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Amsoil Air-filters?

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I've been running a K&N filter in my truck (stock air box) now for 20k miles with no problems. It is extremely dusty where I live and use the truck half the time. So just to be safe I removed the K&N and put the stock filter back in. ( I could see tiny holes in the filter media!)



I am looking for a good performance filter alternative to the K&N. I've heard of the Amsoil

air filter, but know nothing about it. Is this a totally different type of filter? does it fit in the stock box? Is it safe to use offroad?



Thanks for any input...
 
TS 106 is for the Dodges. It is about like the K&N. I clean mine once a year and reoil it. Be sure and get a bottle of there oil to have when you clean it. I guess it depends on how much dusty roads you are on. I've seen tapes of how they test different filters and the Amsoil filters better. I've been using them since I had my 95 and no problems. Used to use KN on gas engines too. Go to there web site and you can find more info.
 
You can have mine

I have a Amsoil TS-106 that I am not using. It is made of 2 layers of foam. Much thicker than a K&N filter. I'm using a BHAF now. I'm with the thinking that no oiled fiter is a good idea with a turbo charged engine.



My Amsoil filter was only used for 1,000 miles. I will sell it if anyone wants it.



Chuck
 
The Amsoil filter is a thick layer of oiled foam rather than a thin layer of oiled reinforced cotton fiber like the K&N. The filtration principle is different. Oiled foam filters have millions of bubbles that form wide, but highly convoluted passages that allow air to move from the dirty side to the clean side. Dirt particles in the air, regardless of size, tend to move in straight lines after they enter the pores of the filter. Once they hit the oiled rubber, the particles are trapped in the oil film. As a gas, air can make its way through the twisted passages formed by fused bubbles to get to the other side of the filter without much restriction. The K&N uses more of a single pass approach to trap dirt particles. The filter develops a static electric charge as air is sucked through the pores at high velocity. This causes particles that are not trapped directly by the oiled surface to be deflected to the sides of the pores where they get trapped in the oil film. Only problem is that K&N seems to have some quality control issues and some filters come through with many very wide pores that allow some dirt to pass through. I’ve had some good ones and some bad ones in my cars over the years.



I use the Amsoil filter in my truck now because I am more concerned about good filtration than maximum air flow (although the air flow is at least as good a new stock filter) since I live in an area with lots of very fine dust. I’ve had excellent oil analysis results once I learned how to properly oil the filter (wash in detergent, rinse, air dry for 2 day, use exactly 1/3 of a bottle of oil, drain on a paper towel for 2 days). There is no oil residue on my turbo blades or inside of the intake tubing. The Amsoil oil seems to be thicker and has more tack agent than the K&N stuff. So if you don’t have oil dripping off the filter, none seems to get sucked into the turbo or intercooler.



BTW, I don’t sell Amsoil.
 
but amsiol doesn't make a BHAF, so why would you want one?;) :p :D

Really, I put a BHAF on las week and after 2 tanks am seeing . 5+ mpg in fuel economy and better throttle response (mainly becase my old filter was filthy).

The BHAF works great and can be replaced at any NAPA or Cummins dealer, besides who wants to clean a filter. Just get a new one when its dirty. By the way, the BHAF holds three times as much dirt as the OEM filter.



Get the BHAF and a 'Mallory' mount-- it looks really cool!!!:) :D :cool:



Later,

Mark
 
Mark_Kendrick,

I'll tell you why I want the Amsoil "Oiled Foam airfilter". I installed one on my 94 Ram when it had around 8,000 miles on it... ... ... It now has 135,000 plus miles, and I have never had to buy another airfilter! At $28. 00 each for a Mopar paper filter changed every 10,000 miles, I would have paid over $365. 00 in this many miles!

I have taken oil analysis samples every 10,000 miles since then and the most silicon(dirt) I have ever seen is 10 PPM. I only clean it every 20-25,000 miles.



Wayne
 
amsoilman, lighten up... like i said who wants to clean them? not me!!!and the amsoil filter will never flow like a BHAF and I want no part of any oiled filter!!!!



If cant clean it at the car wash i'll replace it. I'll try to save money anywhere but a filter.



BTW I sell amsoil too and will be putting in their oil and bypass filter on the next change.
 
I have cleaned my Amsoil filter 3 times now at it doesn't seem that difficult to do. Some say it is tougher than the K&N, but I would be fearful of damaging a K&N since it doesn't seem as rugged.



I throw my filter in a large pan with hot water and good dose of dishwashing detergent and let it soak awhile. Then rinse it good. The next step, letting it dry, is the only complaint I have since it takes at least a day or two to thoroughly dry. Reoiling is easy, just run thin beads crisscross a couple times and massage in with fingers and you're set. I haven't had the slightest indication of oil passing through, the entire intake hose is always bone dry and clean. I like the thick foam edge which ensures a great seal, even though it takes a little wrestling with the cover to keep the fitler positioned and lock it down. I live in a desert environment as well so good filtration is important. As far as flowability, I don't think the Amsoil filter would outperform the BHAF though.



Vaughn
 
Does the stock air filter really need to be changed every 10,000 miles driving on pavement? I thought I heard something like 30,000 miles.
 
FWIW I use a dog groomers dryer to dry my K&N. I think you could

use a normal hair dryer suspended over the opening of the freshly washed filter and achieve the same results though. Only takes about an hour to dry totally.

;) I got tired of waiting a day or two and got creative;)



Regards, Bush'
 
klenger,

I waited 25k to change mine. Mistake!! I just forgot about it. I put 25k on in 11mos. I passed every thing but gas stations and jiffy lube:D :D



It was filthy... almost all highway too. If you go to an after market like the BHAF, you can go 2-3 times the normal inerval. It holds 900+grams of dirt vs 330 grams for the stock filter.



Big as it is you just blow the dust off now and again. I don't bother. I'll just get a new one when it gets dirty.

Napa, fleetguard, wix, & hastings all make the BHAF, just pick your poison.



Later,

Mark
 
Back to the original question. I have used stock, then the K&N, then Amsoil, and now BFAF. Amsoil is the best filter for doing what it is supposed to do. The K&N is a glorified rock screen, but will flow more air than stock.



If you have a modified engine, you absolutely need the BFAF. Just think about the volume of air that goes through your engine at 30lbs+ of boost. BFAF will drop those temps. If Amsoil made a filter the size of BFAF I would be using it.
 
Drying Filter

I started using a red heat lamp hung above my filter to dry it. Let it

hang on one area for awhile then flip it over.
 
Mark_Kendrick,

I wasn't trying to ruffle your feathers... ..... I was just stating some of my own experiences with the Asmoil oil foamed airfilter. The oil analysis number I gave is fact!



Wayne

amsoilman
 
Lube Man's web site



Hey, I'm confused. Exactly what is a BHAF filter, who makes it, etc. I asked this question before and got one reply that it was a "big honking air filter". I use an Amsoil filter and am very pleased with it but I do like to be informed on what else is out there. Can someone give me a more intelligent answer than the last one I received?

Thanks!
 
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