Air lines in a shop, what would you use?

[vciesielski]

My vote is for copper. PVC posses an electrical hazard in the (wood) shop in question.

 

[CumminsAholic]

Why would pvc cause an electrical hazard? It doesn't get a static charge, it's just air going thru it. I don't understand what the problem would be.

Corey

 

[Matt400]

One other precaution about PVC-

I never leave the shop un-attended, as in overnight without turning off the main valve where my metal line transitions to PVC.

Imagine a shop fire burning through a compressed air line Pressurized air blowing on the flames.

 

[FJfonda]

Why would pvc cause an electrical hazard? It doesn't get a static charge, it's just air going thru it. I don't understand what the problem would be.

Corey

In dust collection applications there were "rumors" of PVC installations creating a static electricity buildup that eventually ignited the dust in the system. One of the woodworking mags tested the theory and they could not recreate the static charge that was sufficient to ignite the dust collection system.

For compressed air --- there is enough moisture in the system to reduce the static electricity buildup.

 

[nickleinonen]

In dust collection applications there were "rumors" of PVC installations creating a static electricity buildup that eventually ignited the dust in the system. One of the woodworking mags tested the theory and they could not recreate the static charge that was sufficient to ignite the dust collection system.

For compressed air --- there is enough moisture in the system to reduce the static electricity buildup.

if you ground it every few ft, it will be ok with static. . most dust collection systems using plastic pipe have grounding systems on them [at the blast gates and elbows... ]

 

[y-knot]

PVC has no hidden dangers, electical or otherwise, what was you trying to say?

No one should leave the main line on all the time, it makes no sense to cycle the air compressor continuously while no one is at the shop or using it. Yes everyone has leaks, I have never seen a system that didn't, so the air compressor will cycle when the main is left on.

What is the bit about compressed air and a fire?? I don't get it, do you really think your solder with it's 450° melting temp will stay put during a fire?? Lets just say I don't think so.



I use a electric solenoid (valve) on the main just as it exists from the tank, and I then can use a switch to turn on or off the main. I run 3 switches, one at the service door, one at the lift and one at the welding area. This way I am always close to the switch, and I can easyaly turn the system on or off. I also install a big red indicator lamp next to the switch, wich helps remind me that it is on.

People can run there air lines in what ever they wish, but there is really know clear advantage or dis-advantage as far as material choose goes. One option I forgot too mention is the Aluminum/vinyl coated slip pipe. This system is held together with slick nylon compression fittings, and featured on many of the TV shows like HP TV, Trucks, and 2 guys garage. It comes in many colors, but ocean blue seems to be the most popular, you just cut the pipe with a pipe cutter or bandsaw and lock the pipe into the fittings. It is a very fast system to put in, looks great when installed and can be re-configured later if you want to change things around. Of coarse it cost alot, almost as much as the rigid pipe system, but much easier to install, and seals better then any of them. They use o-rings in all the fittings, and have a wide variety of attachments and options. Like they say, it only takes money.

 

[Matt400]

No one should leave the main line on all the time, it makes no sense to cycle the air compressor continuously while no one is at the shop or using it.

True, its just some will turn the compressor power off and not the main line.

What is the bit about compressed air and a fire?? I don't get it, do you really think your solder with it's 450° melting temp will stay put during a fire??

No but obviously the PVC will melt much faster and where it will let loose with flame near by, the hard line might hold depending the severity of the fire.

 

[KWentling]

I have seen a PVC airline break. It was 1' line that was put in an addition to our machine shop. Line pressure was 120 psi. It broke about 4' above a man door. Fortunatly no one was in the area when it broke. There were shards of PVC that flew over 100'. The line had been service about 5 years at the time. Needless to say all the PVC was replaced with black pipe like the rest of the shop. Absolutely not worth the risk.



Kim

 

[GBobbitt]

I'm thinking about using DOT approved heavy truck plastic air line to plumb mine. Not sure what size to use. It's fairly flexible and the conditions it has to endure under a truck are a lot more severe than in my shop. If it springs a leak it is easy to fix and there is no danger from flying shrapnel.

 

[Matt400]

I'm thinking about using DOT approved heavy truck plastic air line to plumb mine.

I would think you couldn't find big enough line. I run 1/2" from the compressor which is too small and not a very good idea. A better way is 3/4" throughout and then your hoses connected to that.

The 3/4" will act as a tank and when air flows through it from the compressors tank it will be less restricted than what I use.

 

["Mad Max"]

I did the whole shop in PVC. I have a better chance of losing a finger with my angle grinder than having the PVC explode. Plastic is strong stuff, flexible, and incredibly easy to run and modify with future mods. Just shield any areas that are 'high traffic areas' with something. My air lines run up the wall, behind the compressor, along the lower edge of the loft, and up the roof, down the other side, to the retractable 50' reel. There's no way to bump into it. I think if you take the proper precautions PVC will be fine.

