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Air Lift

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Sunnybrook 5ers

I ordered a set of air lift bags today, they look to be pretty easy to install. Anybody done it reecently and had an problems with the install?
 
Put a set on my first gen this year. It was very easy. 2nd gen truck shouldn't be much more difficult. Good instructions come with them. They make my 3\4 ton feel like a 2 ton. Be sure to let the air out after towing, they make the ride a lot rougher if you don't. You'll probably have to let it out anyway to get the ball off the toung. No more sag, always a level pull.
 
Preleeguy

Since I don't have the info yet, do I need to have the frame jacked up and axel hanging down for the install?

Thanks, Jim
 
Easiest way is to jack up the body 'till the wheels are just off the ground and put jack stands under frame, then remove the rear wheels. (good time for tire rotation!) Remove the inner fender liner to get at the frame for drilling. Also be careful about drilling thru wiring/brake lines on the inside of the frame.



DO NOT mount air bags above the helper spring pak, there is not enough compression clearance. Remove the helper spring pak if you're going with air bags.



When you drill the holes into the frame, get the bracket mounted as far up as you can, so that you don't bottom out on the bag brackets only.



You'll have to rig up a spacer on the center mount hole to push the inner fender liner outboard, so that it doesn't rub a hole into the side of the bag.



Got all this info after watching/asking at the dealer that mounted mine.
 
Aircompressor, remote, control setup works great

I installed a Air Lift kit on a friends Quadcab Shortbed 2500 after removing the factory overloads. He really liked the towing and handling improvement as his 5th wheel has a 2700lb hitch weight. What he didn't like was adjusting the air pressure up and down between towing and empty. I then installed the newest single gauge, twin needle, remote kit and Air Lift's new air compressor for him. Expensive but works great and is a quality, easily installed kit. He says the remote is a must if you care about the ride quality. May have to add this to my Christmas list, listening Santa??
 
Roger Rodbolt, Is it that much of a pain to adjust the basic rig. Isn't it just like adding or subtracting air from a tire? Or is the valve in a hard place to access? Can't be much harder than airing my duels, I hope.
 
Jim,



I have Air Lift 5000s on my truck to carry the big Lance camper. I have them mounted on top of the aux. springs. You'll need the aux springs to help support the load. On the dually, there is no plastic fender liner so it's not a problem.



Jack up the truck as stated above, use the jack stands, and remove the rear wheel for best access. Install the air line termination under the front part of the truck bed so you can get to them with the Lance on board to air them up. I run 50-55 PSI with the Lance and the aux springs just touch the frame brackets. Unloaded, I run 5 PSI.



If you need more info or photos--send me an e-mail.



Bill
 
JWhitcomb,



Yes it is like is just like adding or subtracting air from a really SMALL tire. It's doable with regular shop air but is hard to get the pressure even side to side. If you regulated the air to a lower pressure it should prevent the gross over/under cycles.



We mounted the air fill valves in the rear bumper, to the left and right of the license plate. Easy to access and up away from road slush and mud.



The remote kit is really nice, you can try different pressures while towing, or with different pavement conditions, but like so many things, you won't miss it if you haven't experienced it!! ;) :)
 
"Small wheel", good graphic example Roger. I will just run manual but I can see the appeal of the in cab kit. Always had the idea of a tail gater deterent that makes use of a compresser, the in cab kit would fit into that. However I imagine it would just get me arrested or worse so it will remain just an idea. Thanks for the info. Jim
 
I have the filler lines mounted inside of the fuel filler door. Keeps them nice and clean plus you don't have to lean over to adjust the pressure. Use an inexpensive emergency tire inflater to fill the bags. Then adjust the final pressure with a tire gauge that has a bleeder. It only takes a minute or so. I wish they made an auto inflater for the rear tires. Going between 50 and 80 psi is much more of a hassle than filling and bleeding the airbags. Especially since it is getting so hard to find stations with real high pressure air hoses instead of those 50 cent per 2 minutes of air jokes.
 
