2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Alternator Output Wire Bad

[lesnessman]

While preparing to change out a suspected bad alternator, I discovered that the alternator output wire connection is bad. This is the wire that comes out of the rectangular molded plastic block that contains the field wires, ground, and this one. The connector on the end of the wire has broken off or corroded. Most of the original metal crimp from the connector is still on the wire. Attachment shows the end of the wire where it should connect to the back of the alternator.

This wire seems much more rigid than normal stranded wire, not sure if that's from age or environment. Also, there is very little slack in the wire for repairing with a new terminal end. The (B+)Terminal Insulator housing on the alternator is also at an angle that doesn't leave very much slack for a repair.

Any suggestions on repair or replacement? Can this wire be spliced? Run a completely new wire from Point A to B?

 

[DavidC]

Can you slit the metal with a Dremel type tool ?. If you can add to it you should use solder and heat shrink (a lot more permanent than a splice)

Dave

 

[lesnessman]

Thanks Dave, I wil give that a try. There is very little slack to work with, and this wire feels much more rigid than regular stranded wire. The nuts on the field wire connections are pretty rusted as well. I've been spraying them with PB Blast all day, hoping that I can get them off without breaking the studs on the alternator. Once they are off, will have a little more room to work on this.

 

[pgleavitt]

I ran into the same problem and found that if you remove the nut from the post that holds the plastic protector in place you can take the protector off and turn it over. You will see that it has a small plastic locating pin that keeps it in position. Remove that and it will turn any direction you want and can change the angle which will give you enough wire to chrimp new connector and still reach the post.

 

[Bob4x4]

The solder skills needed on that size cable may be above the avg do it your selfer.If it has been overheated already possibly due to a loose connection and arcing I would not solder to it

 

[lesnessman]

Thank you for the response. One quick follow up on the two field wires. The posts and nuts holding the field wires are also in pretty bad shape. I've worn the studs and nuts down to small nubs trying to get the nuts loose or break the studs off completely. Would it be a bad thing to splice two new wires in for the field connections? I know these are the wires that get modified when an external voltage regulator is installed.

 

[DavidC]

If it has to be done It is best done with this. Short of replacing the wire. Plenty of people solder the battery teminals and being an electrician for over 40 years I can tell you it is the best least prone to problems connection you can make short of cad welding.
http://www.amazon.com/s/?ie=UTF8&ke...ptwo=&hvqmt=b&hvdev=c&ref=pd_sl_61ftobsy1e_b#

Dave

 

[lesnessman]

Dave, thanks for the information. With the help of a small Dremel cutoff wheel, I managed to free the two field wire tabs from the clutches of the rusted studs and nuts, no splicing necessary, alternator replacement now required though. Probably would have been needed sooner or later anyway.

Took the advice from pgleavitt in the post above,, Cut off the little plastic locating pin on the alternator terminal insulator housing, a few degrees counterclockwise gives the wire a lot more slack. I've checked our local Napa and Advance Auto, looking for a replacement terminal, can't seem to fine one that accepts what looks like 4 guage or 6 guage wire and still fits inside the insulator housing. My wife stopped at the local Dodge dealer today, they gave her a nice heavy duty one, but it's just a little too big to fit inside the housing. Any suggestions on where to find one? I'd be more than willing to take the truck somewhere for this,, but not being able to readily locate the right terminal doesn't give me a lot of confidence that the repair shop down the road will have one either. The clearance inside this terminal housing seems rather disproportional to the size of the wire going into it.

 

[DavidC]

Dave, thanks for the information. With the help of a small Dremel cutoff wheel, I managed to free the two field wire tabs from the clutches of the rusted studs and nuts, no splicing necessary, alternator replacement now required though. Probably would have been needed sooner or later anyway.

Took the advice from pgleavitt in the post above,, Cut off the little plastic locating pin on the alternator terminal insulator housing, a few degrees counterclockwise gives the wire a lot more slack. I've checked our local Napa and Advance Auto, looking for a replacement terminal, can't seem to fine one that accepts what looks like 4 guage or 6 guage wire and still fits inside the insulator housing. My wife stopped at the local Dodge dealer today, they gave her a nice heavy duty one, but it's just a little too big to fit inside the housing. Any suggestions on where to find one? I'd be more than willing to take the truck somewhere for this,, but not being able to readily locate the right terminal doesn't give me a lot of confidence that the repair shop down the road will have one either. The clearance inside this terminal housing seems rather disproportional to the size of the wire going into it.

Glad to hear you saved it. As for the terminal end, don't laugh, Harbor Freight, not sure with Home Depot, Lowes. Maybe an automotive electrical shop. Can you grind the outside diameter down to fit inside ?. Maybe an Electrical supply house (if they have or will sell to you). Worst case find a rubber boot to go over the wire and ditch the plastic shield.

Dave

 

[Bob4x4]

Chineese terminals are junk.I would not use any on my truck

 

[pgleavitt]

I've got a couple of heavy duty terminals with small center holes that take large dia. wire from a car stereo shop. I think there for hooking up amps. If you do ditch the protector make sure you cover the terminal completely to avoid any chance of having it go to ground. If it does you may get lucky and only blow the 140amp alternator fuse and not waste your alternator. To cover the terminal you could use self fusing silicone tape. Love that stuff since I discovered it.

 

[DavidC]

You could look here also, they actually have dimensions
http://www.mcmaster.com/#ring-terminals/=s2wb1p

Dave

 

[fest3er]

Is there a dimension difference between metric and SAE lugs?

 

[DavidC]

I am sure there is and that is the obstacle that maybe overcome with some massaging with grinders etc.

Dave

 

[lesnessman]

Thanks to everyone who repsponded to this topic. I was able to get a good measurement of the diameter of the alternator stud and width of original terminal,, old alternator nut and stud were so rusty that the stud broke off on removal of old alternator. I would say that the stud size is 6mm, width of the terminal was around 12mm. Best I could do was a copper terminal lug, 1/4" stud size, 6ga wire. Terminal width of about 1/2".

Attached is a picture of the new terminal and new alternator top nut that secures the terminal. Also attached a picture of the terminal sitting upside down, on top of the alternator nut. It appears that there is a slight reduction in contact area around the stud hole vs. a terminal with 6mm stud size, if my metric converter is correct, about 1/64". I did notice that this new terminal is thicker than the original, hopefully this will help compensate for that 1/64".

Had to grind a very little bit of the sides off of this new terminal, just behind the alternator nut contact surface, so that it fit inside the housing. Terminal is crimped, wrapped the wire side of the terminal with a little bit of Scotch Super 33+ tape, gave it a nice snug fit inside the housing. All is good.

So by removing that plastic locator pin on the terminal housing, gained enough slack to crimp new terminal connector. Having the original terminal measurements helped me find the best replacement. Thanks again everyone for your help.