Aluminum Fuel Lines?

[EarlKann]

I'm working on my CTD conversion but I thought I might get better exposure in here. The fuel lines from the donor truck are to short to fit in my crew. Also, they are like a hard plastic that I haven't ever seen before. So I'm trying to figure out how to run some new fuel lines. The local speed shop sells aluminum fuel line that is very easy to bend by hand. I'm thinking that I could use the old lines as a template and add short pieces of rubber line at the tank and the engine. I tried a search for aluminum fuel line here and didn't find anything. Does anyone know if there are any problems using aluminum fuel line with diesel fuel??? Also I've heard that fuel injection hose is better than regular gas fuel hose, any thoughts on this??

 

[ronco]

Earl,



I will throw my pennys worth in here. I hear that aluminum will work harden over time and break/crack. If that is true, the vibration produced by a Cummins might make short order of the best bent fuel lines. I don't think the diesel fuel itself will pose a problem to the aluminum. If you use any rubber lines in your truck, make sure it's rated for diesel fuel.



Steel line is not that hard to bend. You can buy longer sections at your local auto parts supplier. Plus, steel already comes with the ends flared and with fittings attached. Hope that helps.



Ronco

 

[mberry]

Good advice Ronco. I would use stainless steel if it were me. Could be enough water in diesel fuel to corrode steel lines in short order as well. Stainless is more expensive obviously, but one thing you do not want is any problems with your fuel delivery system.

 

[EarlKann]

Good advice Ronco. I would use stainless steel if it were me. Could be enough water in diesel fuel to corrode steel lines in short order as well. Stainless is more expensive obviously, but one thing you do not want is any problems with your fuel delivery system.

Any ideas where to buy stainless?? Anyone know how hard it is to bend?? I have the truck all apart now and I'd rather put it back together right than have to go back and change something again later.

 

[rbattelle]

How about using braided stainless AN lines/fittings? Pricey, but very serviceable down the road.



As far as work hardening the aluminum leading to fracture, it seems to me that if there's rubber lines on each end of the aluminum line, the stress in the aluminum will be insignificantly small. Just a guess.



-Ryan

 

[metal tech]

I got my 1/2" stainless from McMaster Carr, $26 for 6-7ft stick 0. 035 wall. It bends rather easily with a Rigid hand bender and is easy to make the 37 deg flare for AN fittings. Just make sure the tubing is the "annealed seamless" type, it's good enough for aircraft use.

 

[EarlKann]

I guess I forgot to mention that it is a 1st Gen engine. There is only one location with a threaded fitting and it already has a hose barb on it. I figure that I'll run short sections of rubber hose at the tank as well as the engine. Just want something a bit more sturdy to run along the length of the frame rail.



Fuel tank fittings

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Engine fittings

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[nickleinonen]

How about using braided stainless AN lines/fittings? Pricey, but very serviceable down the road.

i'd almost drop the braided stainless over just regular braided steel under braided poly... much cheaper, holds up to pressure as well, dirt easy to get from hydraulics shops and put reuseable jic fittings on them from the hydraulics shops. . those fittings are cheaper than the anadized aluminum fittings you see in the summit/jegs catalogs. and they are the same 37° flare, same threads, all interchangeable



may not be as pretty as the SS, but depending on manufacture, you can get the hoses in black, green, blue...

 

[michigandon]

Do NOT use stainless

Damn stuff is virtually impossible to bend. All ya gotta do is LOOK at it the wrong way and it's kinked. #@$%! I tried to use it on my sig project. I WANTED a solid line from the tank all the way to within a few feet from the engine. I ended up with stainless on the straight runs and rubber hoses at most of the bends. Irks the hell outta me.

 

[metal tech]

I'm sorry you had problems making stainless hardline work for you. I would not recommend something to anyone that I have not personally used myself. I did make a sizeable investment in the tools needed for making hardline work. The bender was $100, and the 37 deg flare tool was $300, but since I have several projects where I'd rather use hardline instead of braided it was worth it to me. I have bent 0. 035 wall annealed stainless line w/o much effort, I would not even think about using anything other annealed line nor line thicker than 0. 035, it's just not needed.



Al

 

[michigandon]

Well, I'm sure my attitude would be radically different had I had a $100 tube bender on hand. I bought the 25' rolls from Summit and though that it would be the schiznit for plumbing my system. If only I had known then what I know now...



Don