Archived Alright...Allright.. I need HELP!!!

[RichardButler]

O K Ready Gentlemen?

Truck runs strong "sometimes", and ran a 15. 3 @ 1/4 mile in 2 wheel drive on oversized MT/R tires in ATCO N. J. Good stuff But, the truck sounds and feels like it is "misfiring" now and again, under normal truck load, and with any Trailers I have, up hill down hill,whenever,very randomly though, and not necessarily under heavy acceleration either. It sometimes corrects itself under heavy pedal. My buddy noticed first that white smoke was visibly coming out of the exhaust when it "chugs". Not to get off topic, but If you take 2 or 3 plug wires off of a fuel injected 350 chevy, it may idle normally, but then under power feel exactly like this problem. And it isn't necessarily all the time with out the Lucas oil fuel additive I have been using to help remedy. At random times, no specific RPM, in residential traffic, or on the highway, it does "IT". I am loosin it... ... Also idles erratically and white smokes every time you start it. If it starts at all in the summer, I suspect that the pre heater does not stay on long enough due to how long the Wait to Start light stays on, if sometimes at all, though when it is cold it starts right up, I think because it seems the light stays on longer. Plugged in overnight or not. Ha haaa figure that one out. HUH? Lemme tell ya if diesel burned the truck would be flaming right now boy.

OK Specs. Ready? 99 Ram 3500 24v Auto. 4x4 QC, Banks TLC kit w/gauges 4"exh . etc. dd3's, my own super secret R&D trans w/ billet Single disc T/C, I have ended the lift pump problem by replacing the piece of ^%#^$, system w/ a Fuel Air Seperator System in the rear wheel well of the truck,close to the tank, from Enterprise Deisel Performance over in Ohio. Problem also occured before with stock lift pump system, I have current PCM flashes, I converted from 3. 55 to 4. 10 and detroit lockers, front and rear, No more spun pinions with that set up. I am babbling but want you guys to get the whole picture, any tried and true recommendations for more power would be appreciated, I am addicted to blowing money on this thing and need a fix, Probably going to ohio to O-Ring the block and head and go for dual Turbo set up after installing a Triple disc T/C, and the tourqe commander, but any suggestions would be helpful. THank you guys so much for puttin up with this long winded message but there aren't any knowledgable people here in S. E. PA. that know anything about this truck, I am tired of telling the dealer about the TSB's and inherent problems that I already have come across. I have had every Problem that exists to these trucks. Shoot me please!!!! Thanks again, Rich Butler

 

[mmclaughlin]

I had kind of the same thing happen, but it only happened a couple of times (hasn't happened in about 3 months - knock on wood). I put a fuel guage in last week and have been monitoring it pretty closely. I've nothiced that when I run on a full tank of fuel, my fuel pressure stays right around 13 psi at 75mph. With anything less then a half tank I get between 11 and 12 - dependign on how cold it is. The times that I got the stumble (wasn't that bad) it was pretty cold out - so I thought that mybe I had water in my fuel. I pulled the filler and it was pretty clean - but the filter material was darker then what I expected it to be. Did a search here on the forms and saw something awile ago that it was a good indication that there were bio's living in my tank (ummm diesel). I guess what can happen is that the screen mesh that is in the fuel module in the tank can get clogged with this stuff and restrist fuel flow. My guess is that if you get a really cold day, water could collect on that mesh (from the bio's clogging it up) and amplify the problem. I've been meaning to pull my bed to get at the module, but I've been a little hesitant to do it myself. When you went with the FASS, did you keep your stock filler in-line, or did you by-pass it? Did you pull the module to take a look at it when you were hooking up the new pump? Once my pressure drops a little bit more, I'm going to break down and buy the FASS and remove that screen mesh in the module. I would guess that if you had the FASS and the stock filter, you really wouldn't need the screen in the tank, and since you would effectively have 3 bowls collecting fuel for you, you propably wouldn't have to worry about getting too much air in the lines because of fuel sloshing around - besides, doesn't the FASS claim to remove air from the fuel?



