Alternator/ regulator frusturating!

[LNeshem]

I tried wiring in a regulator from an 85 dodge 1/2ton pickup. It did not have any markings as to what post is what (2 posts). It is a small flat regulator about 1/2 inch thick and probably 4 inches square. I hooked up awire from each post on the regulator to the 2 small posts on the alternator. Then ran a hot wire to 1 post on the regulator just guessing here cause Not labeled and someone told me it didn't matter what post?? It charged but seemed to be charging alot, 15. 5 volts. So quickly unhooked it and switched posts. Nothing not charging at all. Switched back to the way i had it first and Nothing, not charging at all this way either now?? I don't think anything burned no smoke or heat or smell? But now i can't get it to charge at all? For those of you that have successfully used an external regulator what kind did you use and what specific appliction was it for? Also did you use the black part that the factory has bolted onto the 2 small posts on the alternator and then has wires that exit that and go into the main wiring harness? By the way the engine is 99 24valve and it is in a chevy truck. Thank you in advance for any help!!

Lowell

 

[autoworld]

we use the stock (chev) alternator and relocate it with a bracket - much easier. sounds like you smoked it

dawna

 

[LNeshem]

That would be great if I had the stock chevy alternator! This is 69 chevy. What do you do about the serpinteen belt? Most chevy alternators I have seen use a 6 rib serpinteen and my cummins has an 8 rib. I have been thinking about going with a chevy alternator but to get one that is 105 amps seems like it is going to be expensive, and I am not sure if I can take the pulley off my alternator and put it on the chevy alt. ??? Otherwise I would be fine with building a couple brackets and putting a chevy alternator on it.

 

[autoworld]

well, what we do is build brackets for the stock alternator and AC. Then take and machine two cummins pulleys togeather creating double pulleys, one serpentine and one single belt. even tho the chev is 6 rib thats ok, lined up right, it won't walk around on the pulleys. the other thing we did on the last one (97 to 97chev) was to have an alt pulley machined and change it - so yes you can do that. we had a tach signal issue with that one so we made a smaller pulley, right ribs. we just run the stock alternator unless the customer had ALOT of stereo, electrical stuff in the truck and needs the higher amps, because you are using your stock stuff, your chevrolet signals will be correct, you didn't say whether you have AC and what year the chevy is. with AC it is easiest to relocate with a bracket and use your stock unit/hoses etc,

again your chev is running its own components. go look @ our website and see some of the things we've done, if you need some more specific info still, let me know.

dawna

 

[PKirby]

I asked the parts guy for a mid 80's 2 term. electronic regulator. I also used the black block and wires you are using.



The mid terminal on the reg. is the "I" terminal. Run a wire from it to one of the small terminals on the back of the alternator and splice to it a 12 volt signal wire from the fuse box or ignition switch, {12v power with key on run only}.



The other terminal on the reg. is the "F" terminal. Run a wire from it to the other small terminal on the alternator.



By swapping the wires you probably damaged your regulator. I would buy a new cheapo and try again. 15. 5 volts is good.

 

[LNeshem]

hey thanks alot pkirby. I got it wired up like you said and it seems to be working great. only 11. 99 for the regulator sure beats the headache of building brackets and buying another alternator. Any wayappreciate the help.

Lowell

 

[PKirby]

Glad to help, I have been helped by others several times on this site.



I tried using a electronic Ford reg. on mine first but could not get it to charge. I read somewhere they were more durable.



My local auto electric rebuilder told me the Nippondenso alternator used on the CTD trucks was a very good unit and rarely ever needed anything but a brush set on a high mile one.



I have had problems in the past with the GM alternators and high loads. The older built in reg. ones would eat rectifier bridges and the later style ones overheated and shorted out on the rear cover and also destroyed rear bearings.

 

[Nordby]

I could not get a Ford regulator from a 1978 to work on my 1997 cummins/nippondenso.

I'll try a cheapo mid-1980's Dodge reg and see if I get anywhere. If not, I'll go 1-wire Leece and be done with it. I'd just as soon save the $$$'s though since I already have the nippondenso.



Where did you guys get a plug to fit that dodge regulator? Junkyard? Some other way to put ends on wires to fit the plug holes correctly (looks like 3 holes, but here it was mentioned only two are used).



Thanks, jon

 

[PKirby]

I cut my connector off of a late 70's Dodge junkyard car. That connector is used on several Chrysler vehicles of various years.

 

[Copterdoc]

alt

I have always run chevy one wire alternators on my conversions. that way you have no need for a regulator. 49. 95 at napa.

 

[Copterdoc]

alt

Here are some pics. Just bolt the dodge pulley on the chevy one-wire.