2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission alignment

[Turbo Thom]

I've tried all the front alignments I know of and still it ain't right. The right front tire seems to be wearing good but the left one is really crazy. The tire is wearing sort of round across the top but on the inside edge it's wearing on a sharp angle. I need new tires but hate to put them on with this problem. Do y'all think it's camber or caster? There is not a real "pull" to speak of but the wear is all wrong. Do any of you frontend experts have any idea what I can do to this thing before I spend on 6 new tires?



Thanks.



. . Preston. .

 

[budctdca]

well you didn't say if it was 4wd or 2wd, big difference. the 4x4's can olny adjust the toe from the factory, it requires eccentric ball joints from an aftermarket source such as NAPA to correct camber. the sharp angle sounds like feathering and usually that is attributed tho the toe being out.

 

[AKAMAC]

Sounds like you have axle push.

Did the shop do a 4 wheel alignment?

 

[Turbo Thom]

On the 4X4, I didn't state it cause it's was in my sig.



On the front to back alignment, I don't know, but I will find out.



. . Preston. .

 

[jrobinson2]

Sounds like mostly toe-in to me, caster usually doesn't cause tire wear, too much caster and the steering will be heavy and really return to center with authority, too little caster will result in wandering and poor return to center. Camber can cause tire wear but usually also a pull to one side. On trucks with a "Y" steering linkage (all except 98-99) a heavy bumper pull trailer that raises the front can change toe quite a bit and wear the outside edges of the front tires.



Jared

 

[jrobinson2]

the 4x4's can only adjust the toe from the factory, it requires eccentric ball joints from an aftermarket source such as NAPA to correct camber.

This is not quite accurate and seems to be spread by lazy alighnment shops



All the 2nd gen 4x4's can adjust caster, caster is adjusted with eccentrics at the front of the lower control arms.



The Dana 44 axles used in the 1500 and 2500 LD trucks don't adjust camber without special parts, but every second gen 4x4 HD with the Dana 60 I have looked at has been fully adjustable for camber. The camber is adjustable from the factory with offset bushings at the upper ball joints, bushings are widely available from Dodge and many aftermarket sources.



Jared

 

[budctdca]

This is not quite accurate and seems to be spread by lazy alighnment shops



All the 2nd gen 4x4's can adjust caster, caster is adjusted with eccentrics at the front of the lower control arms.



The Dana 44 axles used in the 1500 and 2500 LD trucks don't adjust camber without special parts, but every second gen 4x4 HD with the Dana 60 I have looked at has been fully adjustable for camber. The camber is adjustable from the factory with offset bushings at the upper ball joints, bushings are widely available from Dodge and many aftermarket sources.



Jared

I have a 97 2500 4x4, and the previous owner had an eccentric upper ball joint installed on the right hand side, but the drivers side does not have a similar ball joint. The last place I got it aligned at said that you can only adjust toe, but the conviniently overlooked that ball joint and i didn't know about it till recently. I work at an alignment shop and none of my techs have seen that lower control arm eccentric, nor have i. I do agree that lazy alignment shops don't want to do the extra work because it is difficult. Whats the deal with the lower ball joints?

 

[jrobinson2]

Pictures of the caster adjusters are in post #27 of this thread

https://www.turbodieselregister.com/forums/showthread.php?t=119767



Jared

 

[jrobinson2]

I don't understand your question about the lower ball joints??



At some point Dodge changed the design of the ball joints, maybe 2000 models and newer, camber adjustment may be different on those trucks??



I posted this in another thread about camber adjusters:



The Dana 44 in the 1500 and light duty 2500 is non adjustable, the Dana 60 in the 2500 HD and 3500 has the bushings. You don't adjust the ball joint you install a different bushing. Look under the nut for the upper ball joint, the round thing with a split on one side is the bushing. I found these on the Federal Mogul site. Federal Mogul