So what does all this mean? Check for codes - kind of sounds like a possible failing VP44. I would then check your fuel module to make sure it's clean. I'm guessing you have a fuel pressure guage, so just make sure your FASS system is working properly. Replace the fuel filters if you haven't already. Make sure all your fuel lines are intact. Good luck with it, and keep us posted on the status.

 

[MidwestMotorman]

Sounds like VP44 or lift pump trouble.

A 2 or 3 psi loss in fuel pressure indicates trouble mmclaughlin. A good lift pump will hold 14 psi constant. Is that pressure pre-filter? A 1 psi loss through the filter would make me change the fuel filter.

White smoke from the exhaust would be sign of lift pump trouble. White smoke on cold days (anything below 40*) is usually normal from a diesel. My 99 smoked white when the lift pump was going out. The pump worked intermittently and then failed completely. If your truck is bombed like that, Mr. Butler, I would assume you were running gauges and would know your fuel pressure. Maybe it is time to convert to a P-series injector pump for some serious power...

 

[RichardButler]

A P-series injector pump huh... the p-7100? Mechanical? whats that all about cause once bitten twice shy with this VP 44... . Also I had a thought about the screen in the tank should I drop the tank and pull it and inspect for life forms growing? I feel as if "it" happens more at lower fuel levels in the tank even though what prompted me to ask was the other day i had 7/8 of a tank and it did "IT" with my 12 ft. box trailer. I am pretty confident that the fuel system even the vp-44 is good because of the recent replacement and updated part numbers and a I just Know kind of feeling. And yes I have unfortunately Mech. gauges "tools" not part of the truck yet. Ya Ya I'll get to it. Too busy. But Fass has a connection for a remote gauge and will be used as soon as i get back near my shop in Pa. sometime this Century. Also i did bypass the original filter head and all, I am trying to figure it out because i now have dangling wires so to speak and every time it rains The "water in fuel" light comes on now, I suspect a short to ground on one of the dangling connections. And, I would'nt get rid of the screen in the tank , it is the first line of defense from heavy debris getting into the fass pump,mind you the filler neck is huge and open i have often thought that in a Three Stooges world I may loose a watch, My wedding ring, Mud Chunks from the fender etc.

 

[MidwestMotorman]

What do you mean by being "pretty cold" out? How cold? 0* to 10* may cause fuel to gell up and would definitely cause a fuel problem.

Another thought... Maybe your APPS or TPS, as it is more commonly caused, is acting up? Electrical sensors/switches like that can and will act up under cold temps. Others have reported similar idle and rpm troubles that cleared up under WOT. Until the truck was stuck at idle with no throttle response after the TPS went totally bad.

Back to the first post, the preheater will cycle on and off even if the engine is warm. Sensor is not attached to engine, but reads off of air temp.

Are you running any accessory electrical equipment that may be interferring with engine electronics?

Are you sure all of the fuel fittings are tight and you are not sucking in air?

Just some more food for thought...

 

[mmclaughlin]

In response to MidwestMotorman - I just changed out my fuel filter yesterday, and I'm seeing the same readings with a full tank and then 1/4 tank (about 1 to 2 psi difference), so I know it's not the filter that's causing the drop in fuel pressure. I know that it's not great fuel pressure readings I'm getting right now, but IMHO they are not so bad that I need to run out and get a new lift pump. My pump right now only has about 10k miles on it. I'm saving up right now for a new system, so when the reading start getting really bad, I'll be ready to drop the cash on the upgrade system.



RichardBultler, you can tap right off the VP44 to get your fuel pressure post-filter. That's where I check mine from. I had the same thing happen with "it" and it always happened with about 1/4 of a tank except once, when I had about 3/4 of a tank, and I was right next to the dealer when it happened, so I stopped by. The dealer wanted to keep the truck for a couple days, and I desided not to leave it, and I haven't had the problem since.



Keep us posted on how things work out.