I installed mine also, They are just great. The filling and deflating is not much a problem since I carry a small air compressor. The only thing that hasn't been mentioned thus far is (a) you should measure the distance from the underside of the fender to center of hub before anything else is done. That way you can use that figure to inflate them with a load. After a while, you will know how many pounds to put in. I run 60-65 psi to keep it level.



(b) Make sure you put mounting bolts in every hole (4) in top bracket, even if you have to supply extra bolts. I didn't, and when I hit a big pothole the 2 bolts supplied sheared off and one end of the bracket forcefulloy entered the bed of the truck:eek: :mad: The only thing hurt was my pride and a hole about the size of the tip of little finger in my new bed; however it could have been much worse!!!! That is 8 bolts per side.



I inflate after hooking up so you don't have to lift 5er so high, and deflate before raising the trailer off the hitch for same reason.

It really isn't that difficult, and I found the instructions pertty good. Have fun



George
 
Lee,

Great idea with the fill valves in the fuel

door. :) A regulator or adjustable popoff valve on a home/shop air compressor with a locking air chuck makes changing tire pressures a snap. Set it and the tire pressure will be within a pound or so on each tire, even if you walk away.
 
Airlift is good!

Gents:



I installed my Super Airlifts on top of the helper spings, as allowed in directions. I planned as emergency backup if an airbag failed, I could deflate the other one and still operate the vehicle. Without the factory overloads, I'd be dead in the water. They work real good running with my 15K lb 5th wheel or empty. Matched with Rancho RS 9000s, a perfect match.



Something most folks neglect: I lengthened my load proportioning valve arm. This gives me stronger rear brakes when I'm leveled out towing 5th wheel.



Wiredawg
 
did I mess Up?

When I put my air bags in I could see no reason for two fill valves,so I tied the 2 lines together so they fill the same with not checking. Does anyone see a reason not to do this? So far I haven't had any problems with it set up this way.
 
Opps

Preleeguy,



Sorry to say that by using one line you defeat a large portion of the air lift benefits. Could be dangerous!! As a load shifts or you corner sharply the unloaded airbag pushes up and robs the "working" airbag of it's pressure. Your one fill setup has connected the airbags. They need separate lines to work independantly.
 
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independent sytems

I have had airlifts for seven years and without independent systems I could not level out my truck with camper installed. Have to carry 15 lbs more in right side to level load. Also I had to reinforce the bottom mount to carry the load without bending. once I reinforced them they are great. I also recommend leaving the overloaded installed. My overloads never reach the stops. I am thinking about designing new stops so the over loads carry a little weight. My 945 Lance is a little heavey even on a 3500.
 
Air bags

Hey Wiredawg and Lee Weber



I see you guys both have air bags and the rancho 9000. I thought if I got the rancho 9000 I would not need the air bags.

I have both. I took the air bags off and I am putting the rancho 9000 on the truck on Sat.
 
Thinking of purchasing AIR LIFT bags from Camping World. Just bought a new 5er and have rear sag. Pros and con appreciated.





'98. 5 2500 auto 354 60 gal Aero tank(wouldn't be without)





'01 32' Alpenlite 2200 kb. tounge wt. 12'000 total
 
Cobra:



I need both the airbags and the RS9000s. The Airbags increase load capacity and/or level out your load. The shocks dampen the bounce. I have my shocks set at 3 front, 1 rear and 5 front, 5 rear loaded with my 5th wheel. Once, I hitched up 5th wheel and forgot to change setting on shocks. What a terrible ride. Truck was bouncing like a ball. I realized I forgot to change shock settings, and what a difference.



Plntmgr:



I don't see any cons, only pros. Makes your vehicle much more flexible in terms of ride quality and load stability. I highly recommend the Super Airlifts and the RS9000s.



All, happy trails, Wiredawg
 
Cobra -- Yeah, I need them both also. Without the airbags I can't drive over 45 mph without the truck tracking all over the road. I need to raise the back end in order to put enough weight of the front axle in order to steer properly. I forget to air up the bags and/or re-set the shocks on a regular basis. Seems to happen more often the older I get. The ride reminds me that I need them both with a >10K GVW.
 
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