View: Federal Mogul Full

Vehicle: 1995 DODGE TRUCK RAM 2500 PICKUP 6-360 5. 9L Dsl

Lookup Type: Group - Suspension Parts

Camber/Caster Bushing



NEW DESIGN

0 DEGREE PLUS OR MINUS K8958 94-99 1

Camber/Caster Bushing

NEW DESIGN

1/4 DEGREE PLUS OR MINUS K8959 94-99 1

Camber/Caster Bushing

NEW DESIGN

1/2 DEGREE PLUS OR MINUS K8960 94-99 1

Camber/Caster Bushing

NEW DESIGN

3/4 DEGREE PLUS OR MINUS K8961 94-99 1

Camber/Caster Bushing

NEW DESIGN

1 DEGREE PLUS OR MINUS K8962 94-99 1

Camber/Caster Bushing

NEW DESIGN

1 1/4 DEGREES PLUS OR MINUS K8963 94-99 1

Camber/Caster Bushing

NEW DESIGN

1 1/2 DEGREES PLUS OR MINUS K8964 94-99 1

Camber/Caster Bushing

NEW DESIGN

1 3/4 DEGREES PLUS OR MINUS K8965 94-99 1

Camber/Caster Bushing

NEW DESIGN

2 DEGREES PLUS OR MINUS K8966 94-99 1

Camber/Caster Bushing

NEW DESIGN

2 1/4 DEGREES PLUS OR MINUS K8967 94-99 1

Camber/Caster Bushing

NEW DESIGN

2 1/2 DEGREES PLUS OR MINUS K8968 94-99 1

Camber/Caster Bushing

NEW DESIGN

2 3/4 DEGREES PLUS OR MINUS K8969 94-99 1



Here's the Ingalls link Ingalls engineering



There are also adjustable ball joints available from Ingalls engineering and possibly others.

Jared

 

[jkeyes]

another possibility for the uneven tire wear may be in the tire its self. I have one that no matter where on the truck I put it it "heal-toes" really bad.



Jason

 

[Willys]

Preston, did you ever get this fixed? I had a bad(and loose) hub/bearing assembly that was causing some odd tire wear.

 

[pcarlson]

Preston, what did you find out? Usually if you don't have a pull to the left and your left front tire is feathering on the inside edge, then it's toe, front/rear alignment or worn parts on the left front. Sounds like it wasn't a four wheel alignment though.



Toe and caster are easily adjusted by an alignment shop that knows how to adjust the Dodge. Do a search for the prefered spec's, they do make a difference and have it aligned to them. Don't worry about your camber unless it's out of spec's, but then you probably would have worn out ball joints if that were the case.



my $. 015

 

[Turbo Thom]

Well, took it to a shop I go to and they said the toe was out. Did their adjustment and said it still had a little pull to the right , but that I would have to change the ball joint to change anything else . It does still have a slight pull to the right, but the tires are not wearing the same. Before I took it in I got under the truck and turned everything under there that had anything to do with alignment. They had to align it now. The tech came out and commented on how bad it was. I said "I know".



I ask about the 4 wheel alignment and they said the disc are always put on to check that. That's all I know. Right or wrong, you know as much as me. I don't know where to go now. They don't seem to know much about the 3500 front end. I just don't know.



. . Preston. .

 

[SCClockDr]

I feel your pain!



When ever I am confronted with a seemingly impossible frontend issue I go to the big boys. (Semi tractor alignment shop) I did this with my 94 Cargo Ram C&C and it don't pull no more!!!



Another option is to visit the local stock car pits and find the guy that sets up the winning chassis. That person should have the skill to accomplish almost anything, if willing.



I am aware this is probably the most expensive approach, but several unsuccessful attempts add up fast.

 

[Willys]

I reread the first post, and I think I have a better idea of what you mean. The center of the tire is wearing fairly normal, but the inner tread blocks are wearing faster on the front edge than the back, giving them a profile like the gears on a ratchet strap or come-along?



Jack that side up, grab the tire at 12 and 6, and wobble it up and down. If there is play, it could be the ball joints or the hub, or loose hub bolts, or a loose axle nut(that is under the hub cap) You should be able to tell which one if you look behind the tire. Its hard to do this if the tires is taken off, you have the leverage with the tire on tell move it more.



Have you ever replaced any parts on the front end? I had to do an almost complete rebuild by 180k, but I probably drive more rough roads/off-road than you, just the nature of my line of work. My control arm bushings look to be about shot(dry rot?), I'll probably replace those soon, and a slightly sloppy TRE, and everything should be new under mine.



I'll bet that BHB(big honkin bumper) is probably adding to some of the front end wear, its just a trade-off for protection I suppose. I'm wondering how much these things can affect caster on our trucks. I don't regret putting it on one bit though.



Edit: Is your steering linkage the Y or T style?

 

[Turbo Thom]

The bumpers the way I finish um weighs 142 lbs. I wouldn't think that would be enough to effect it. May be.



I've checked the bearings and ball joints. Tight as can be. I have replaced one track bar and upper TRE. Thats it for the front end in 330K miles and 10 years. The track bar needs replacing now. Both front tires are dead on 60 lbs of air. I will say when I am in the left lane of the interstate, the pull is not as much there. A lot straighter.



This is not something it has always done. It's just doing it now.



. . Preston. .

 

[Willys]

Any luck figuring this out, Preston?

 

[Turbo Thom]

All I've done is new tires. The wear is better and the pulls is much less. When the fiver is hooked on, the front is just great.



I really don't know what the deal is.



. . Preston. .