 

[RichardButler]

Thanks guys...

as for midwestmotorman my temps out here in pa. are roughly 25 - 35 degrees when the truck runs like it should. Starts right up after preheater does its thing and so on. The air in the lines issue is what I thought at first for the longest time but now i feel it is a software controlled thing with whatever module or sensor that

turns the pre heater on. In other words can't I have the ecm flashed or something easy like that. Aren't there different setting for how long (or at all) the heater comes on for, from me to a guy in Alaska who's heater undoubtedly comes on for longer to get to ambient or stochiometric air temp. ? Here is some more info. this hard start condition I have been experiencing started only after ihad replaced the original "53" brazillian casting Block. could the dealer mechanic who put it in smacked one of the dd3 injectors putting the old head on the new short block? Causing this problem. I am fairly positive that the fuel system is tight because i built that Myself. Although at this point I'm ready to beleive anything. I am sure i am leaving more pertenant info. out but I have an overwhelming amount of work I have done to this truck. I am lost a little. Sometimes ready to forget it and buy an old S-10 and throw a 350 in it. You guys have any other problems than this let me know first Because i have already had it and know what I should of done because of Hind Sight. I may gat a tattoo that reads TSB... . Thanx again.

 

[RichardButler]

As for mmclaughlin you are so lucky that it hasn't happened again but I wonder what the hell "it" is That is making this happen. The FASS you mentioned earlier is the way to go in my educated opion and is something Chrysler should have charged a couple extra hundred dollars for at the table. Even the bosch guys I have talked to say the original Lift pump system is inferior. Clearly based on the amount of part number revisions from five star. Man it makes me cringe when stuff like this happens and there was a technology or a better fix out there at the time and nobody in corporate sees that when you build it right the first time people will stick with you. Who REALLY is able to afford a $40-55,000 truck every 2-3 years? Thats why I will be buried in this one after I do all The Research and Development to work out ALL the bugs in this truck... . Rich

 

[RichardButler]

Sorry... . Final note I am pullin the tank and gonna see if i can find any foriegn crap in there that may be hindering the fuel flow then I will let you know what I find so you guys dont run in to the same headache. Later

 

[csutton7]

first unplug the Banks kit and and see what happens---hook up a fuel pressure guage now--I'd do that before I pull the tank---how's is your pump wired--did you just extend the OEM wire to the new location or did you use a 30amp relay to power the pump triggered by the OEM pump wire---possibly either MAP or IAT sensor needs cleaning or replaced--chris

 

[RichardButler]

Thank you chris for your reply I will try testing or replacing either of those mentioned senors, I think I will try droppin the tank just to kinda preventatively maintain it. I have the lift so I might as well use it unless you know of some weird things to watch out for when droppin the tank..... While I have you what do you think i should do about gettin rid of the banks box or could I flash that with a different map? I am kinda locked into staying with the banks box ( ottomind ) cause the gauges in the piller route through the box, though that should'nt really keep me from acheiving more horsepower if a change is in order. Also I have ran the truck for a couple of days wiyhout the banks elec. hooked up and same thing????... . RichB

 

[mmclaughlin]

If you do drop the tank, let us know what you find...

 

[MidwestMotorman]

I forgot about that IAT sensor. That could very well be a major part in what you are experiencing. You can clean it or replace it. I think the dealer looks it up under "temperature sensor".

 

[RichardButler]

I;m going to see if thats it, then get back to you guys... .

Man that would be great if it would just run right for a while.

Rich

 

[RichardButler]

IAT = Intake Air Temp. sensor? Dealer where i only can get parts has not ONE clue... . Any help is needed... ... .....

 

[MidwestMotorman]

Do a search under "IAT sensor" and you will find more info than you can imagine. I think the sensor was fairly cheap, and it is also easy to clean. I believe it is at the rear left hand side of the head (on the driver's side). Something like 23mm wrench size.

 

[RichardButler]

thanx for the info. i'm on it right now.

Rich