these can be pulled for access to the panel.



I will try to get some pictures of this, but I can't promise when I will get around to it.



I'm sure there are a million ways to do this project, but that's how I did it...

 

[GAmes]

I used a compressor from an 85 Caddy. Horns are on the roof with a pull chain over my rt shoulder.

 

[IC Smoke]

Try this guy on eBay: http://search.ebay.com/_W0QQfgtpZ1Q...assZdanelboone2

I purchased my compressor from him, Great guy!!!!



The wiring su*ks! I had to throw it all on just in time to leave for Central Michigan University road trip. It was a blast though!!! people look around expecting a semi to be honkin... . nope



Ian

 

[RJOL]

Trever...



Took some pictures of the horn install. If you go to my "Reader's Rig" and click on "2005 CTD 3500" you will see the tank and componets. Starting from the rear of the truck, all componets are mounted on the passenger side. The tank is mounted under the bed (to the bed frame rails). All other componets are mounted to the rocker cavity under the passenger side. In front of the tank is the Thomas air pump, the pressure gauge, and not pictured is the pressure switch. It is mounted in series, on the air hose, just in front of the pressure gauge. Next is the horn solenoid. The wiring for all of this come through the cavity, below the passenger rocker panel, and out through the taped up holes. In front of the horn solenoid is the 24" air horn. Again, it is monted on the rocker cavity. The silver brackets you see are the running board brackets. It's tough to get good pictures of this install, but I hope this helps...

 

[C.]

A lanyard type valve can be used indstead of a solenoid valve.



I mounted a Grover 1022 behind the bumper. It is plumbed with 1/4" plastic lines to a hand operated valve mounted to the A pillar behind the plastic cover. I drilled a hole through the cover then attached a wire to operate (pull) the horn.



Also I have an engine driven compressor, opposed to an electric.



I used a Kilby on board air kit with a York AC compressor.

 

[Got Smoke?]

A lanyard type valve can be used indstead of a solenoid valve.



I mounted a Grover 1022 behind the bumper. It is plumbed with 1/4" plastic lines to a hand operated valve mounted to the A pillar behind the plastic cover. I drilled a hole through the cover then attached a wire to operate (pull) the horn.



Also I have an engine driven compressor, opposed to an electric.



I used a Kilby on board air kit with a York AC compressor.

Anyway you can get pics of all this, I'm sure most of the members would like to see it, myself included.

 

[C.]

Here are a couple pics of a manual valve on the A pillar.