Attention: TDR Forum Junkies I have a really long story that I'll try to make short below about my 04. 5 2500 4x4. Mileage is just a shade over 90k at the time this took place.
Does anyone have the proper alignment specs (camber, castor, toe) for the 2004 2500 4x4? I would like my shop to get it right the second time around, and also would like to have them give me a print out of what they set it to.
Story:
First, the right front wheel joint (U-joint) began making some pretty nasty noises, and was providing feedback into the wheel during a tight turn. We found that one of the needle bearings had completely failed, shed some needles, and was just wobbling around inside the cap.
I bought a replacement for ~$60, and attempted to do myself, only to find I couldn't get the hub out of the steering knuckle. So, off to the shop, where $800 later I had a new hub, new upper and lower ball joints, and a new wheel joint. On the drive home I still heard the noise, and found that the left side was also bad.
A few days and another $800 later, the left side was replaced. During the replacement I went with precision U-joints, and Moog Balljoints. The uppers are the camber/castor adjust.
I took it to my local alignment shop Friday for an alignment before heading on a weekend road trip. Lets just say that it was probably the worst alignment I've had, and one of the trickiest vehicles to drive on the interstate. It actually felt worse than it did when I got it back the day before after having all the parts replaced.
We're talking going around right hand on-ramps and having to either not steer (truck pulls right) or steer slightly left. Also, lane changes were exciting, as as soon as the truck began to change lanes, it would rocket off in that direction. To me, this seems to indicate that the toe is set too far out, but not sure. It almost feels like a vehicle with a worn tie rod or steering link, but I have good feedback and response the entire time, and when holding the wheel about 10degress left, it actually drives pretty straight, instead of continuing to wander.
After returning home, I decided to check out a few things. With the steering wheel in its centered location, visually the drivers side front tire appears to have excessive camber (to leans out, don't remember if that is + or -). I took a small level and put it across the hub studs to see if it was just an optical illusion. I compared all 4 wheels. RF = Perfectly plumb. RR and LR had the bubble just a shade off center, but touching the level line (could just be my driveway). Finally, the LF that looked way off was. The bubble was all the way to the end of the tube, in the direction that I thought it was.
Second, the right front appears to be turned out to the right just a bit. It is hard to quantify, but I did take a few measurements from inside tread grooves front and rear. Front is spot on 64", and rear is 63 7/8", indicating just a smidge of toe out, which I think is good.
Anyhow... off to the shop today at lunch to see if they can get it right this time.
Does anyone have the proper alignment specs (camber, castor, toe) for the 2004 2500 4x4? I would like my shop to get it right the second time around, and also would like to have them give me a print out of what they set it to.
Story:
First, the right front wheel joint (U-joint) began making some pretty nasty noises, and was providing feedback into the wheel during a tight turn. We found that one of the needle bearings had completely failed, shed some needles, and was just wobbling around inside the cap.
I bought a replacement for ~$60, and attempted to do myself, only to find I couldn't get the hub out of the steering knuckle. So, off to the shop, where $800 later I had a new hub, new upper and lower ball joints, and a new wheel joint. On the drive home I still heard the noise, and found that the left side was also bad.
A few days and another $800 later, the left side was replaced. During the replacement I went with precision U-joints, and Moog Balljoints. The uppers are the camber/castor adjust.
I took it to my local alignment shop Friday for an alignment before heading on a weekend road trip. Lets just say that it was probably the worst alignment I've had, and one of the trickiest vehicles to drive on the interstate. It actually felt worse than it did when I got it back the day before after having all the parts replaced.
We're talking going around right hand on-ramps and having to either not steer (truck pulls right) or steer slightly left. Also, lane changes were exciting, as as soon as the truck began to change lanes, it would rocket off in that direction. To me, this seems to indicate that the toe is set too far out, but not sure. It almost feels like a vehicle with a worn tie rod or steering link, but I have good feedback and response the entire time, and when holding the wheel about 10degress left, it actually drives pretty straight, instead of continuing to wander.
After returning home, I decided to check out a few things. With the steering wheel in its centered location, visually the drivers side front tire appears to have excessive camber (to leans out, don't remember if that is + or -). I took a small level and put it across the hub studs to see if it was just an optical illusion. I compared all 4 wheels. RF = Perfectly plumb. RR and LR had the bubble just a shade off center, but touching the level line (could just be my driveway). Finally, the LF that looked way off was. The bubble was all the way to the end of the tube, in the direction that I thought it was.
Second, the right front appears to be turned out to the right just a bit. It is hard to quantify, but I did take a few measurements from inside tread grooves front and rear. Front is spot on 64", and rear is 63 7/8", indicating just a smidge of toe out, which I think is good.
Anyhow... off to the shop today at lunch to see if they can get it right this time.
