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Airdog Pressure?

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Airdog owners

Trac-rite in a 11.5AAM .... anyone done it ?

I am looking at installing an Airdog. I know the pressure should be fine to the

VP44, but I was just wondering what kind if pressure I could expect?













01'2500 4x4, S&B air intake, 4" turbo back exhaust, 305/70r16 Procomp Xterrains, M/T classic lock, Edge Comp, Triple pillar pod boost, fuel, EGT gauges, more to come.
 
FWIW I have an airdog on each of two trucks. I see between 16 and 17psi constant, and as the temps get colder, the pressure seems to go up slightly rather than down.

Mishkaya
 
Parish,

I was told by AirDog's Tech. person that they are supposed to be preset to 15 psi. at idle. Mine was slightly low at 13 psi. idle. He instructed me to remove the return line going back to your tank filler neck and then the fitting going into the AirDog. Under the fitting is a spring and a rubber ball relief valve. He said I could either put a 1/4" washer between the spring and fitting, like a shim, or he could send me a new spring. I tried the 1/4" washer first and that worked fine. That gave me 16 psi. @ idle.

Regards, Mike.
 
Kenny is the man to talk to at AirDog. IMHO don't bother with the low-pressure light switch and light set up. Order the special elbow with the tap for your fuel pressure gage that feeds the VP-44. If you don't know what this is call and ask Kenny.

Pay attention on how you dress the DC control wires down the frame.

Be sure to remove all the paint on the bottom of the bed strut where you mount the AirDog mounting bracket. Also, remove the paint from the AirDog mounting bracket where it will come into contact with the bed strut.

DC grounding is very important if you want no DC hash noise from the DC motor.

The unit is built well but, the paint and powder coating of the motor to block assembly causes major RF noise from 1. 5 MHz all the way to 400Mhz due to poor DC ground characteristics of the build assembly.



My AirDog is now dead silent due to added efforts..... something every military communications engineer would do to make a bullet-proof rig for serious work involving transportation rig and communications platform combination.



William
 
I am going to have to install something soon, truck died today, LP I think.



Could one not just run a ground wire to a good bolt? I do not want to scrape paint off of things in this salt bath of a state. (MN)
 
Schlickenmeyer said:
I am going to have to install something soon, truck died today, LP I think.



Could one not just run a ground wire to a good bolt? I do not want to scrape paint off of things in this salt bath of a state. (MN)





I'm in the same boat (rust belt). What I do is use a heavy coat of neversieze on all my drilled holes and grounding points... that keeps the rust to a minimum.



steved
 
The paint removal I did was done with a fine rotary brush. I taped off the area so as not to exceed the required contact foot print of the bed strut and the AirDog mounting plate. It was a quick effort to do this. Once done, I polished the metal with triple-ought (000) steel wool. Using NO-LOX as a dressing between the two adjoined plates will assure integrity of a good DC ground for "RF hash" reasons and rust prevention of the metal to metal contact area. It's really not that hard to do.

The NO-LOX is the same stuff electricians use to join house wiring at a splice joint to prevent corrosion of the electrical wires. There are other products that do the same thing. It's green colored greasy stuff with shiny metallic particulates disbursed in the vehicle of the slime. It actually conducts current. Any hardware store will have it in the electric department. Properly applied it will stop rust and has great tenacity to stay put and not migrate.



DC grounding at this level is not required to allow your DC motor to spin but, it does help rid the noise generated by the brushes of the motor. RF silencing is more involved but, you must have an excellent DC ground to start with in order to continue solid quieting techniques.



William
 
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