Air power tool connector type

[PRout]

Just picked up a couple 6x24" air tanks, a bunch of 3/8 hose & fittings to start hooking it up.



Going to mount them underneath, and want to run the hose to just above the back license plate where I want to mount 2 fittings. One fitting like a valve stem for inflating the tanks at a gas station (will try to find one from an old airshock setup), and a quick disconnect fitting for hooking up the 50' flexible hose.



Im just wondering which style connector is more popular. The "Industrial" type, or the "Automotive" type?



I bought Industrial, but thinking maybe should have gone the other route to keep things compatible w/ the rest of the world.



I noticed that most air-tools dont come w/ the fitting, and you use whatever you need. Is this true?



Which type would YOU use?

 

[Un-Hemi]

Milton type M. Seems to be most common, but like everything else, opinions will vary.



You're correct about the power tools. Most come with a 1/4" NPT, either male or female, and allow you to adapt to whatever quick-disconnect style is appropriate.



Tom

 

[illflem]

I use Automotive type C, but that doesn't mean anything. I use brass connectors, steel ones tend to rust and leak. Grainger sells a connector that's supposed to work with all combinations, I've never tried it though. I know that OHSA made professional shops change over to a connector that you have to twist to disconnect, seems like this would be the most popular nowadays. Don't waste too much time scamming up a Schrader (tire) valve, most hardware and plumbing supplies sell ones with 1/8 or 1/4 pipe thread on the other end for around $3. I use a double male air hose adaptor to fill my portable tank, much faster and easier than a tire valve but a tire fitting is necessary for filling up at a gas station. Rather than mess with the extra plumbing it may be easier to make an air hose fitting to tire valve fitting adaptor.

When I was in Mexico some Mexicans carried an airhose with a tire chuck on both ends. That way they could "borrow" air from the three good tires or a piece of heavy equipment parked alongside the road to fill a low tire. I got a kick out of this poor man's air compressor.

 

[GSchlegel]

Shortshift,



Just a quick thought - most air tools operate best on 90psi. I'm not sure what psi you'll get at a "gas station", but probably not much more than 90psi. A "truck stop" would probably go to 125psi, if you're real lucky they will occassionally go to 175psi. I wish I had some of my old spec books and I could tell you how many cubic feet of 90psi air you have stored at 125psi. My guess is less than a minute's worth on a 1/2" impact.



There are some sharp members on this site that can correct me if I'm wrong.



Gene

 

[illflem]

Found out when the power was off once that the 30 gallon tank on my shop compressor wasn't even enough to 1/2" impact remove the all the lug nuts on one wheel before the pressure was so low it wouldn't turn the last nut.

 

[The patriot]

I have one of those sears 33 gallon 5 hp compressors. Not much reserve. I have it setup to turn off at 135 psi.

I saw the other day that they now have compressors that go to 175 psi!!! Guess I'll have to get one soon.

Shortshift, to answer your question, I'm using the "M" type.

Eric

 

[Rotty]

OSHA likes you to run 90 psi or less, but up to 125 will work for most all air tools. 175 psi is great but it does wear out the air tool fast. Keep them oiled regularly, Like every time you use them.

Be careful with anything under pressure, If a line breaks stuff happen real fast. :--) I have always used the standard automotive connectors. Don't use pvc pipe to connect tanks or hoses, use steel or copper pipe. If pvc breaks, it shatters and send out pieces like schraptnel, which punches nice holes in everything. Been there done that. Good luck.

 

['956Wheel]

Industrial is thee choice of quick connect in the machine shop as well as what most capernters use on there nail guns. On the female quick connect, get the kind that won't disconnect when the hose is dragged.



Mike

 

[GSchlegel]

'956Wheel,



You're right, the Industrial coupling is by far the most common followed by ARO and Parker. Hanson (there may be others) makes a female coupler that mates to all three types. Plastic pipe is an absolute no-no, I had a customer that had a 10' capped section come loose. It was a rocket, went through a concrete block wall!



Shortshift,



Your best bet is to store air at as high a pressure as you can (less than the lowest rating of any of your components) and then regulate it out at 90psi. You could get a small regulator, put a male plug in the inlet port and a female coupler in the outlet. Keep it safe in the truck and bring it out only when needed - then plug it into the coupler on your truck when needed. Also get a plugged plug to leave in the coupler so as to keep the dirt out.



Good luck



Gene

 

[The patriot]

Originally posted by Rotty



Be careful with anything under pressure, If a line breaks stuff happen real fast. :--) I have always used the standard automotive connectors. Don't use pvc pipe to connect tanks or hoses, use steel or copper pipe. If pvc breaks, it shatters and send out pieces like schraptnel, which punches nice holes in everything. Been there done that. Good luck.

I have my garage done in 3/8" black iron pipe. :laf:

Eric

 

[LarryB]

No matter what type connector and schrader valve you use it will leak sooner or later. Put a 1/4" ball valve in the line too and avoid the rude surprise of no air when you absolutely need it.



I have been using my A/C compressor plumbed as an air compressor for some time. I carry a 1/2" drive rattle gun with me too. Surprising how much volume that little compressor will put out with the Cummins on "high idle"

 

['956Wheel]

LarryB, HUH? Please explain how you keep the refrigerant isolated from the compressed air. Or, did you give up your A/C?



Mike

 

[LarryB]

Oh! Sorry. I don't have A/C in my conversion so I just use the A/C pump that came with the engine as an air compressor.



Sorry for the confusion.

Larry

 

[QRTRHRS]

Speaking about air pipe safety, the latest Fine Homebuilding has a good commentary about which pipe to use in the question and answer section. The editor's choice? Black iron. Why? Strong, easy to put together, leak free joints, an according to the author, condenses moisture out of the air better.

 

[Big P]

I don't remember Milton's letter codes for their fittings, but my experience is that the larger style fitting work best. To identify the ones I'm talking about look inside the female fitting, the good ones have six ball bearings to hold the male side in. The smaller less expensive ones have 3-4 bearings and tend to leak because it allows too much movement inside the fitting.

 

[Wayne M.]

I gotta have my air horns back!

In the shop, type "M" here too. It seems like the popular nipple. It has been in almost every shop I've worked in except for one which used the long one- "L" I think. I believe check valves should be used to isolate the fill lines from the tank. I just picked up a 10"X30" air tank myself and was getting ready to do something similar. I am looking for a small electric compressor- like from a Hadley air horn deal to keep the air up.

If and when I build my shop someday, I will use Black pipe. Don't forget Synflex type air brake tubing. That is good stuff for quickie work in a shop, and the only thing to use on a vehicle, just use the proper fittings with it.