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Alcoas on a 3500 dually

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Hi All,



I've just purchased a set of Alcoa LTS rims for my '99 3500 QC 4x4. Like some other dually owners, I was concerned about the inability to rotate tires easily (short of dismounting and remounting on different rims). I was considering purchasing a second pair of front LTS rims (polished outside) to put on the inside duals, but I wanted to do some measuring before I spend the $$.



Anyway, the wheels came and yesterday I did some measuring mouting different configurations on the back of my truck. Here are some numbers that will probably be of interest:



Flange thickness:

Steel - 3/8"

Alcoa - 1/2"



Length of stud remaining w/wheels mounted:

Steel/Steel - 1. 50"

Alcoa/Steel - 1. 25"

Alcoa/Alcoa - 1"



I'm still debating whether or not to use a pair of dual alloys in the back, given how much less stud is available. :confused:



As for lug nuts, Alcoa uses a gold plated lug nut, then puts a polished cap over it. I wasn't too keen on that, and found that McGard makes a MUCH nicer solution for the Alcoa, which I'm going to be using - p/n 69500. You can purchase these from Summit Racing for $142. 39 plus shipping. They usually have to special order them, which takes a few weeks, but it's well worth it IMHO. They're guaranteed not to rust, and they look more like a big truck lug nut. :D :D Be aware that Alcoa does state that you should NOT use a chome plated lug nut that has plating on the seating surface (the McGard's don't)



As for the Alcoa's, I highly recommend Southwest Wheel . I've order wheels from them before and they're always great to deal with, and I've yet to beat their prices. If you buy a set of 4 Alcoa LTS dually wheels p/n 160271 (front) and 160272 (rear) their price is $137. 05/each. For those of you that want the Classic, their price is $134. 36/each p/n 160291 and 160292. This is cheaper than most places want for the crappy imitation Eagles (which are cast, not forged like the Alcoa's). One thing to be aware of, is that these rims will supposedly only work on 1994 - 1999 model year trucks, Alcoa says on the boxes not to mount them on 2000 - 2001 trucks, probably because of the offset difference. For those of you with newer trucks, you may want to call Southwest Wheel and see when/if Alcoa will come out with a wheel for your truck.



As far as looks, you can't even compare the wheel skins to these; what a night and day difference over stock :cool: :cool: . The polishing looks great, and the non-polished side wouldn't look bad if it was on the outside (might even be able to have it polished). The other advantage is these wheels are super light, but are stronger than the stock steel wheels :D. I HIGHLY recommend these, if 19. 5's are out of your budget, or if you're running 3. 55's like me.



Lastly, the center caps will have to be purchased individually. Front cap p/n is 0016911 and the rear p/n is 0016912. The front's are ~$9/each and the rear's are ~$12/each. Alcoa also offers an accessory kit, but this kit includes both the Alcoa lug nuts and center caps; if you go the McGard route, you don't need this kit.



Once summer is over, I'm planning to purchase 7 BFG A/T's in a 235/85R16E. Price at Big O is $134/each... times 7... OUCH!! :eek: For those of you that are thinking about bigger tires, but are concerned about rubbing, National Tire & Wheel makes a wheel spacer to fit wider tires. However, I don't like the design since they don't replace the exiting studs, they use the originals to mount the inside wheel and spacer, then a seperate set to mount the outside wheel. Yesterday, I looked at a later model Chebby 3500 4x4 in a parking lot with a 6" lift and 305/85R16 swampers :D mounted on a set of Eagle's, using this spacer (no rubbing problems), but way too wide for a 6" rim IMO. Still looked pretty cool though! I just wish BFG made the A/T in a 255/85R16...
 
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thanks Mark !

Wow, you've really done your homework, Mark, there's so much valuable information in your post, I'm printing it to save it...

Unfortunately, I have a 2001... so guess I'll be waiting a while longer on custom wheels. I'll call up the people you mentioned, though, and ask about avaliablity for newer trucks...
 
If I had a dually, I'd be all over the 19. 5's... Pricey, but they look AWESOME. Now if I only had a bigger garage... :D



I'm looking into Alcoas for my 2500, but have only found 16x7's so far... Guess I need to keep diggin...
 
Don't Go DUAL ALUMINIUM!!

Strongly reccomend against aluminium BACK TO BACK!! A little thing caused by dissimilar metals makes this gawd awfull (Corrosive/electrolosis) kinda stuffn that will pit the everlovin' Ba&esus out of your allredy expensive investment. I saw it first hand with a local dually owner whose rims I wanted to buy until we went to take 'em off. THEY WILL WELD THEMSELVES TOGETHER!! + I think alcoa does not have the proper mating surfaces to begin with on the hub part of the rim to mate with each other. I could be wrong but check into this a little further. like I said I was gonna buy 'em until they were to be taken off. Buthed each outer two rims to get them off with heat and a prybar.



<hr>

Truck Bio:

Y2K+1 3500 4X4 Quad Cab 4:10:1 LSD



Powerpacked (4 inch exhaust,High ram intake,wastgate mod to 38 psi,otto +guages,K&N) , Jakit's Front End Leveling Kit with 255/85R16 BFG http://www.bfgoodrichtires.com/ M/T's Custom Rhino Liner (see Tool Man's truck feature)DeeZee Goodies, WAAG Side tubes with kick~outs Mopar Performance accessories-Sill plates-hitch cover-cargo aux lamp'n'Power, Hadley air systems 150 psi comp and air storage. Diesel Transmission Technology's ~93%TC~&~VB , TC Saver, Mag-Hytec'sDouble Deep Trans pan,DD1's+Van Aken+Autometer Guages. #ad
Check out Tool's Stuff~>Here!<~ <h4>N. E Next Meet info Click ~~>THIS<~~</h4>
 
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Toolman,



The dissimilar metal issue would actually be more of an issue with an alloy and steel wheel mixed, depending on the metal composition. However, in this particular case, the issue you mentioned, isn't the reason Alcoa is against it. Alcoa officially stated that dual alloys should not be mounted on the back because the studs are not long enough. Simple as that.



However, running two alloys is done on semi's and the like, as well as the Dual Designs 19. 5 Alcoa conversion, so...



I've also run aluminum wheel spacers on cars before, and never had any trouble with the 2 units bonding together (I've seen this with aluminum brake hats in road racing though). I could see this happening if it wasn't a pure aluminum cast...



-mark
 
?????//??~?

Why did it take an act of god to remove 'em. once they came off (Together I might add) They still would not seperate. Amazing. Actually now that I think of it... . Could Wheel cleaner cause a corrosive condition between TWO aluminium surfaces? keep in mind the rims WERE not pitted at all they looked factory fresh (Until the removal process) :rolleyes:
 
I would try brushing some anti-seize on the 2 butted surfaces if bonding is a problem. It works very well in preventing disimilar metal reactions and would probably work well if there was a threat of the 2 alluminum wheels being Siametically joined by friction.



Sorry guys, it's time for me to go into the bedroom and get Siametically joined with the ole lady. May the force be with me. :D
 
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What do I know from Duallys?

I do know that if you install a VERY thin spacer or washer between the two rims and it is plastic or rubber or sillicone you would stop any electrolitic reaction. In point of fact any dielectric material would work. I have had the same type of problem with Bronz winches mounted on steel hulled boats. I used scrap plastic from a broken shower floor and it was only about 9 mills thick.

Oh yea! Go eazy doing that horezontal bop thing. If you throw your back out you'll have to drive an automatic. , like me. :eek: :eek: :D
 
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