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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Am I nuts? Getting the truck ready for a haul.

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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission parts list.

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I moved from WA to FL in an 08 2500 towing a ~15k pound enclosed trailer, and since then my wife's lease ran up on her car and so I traded out my truck for a 98 12-valve and an 07 Caravan, and now we're moving back to WA with the same trailer.



The 12 valve, while it's got its own flavor of sweetness, doesn't seem to have nearly the balls of a chipped 6. 7. Ok, it's not really fair comparing 180 hp and 420 lb-ft at the crank to just shy of 500hp/1100lb-ft, I'm hoping it won't give me any problems towing this heavy of a load back across.



I have some toys coming that I hope will help out - 4k gov springs, 60lb valve springs, afc springs, firestone air bags, and I've already installed a hitch that shouldn't have any problems lugging the trailer around.



Any of you tow moderately heavy loads with 2wd 2500 qc short beds? In all of your infinite wisdom, what's the single most important thing I should do before heading out?



Oh, I should mention I've got my transmission splayed all over my bench at work and I'm planning on tweaking it and dropping in a beefed up torque converter, but anything else? I do have a #5 fuel plate waiting to go in while my trans is out, and I'm pulling the timing cover off to replace some seals as well as make sure I don't have any kdp issues, and I'm replacing all fluids and hoses as well.



So what would you do in the next month?



The truck is a frankenstein - VIN says it's a white Canadian truck, EPA sticker says the core support came from a 96 magnum 5. 9 truck, bed came off a red truck, the cab came off a green 4x4, and the instrument cluster is in MPH, so there are definitely some questions as to how many miles are really on this thing. Bearings all sound and feel good, trans looked pretty good, one clutch got hot at some point and there is some wear starting on two of the seal surfaces, but all in all it wasn't bad.
 
The 5 plate will have very high EGT's towing that load. the afc spring is best used on the 215hp pump.

The early trucks had a much lower trailer tow rating most likely to due the less

braking capability.

My guess with that set up you will not be using overdrive too much
 
put a good triple disc converter and tricked valve body in that trans and it will live, also make sure you stick a HD band strap in there also. . run quality clutches and look close at the steels before re-usuing them,



I went with Goerend parts a month ago and have really been impressed, good people and real fair prices, and they stand behind there stuff with no bs.



add some gauges so you don't burn her down on a hill.



where ya landing when you get back up here?





peace, B.
 
Gauges are already installed, just have to drill the manifold and install the trans temp sender & plug in the wire.

Good trans parts will be ordered and installed, my co-worker has been building transmissions for Chrysler for almost as long as I've been alive, he knows a thing or two about the 727-based stuff.



Ok, so how does one go about making a respectable amount of power without obnoxious EGTs or dropping $1500+ on a different turbo?

The AFC springs I decided to go ahead and get just because I was planning on going into the pump anyway, and going in once sounds better than going in multiple times. I may not be making a ton of power now, but my goal is to hit the 400/1000 ballpark down the road and TST recommends the spring kit for higher power levels even on the 180 pump.

On that note though, how can you tell the difference between a 215 pump and a 180 pump? Is it normal for the Cummins engine plate to say it conforms to 1997 model year emissions when the truck is (supposed to be) a 1998?



When we get back we'll be up north somewhere between Bellingham and Woolley.
 
I thought the early 98's were built in 1997 until the end of December. I would highly recommend a steering stabilizer. Check the tracbar while your at it. Also check the bushings in the control arms. Don't bother with rubber replacement. Go with urethane.

Edit - starter contacts
 
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Yeah, 12-valve 98's were all built in '97. 1/1/98 was the production date where it switched to 24 valve.

I guess that makes sense though, since trucks built in 98 had to meet different emissions requirements (hence the change over to the 24 valve). The emissions changes aren't a model year requirement, they're production year based, but from the manufacturing standpoint why produce two different stickers for a year when you can just extend the previous year's sticker.