Each own's preference.

Plus, I'm never in the shop without safety glasses - just a standard practice 100% of the time now. So, I ain't skeered.

- M2

 

[Dl5treez]

"plastic" pipe for air lines

Does it work? Yes.



Is it safe? Depends on how it is installed, the type used, and what it is subjected to.



Is it to code? Kinda. Read on:

http://www.osha.gov/dts/hib/hib_data/hib19880520.html



We have copper, black iron, CPVC (sshh don't tell) and IPEX Duraplus/Duratec at the plant. All of them work fine.

 

[Forrest Nearing]

90% of the sites I work at run copper... when I first saw it, it seemed odd ot me because I'd always seen steel pipe in shops I'd worked at in the past, but now Copper seems to me to be the way to go. affordable, corrosion resistant, etc.

 

[Dl5treez]

90% of the sites I work at run copper... when I first saw it, it seemed odd ot me because I'd always seen steel pipe in shops I'd worked at in the past, but now Copper seems to me to be the way to go. affordable, corrosion resistant, etc.

Easy to tie in to the existing lines. Trying to splice routes into black iron pipe runs is a royal PITA. Copper is great, so is the IPEX stuff.

 

[Jrork]

Another one for PVC. Had it in my old garage for over 18years before I moved. Never a problem. I did use the thicker schedule stuff and not so much as a leak. I did keep the air pressure down around 100psi at the tool and the tank had a pop off of 125psi.

I'll probably do the same in the new shop when I get around to it unless I win the lotto and can swing the fancy stuff

 

[Hohn]

All DAMP air is going to condensate, the metal pipe takes the mosture out to a drain before it hits your airtools. Just a fact of life when you compress damp air it makes it hot and then when it hits the cold steel it condenses the water right out early-a good thing.

A good thing until that steel pipe rusts from inside out from this water.

A good compromise is just plumb the first 6 feet or so with heavy black pipe, and incline it so the condensate accumulates at one point where you can install a sputter valve (condensate drain).

After this, you can plumb the rest with Copper (preferably) or PVC (perfectly safe when properly done).

If you live in a humid area, I'd actually consider an inline H2O separator with a bottom drain and some kind of replaceable dessicant cartridge.

Then you with an inline oiler for the lines that will see tools only.

On a line that might see paint use, install a high-efficiency particulate filter, and use a gun-mount filter as well.

jmo

 

[rivercat]

Definitly an option,

But I prefer the black steel I use now. It rises off the compressor in 2" with a boiler drain at the bottom. It then reduces to 1. 5" as a trunk line all the way the length of the shop on a slight incline 2-3". Then the 3/4" drop lines come off to the sides, off the top of the trunk line with a tee and a elbow with the tee pointing up and that gives the elevation till it 90s down to to the couplers around the shop. Works well only when sanding or blow-gunning or couniuously drawing air do I ever get but a few drops of water out of the boiler valves at the bottom of the drop pipes the one at the bottom of the 2" line gets a few onces a week.

This way there no way short of a hand grenade that will ever make it leak or burst.

The pvc I had before would start as a hiss and then if you have a big enough tank and plenty of pressure it can blow one little joint and shatter a whole run not to mention the flying debis have several rips in my roof insulation and dents in the tin above it not to mention shattered 8' bulbs everywhere.

Thank God that the shop was empty of cars and people as I was out to lunch and came back to the carnage.

 

[starkmr]

Working in Alaska's oilfield, I can tell you that on new construction, instrument air and plant air are all being done in galvanized main runs with stainless steel tubing drops. It is kind of expensive to run SS tubing but the corrosion resistance is incredible. A lot of the existing construction used steel pipe in the past and it has held up fairly well for 30 years.



There is an incredible amount of engineering talent in the oilfields these days and I'm not even going to try to out guess them. I would go with Galvanized all the way and forget the SS tubing for personal use.



my . 02



Mike

 

[Matt400]

Just an FYI... I priced out 80 feet of 3/4" and 15 fittings of this stuff and it was 300. 00

 

[Alphacowboy]

Working in Alaska's oilfield, I can tell you that on new construction, instrument air and plant air are all being done in galvanized main runs with stainless steel tubing drops. It is kind of expensive to run SS tubing but the corrosion resistance is incredible. A lot of the existing construction used steel pipe in the past and it has held up fairly well for 30 years.



There is an incredible amount of engineering talent in the oilfields these days and I'm not even going to try to out guess them. I would go with Galvanized all the way and forget the SS tubing for personal use.



my . 02



Mike

Galvanized is BAD for air tools! the galvanization flakes off and ends up in your tools and can damage them. That stuff eats o-rings in pnumatic nailers!



My dad still hasnt done anything yet... hes thinking about building a new house and shop... again. . lol.