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AM Axle questions

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Just got a deal on a 2004 Dodge dually AM rear axle for $250. I want to change to 3:73 gears and this axle is complete from rotor to rotor but has one of the axle tubes plug welds were broke in an accident and rotated that tube about 30 degrees from the pig assembly. The truck it was on was submarined when it was hit and the leaf spring was pushed up about 10 inches. The axle itself was not hit. So I tried calling around South Carolina and Georgia and had no luck finding anyone who could fix the damage, in most cases I was told to get a new housing. I know this is bs because when I lived in west Michigan I ran over a Mazda with my 2001 Dodge 3500 that t bone the truck just damaging the bed side but the impact bent the axle tube and broke the ubolts. Valley truck parts in grand rapids straightened it out, reinforced all the tube welds and replaced all the bearings for $900. Now that was me bringing in the axle with just the housing and gears and that was in 2004. So is there anyone in Georgia or South Carolina who can fix this axle correctly? My other options is pulling the gear set and swapping out my current rear axle, how much setup work is that. Please keep in mind I have never done a axle setup before but I am a very able mechanic.
Thanks
Kyle
 
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All you need is a machine shop that is willing to jig it and weld it up. Finding one of those might be an issue if they are worried about liability. I gave up finding places in that want to do actual machine work that consisted of anything more than assembly. Just have to keep digging.
 
If you change the gears you are going to need dial indicator and a couple things. I would get someone who has done it before to work with for your first time. You need to jet it just right. Do not use the words that's good enough.
 
Never thought getting an axle repaired and serviced would be so hard. It seems everyone wants to trash the housing and not fix it and the ones who want to fix it want huge money, $2000 plus. Went to a 4X4 shop in Augusta, he wanted $800 to just tear down the gear set, and install new bearings, that was estimate and it was plus parts. After seeing their shop I would not let them fix my lawn mower. The service area is was a joke, no major areas to even work on an axle and the shop was a mess, dirty and trash everywhere. I know from building engines you MUST keep things clean or the new parts get contaminated and wear out very quickly. I am beginning to believe in order to do the 4:10 / 3:73 swap, is either go back to Michigan or learn to do it myself .
 
About $1200 per axle is the going rate to swap gears, it can higher or lower depending on work load. Cleanliness of a shop is not necessarily indicative of rebuild quality. As long as they keep the parts clean when being installed it is a non-issue. Just doesn't engender a lot of trust when someone wants to work in a junk pile rather than clean up the work area a little.
 
I would pay that for a professional shop, I am not looking for hospital clean conditions, just common sense. You should see this shop, bay doors open with a gravel parking lot, trash everywhere and you could see dust blowing around on the floors, not a good place to work on a open axle! I thing the best is now just buy a low mileage axle and sell my old ones and part this one out.
 
An Axle isn't an Engine, there is nothing inside that's really allergic on some common workshop dust, as long as no one works with an anglegrinder right beneath it.
There are only huge ball bearings inside and the Gearset, and a lot of oil that splashes around and cleans everything. Don't worry about it.
 
Wow, you really believe that? So why do we even bother to use filters then, why change oil, gear lubes and other fluids in motor vehicles? Contaminated fluids is one of the main causes of mechanical failures. When rebuilding ANY motor, transmission, gear box etc. you must keep it clean, even shop dust can cause problems, excessive wear and complete failure down the road. This is base on fact, not opinion.
 
Well here is the game plan, 1st I just bought a complete front 3:73 axle with 116 k miles. I will replace all the ball joints, and looking at a Yukon free spin hubs and then drop the new axle under the truck, step two remove the 3:73 ring, pinion carrier assy from the broken axle and have it installed with new bearings and the computer programed for new ratio. So that leaves me a complete 4:10 front axle with new Moog ball joints, Wheel bearings and U-joints along with a 4:10 ring, pinion, carrier to sell. Did I miss anything?
Thanks
Kyle
 
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