I've looked for loose joints under the front end, and nothing seems loose. The gearbox was sloppy and I turned it in a bit, but I still feel a little steering wander. If I turn the gearbox in any more it starts binding up though. I don't know where the ambiguity is coming from, but perhaps it's the bushings. It's a 2wd so the track bar isn't an issue. I see mounting points for a steering stabilizer, but no stabilizer is in there. Starter looks like it may have been replaced sometime recently. It's not all covered in grime.

Thanks for the tips!
 
The gearbox was sloppy and I turned it in a bit, but I still feel a little steering wander.





On a two wheel drive, loose steering is usually the slip-joint at the gearbox, attached to the steering wheel shaft. It is so common that Dodge stocks them. They are very inexpensive.



Nick
 
I would install chevy one ton wheel cylinders. I would also remove the level-adjusting proportionig valve because it will reduce your rear braking when you pump up the air bags. Good luck.
 
trany switch

Put in one of the switches on the dash to hold the transmission in High gear lockup or 2nd lockup. Comes in real hand in the mountains pulling up and going down.

Do a search for Mystery Switch, should find a pdf file. If ya don't find it pm me and I can email it to you, if I still have it.



I think you will do fine, I have towed a lot of trailers all over USA, Canada, and Alaska with my 96.



Edit: I have the pdf file on my flash drive (I am at work) so I can email it to you, PM me so I can send it.
 
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I would install chevy one ton wheel cylinders. I would also remove the level-adjusting proportionig valve because it will reduce your rear braking when you pump up the air bags. Good luck.



1-ton Chev wheel cyls, eh? Is there a design benefit? Something inherently wrong with the stock ones? Or is it just for a little larger piston? What year should I look for?



Someone already beat me to the load sensor. I looked for it, but couldn't see any evidence of there being one.







Put in one of the switches on the dash to hold the transmission in High gear lockup or 2nd lockup. Comes in real hand in the mountains pulling up and going down.

Do a search for Mystery Switch, should find a pdf file. If ya don't find it pm me and I can email it to you, if I still have it.



I think you will do fine, I have towed a lot of trailers all over USA, Canada, and Alaska with my 96.



Edit: I have the pdf file on my flash drive (I am at work) so I can email it to you, PM me so I can send it.



Got it.
 
The lighter afc spring will give you more smoke,with out doing supporting mods above 230/600 you will be keeping your eyes stuck to the pyro on the grades. Not so relaxing... ... ... .
 
The chev wheel cylinders are 1 3/16" bore. They used a variety of sizes in the dodges depending on the model but your's are likely smaller.
 
I swear I replied to this already tonight. ???


So, what do you mean by supporting mods? Turbo?




I cleaned and lubed my rears, I'm pretty sure the cyls are smaller. I'm guessing larger pistons means more clamping power, but does it require more pedal too?
 
Well the only way I'm going to get more air is if I get a turbo or possibly one of those upgraded exhaust housings, or maybe a turbonator.



;)
 
Cosmo you are certifiable nuts! LOL, eh? Enjoy that road trip, you should post your route so TDR members along the way can wave or give a place to stay (or wrench if something goes awry!). Happy motoring!
 
Well that's what it looks like right now... KDP is fixed. EGT probe is installed. Trans is half-rebuilt. Diff is drained and refilled. Gauges are installed. HD Radio with ipod input is installed. Airdog is 1/2 installed (gotta drop the tank yet). Tailgate stays are replaced. FS2500 is installed.



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Well that's what it looks like right now... KDP is fixed. EGT probe is installed. Trans is half-rebuilt. Diff is drained and refilled. Gauges are installed. HD Radio with ipod input is installed. Airdog is 1/2 installed (gotta drop the tank yet). Tailgate stays are replaced. FS2500 is installed.







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And Cosmo still planning on leaving in the morning! :eek:Last minute details no sweat!!:-laf:-laf
 
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