Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Alternator - need help

[CDenton]

Lately when I start my pickup my voltage gauge takes forever for it to read that it is charging 14-volts. It will bring up a light that says check gauges, then finally it will start charging. I thought maybe it was a bad alternator. So i replaced the alternator on it with brand new one, still have same problem. I can't get it to call up any codes, not sure I am doing it right or not. The book says turn it on, turn it off, turn it on, turn it off, turn it on and it should read, not having any luck. Could it be a voltage regulator? Has anyone had this before or know what I can do to fix it? Thank you.

 

[KKeen]

Interested to see what anyone has to say. My truck is doing exactly what you described but I have not tried any trouble shooting yet. I have never been able to bring up codes on my truck either

 

[wb6tkr]

It's winter!!!!! Your manifold heaters draw a lot of current from the batteries and it takes a bit to bring them back up to 14 volts after the engine starts. You didn't say how long it took for the voltmeter to read 14 volts, but it should come up in a minute or so, and then as the heaters cycle, you will see the volt meter drop and come back up again. The check guages light is reacting to the lower voltage.

 

[CDenton]

thanks but the only problem w/that theory is, the low here is in the 40s to 50s most of the time the heater light never comes on. it's been doing it about a month or so.

 

[jhoughton]

You didn't say how old the batteries were. Also check all the connections and grounds. If I'm not mistaken the regulator is an iternal part of the alternator. Mine has done the same due to cold weather. But by your location that's not likely to be it. If I were to take a guess that it's the battery and it is quite discarged right after starting. Thus resulting in a high draw from the alternator causing your symptoms. Hope this helps. Jim

 

[CDenton]

the batteries are less than 2yrs old there caterpillar, I no the summers here are hard on them.

Thanks

 

[WestTN]

I don't think you can read the codes that way on a '98. And the wait to start light does not cycle with the intake heater grid. It is only a timer to allow sufficient warmup time before crasnking the engine.

 

[FourBarR]

You cant reads codes on 98. 5 without code reader. Alternator voltage is in the pcm not a seperate unit. dont think you have a problem, my 98. 5 has 4438067 kms and has always done that. When I start the red guge light comes on the volt meter is slow to to show increase in voltage. red light goes out after volts reach centre mark. hope this helps.

 

[Nate]

Mine has been doing it as well. Even when I leave work at night, the past few days it was pretty warm enough I didn't get the "wait to start" light even. Normally hasn't done this in the ~1. 5 I've had the truck. The check gauges light comes on and sometimes it will even chime.



Before that doing that, it was only charging around 11 volts. I ran it for 2 weeks like that since I didn't have time to fix it. The batteries tested fine, but the alternator showed weak.



I'm going to pull the alternator tomorrow and bring it down to the auto electric place and have them check it out. I can't afford to have it die out on me if I'm not near home.

 

[wb6tkr]

Regarding your grid heaters, I think the manual states "at below 63 drgrees, the heaters come on". I am assuming you are refering to the (wait to start) light when you first turn on the ignition. It does not cycle on and off with the heaters. How long have you had your truck? Mine has done that since new in 99. Good idea to check the battery cables and grounds, etc. Sounds like it is working normal, to me. The other posts gave some good advice.

 

[n7gxz]

You may also be seeing the effects of the brushes getting worn down and not have as good a contact on the slip rings. The brushes should be accessable from the back without having to remove it.



Kevin

 

[Brand-X]

Interesting every post with the same problem is a 98 24 valve truck my father lives in florida and had to replace his alt this past summer he put three in it to get rid of the same problem it is better but still slow to come up and never did it before the origanal alt failed... George

 

[metal tech]

Mine was doing the same thing. I found that the factory wiring had rubbed thru the insulation just enough on the alt case that at times it would cause the "check gages" light would come on. I had to run a finger along the wiring on the top back of the alt to feel this. AL

 

[C.Solomon]

My pickup does the same thing and it only happens in colder temps. I wouldn't make a big deal out of this at all. I think the reason the check gauges light comes on (just as it was stated before) is because of the grid heaters. Think about it, the split second your motor fires the grids kick on (below 63*) or something. So they will draw power just as the alt. starts to charge. It will take a few seconds for the alt. and batteries to catch up.



Even at 40* degrees your batteries are not at full cranking amps. The colder it is the weaker the charge on the battery. I don't care what you have for batteries cold temps will effect them.



So I wouln't go spending money or time on this problem.

If my pickup cranks over fast like it should I know my batteries and alt. are fine.

 

[BK]

My pickup does the same thing and it only happens in colder temps. I wouldn't make a big deal out of this at all. I think the reason the check gauges light comes on (just as it was stated before) is because of the grid heaters. Think about it, the split second your motor fires the grids kick on (below 63*) or something. So they will draw power just as the alt. starts to charge. It will take a few seconds for the alt. and batteries to catch up.



Even at 40* degrees your batteries are not at full cranking amps. The colder it is the weaker the charge on the battery. I don't care what you have for batteries cold temps will effect them.



So I wouln't go spending money or time on this problem.

If my pickup cranks over fast like it should I know my batteries and alt. are fine.

Yup, C. Solomon has it dead on.

The check engine light comes on when the grid cycles on and drags the voltage level down to a certain point. Once the grid cycles off, cause your engine/manifold is warming up, the volt meter will start to come back up as it charges the batteries.



Since the grid is on for a while in the cold, and yes even at 50degF, it's taking most of the current that would normally go to charing the batteries.

Once the engine warms up, and if it's 40deg or 50degs out, but not warmed up well, you will still having the heater grid cycle on, you can see your voltage guage drop and your headlights dim. Then when it cycles off the volt meter comes up even quicker , and the brightness of your lights comes up real quick too.



This is all real common operation once you get in the 50's and below.



At about 25degF, your battery is at about 1/2 capacity. It's a pretty linear line of capacity loss for all lead acid batteries from 75DegF to 25DegF, if I remember the charts right.



Plus at 50 or 40degs F it took more to crank your engine over... the oil does start to get thicker.



All these things are reasons why at 40DegF and lower, Dodge recommends you start plugging the truck in. It starts real fine, but life is much easier if the block and oil are a bit warmed up.