2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Aluminum radiator problem!?

[samsonite01]

Well my factory rad started leaking by the upper inlet hose from the plastic tank to fin connection. So i bought an all aluminum rad from one of the leading manufactures. $$$ This rad after 6 months started leaking in the same area this time from where the fins are attached to the tank. Now the aluminum rads are much stronger than the plastic tank style right? I figured it a fluke bad rad. I contacted manufacturer with my problem. They explained to me that the frame flex caused it and i needed to check my mounts. I checked all mounts and front clip connections, nothing looked out of the unusuall.

Now i have herd that fords had this problem but wasent aware of a problem with dodge.
The manufacturer kindly replaced my rad under there lifetime limited warranty. (Thank you).

Well now bout 4 months down the line the warranty rad is now leaking in the same place.

So half of me wants to believe that i have receved yet another bad rad and the other half is wondering if there is some other problem causing this. Im ready to contact the manufacturer agian if need be however im not one to take advantage of warrantys like some do.

What are your guys feelings or experiences with aluminum rads. Are they worth the money? Do i have some problem thats eating rads? Its frustrating to have a problem and think you have fixed it yet you didnt. I take good care of my truck and upgrade anything that goes wrong (like my whole freakin fuel system and 8thousand dollar transmission!). Was my aluminium rad upgrade a bad one?

Sorry for the long post. I have a problem explaining things thoroughly. Just ask my wife

 

[SnoKing]

Send the rad manufacturer a link to the frame flex video of the RAM (no *twist) and Ford (tail gate will not open).

Snoking

 

[samsonite01]

10-4. Will start serching for that vid. Thank you.

Still would love some input.

 

[JR]

Send the rad manufacturer a link to the frame flex video of the RAM (no *twist) and Ford (tail gate will not open).

Snoking

Those are 4th gen trucks.*

What manufacturer radiator is it? I replaced my original with an aluminum one aittle over a year ago, hopefully I don't regret it.

 

[samsonite01]

Its a mishimoto. Beautiful product. Very nice customer service. I by no means intend on slamming on this product. Just want a rad that dosent leak.

Somthing tells me that the fin connection at the tank is stressed to hard in that inlet location. Lot of thermo expansion when t-stat opens.

Doing some research and it appeaers that mishimoto products are manufactured in china.

Dont know if that makes any difference.

Im going to contact griffin colling products today and ask them what they think.

Its starting to leak pretty bad. Really dont want to eat a 800 dollar rad.

And just to be clear; i do all of my own maintenance/repairs on all of my familys cars. You simply cannot trust shops and dealerships to do a good job. Im fully capable of in depth repairs so owner operator error is ruled out.

 

[Joseph Donnelly]

Be sure to use new antifreeze/coolant, with distilled water. There have been issues of the aluminum welds getting eroded by coolant.

 

[SnoKing]

Be sure to use new antifreeze/coolant, with distilled water. There have been issues of the aluminum welds getting eroded by coolant.

Watch out to Fleetguard Complete anti-freeze with the DCA4 additive. I lost a water pump seal early on one of my B150 and Cummins said it may have been from the DCA4 additive which is hard on seals, and is not needed in the smaller Cummins engines. The 2001.5 also lost a water pump seal early I thing I used Fleetguard anti freeze in it on the first change. Snokng

 

[JMcCoy]

Maybe you can get it welded extra strong so it will not fail again.

 

[samsonite01]

Yes. I use Zerex HD green 50/50. Complete flush each time previous rad removal. Distilled water from grocery store. Never any cleaning additive. Cant go wrong with regular old green collant and a drain/flush every 12 months. Interesting about the fleetgaurd coolant? I use fleetgaurd oil and fuel filters (before filter housing delete anyways). Valvoline Preimum Blue 10-40 oil.

On the welding yes i will attept my self seeing as i have two bad coolers to practice on. Thats my last chance effort if all falls through. There is a product called Super Alloy 1. Its a brazeing/ soldering method. Just dont know how difficult it will be in the tank to fin connection. I have a friend that fabs aluminium, nice shop with all the tools. He recommends cutting off the side tank and rebrazing all the welds then welding tank side back on. That will cost lotts of beer! Good idea though.

 

[BigPapa]

Let me get this straight. You have an $800 radiator that you're going to need to remove the tanks and re-braze the tubes, then weld the tanks back on, for it to function properly?

My $170 Spectra radiator from RockAuto that's 3 years and 150K miles old is looking better all the time.

 

[samsonite01]

Yes. Fun project for couple of buddies to have a beer over. I have two of them to play with. When you spend 800 makes sense to try andfix instead of being out that money. Sh#t, mishimoto probly going to warrent me another.

And by the way. Allready have a napa cheapo installed... think its a spectra.

 

[CharlieFoxtrot]

I've heard horror stories about several of the high-end aluminum radiator brands. Some are welded, some are epoxied, and people say the epoxy construction is inferior. But IIRC I've seen problems with the welded too.

Here's my thought: Your sig doesn't sound like you have some sort of wild race truck. Why do you have a "race" radiator? Leave the NAPA Spectra in there and forget about it. Spectra is an OE supplier and makes good parts.

 

[JR]

Leave*the NAPA Spectra in there and forget about it. Spectra is an OE supplier and makes good parts.

That's what I somewhat reluctantly put in and knock on wood, this is my third summer with no issues.*

Granted thats nothing compared to the 15 years the OE lasted...

 

[samsonite01]

You guys prob wright. I sold my self on the aluminum disipates heat faster and a full welded rad would be stronger. I have always upgraded with better or the best parts when somthing fails. Not the case here. Mishimoto has sent me a third rad. Dont know if i should try to sell and cut my losses. It will be interesting if the napa rad fails in same manner. Also i talked to a tech at Griffin cooling, he explianed how to inspect and pinpoint the problem. Electrolysis was concern. DOV read between .19 and .22 respectivly. To my understanding this is a normal and acceptable reading for our trucks. The two failed rads have no signs of warping or binding to an extent of causing failure. Def not a prob with my truck. Problem seems to be with the product. Sorry mishimoto if your reading. When the warranty rep admitted to having yet another fluke bad rad i became concerned. One is a fluke two is a coincidence three is a epidemic!

Going to have to chaulk this one up to cheap china manufactured junk.....and a failed (on my part) attempt to upgrade my truck.

 

[SSage]

When it comes to radiators I prefer local auto parts stores, if there is an issue with getting a defective one I can pull it and get another one that day. The Spectra is a good aluminum/plastic 3 row. The cheapo house brands work too, but the fit issues with the windshield washer tank are not good. I can't imagine me ever needing to spend $800 on a radiator, I guess I'm cheap, or my priorities are more into $1300 turbos and $5,000 transmissions... :-laf

 

[DavidC]

Watch out to Fleetguard Complete anti-freeze with the DCA4 additive. I lost a water pump seal early on one of my B150 and Cummins said it may have been from the DCA4 additive which is hard on seals, and is not needed in the smaller Cummins engines. The 2001.5 also lost a water pump seal early I thing I used Fleetguard anti freeze in it on the first change. Snokng

Now my version............. I have been running Compleat for over 10 years and at least 60k miles with no problems. I would take the statement of DCA4 causing that problem with a grain of salt.

Dave

 

[HHhuntitall]

The DC4 additive is run with a filter on most Heavy duty apps, for anyone that might have overlooked that....