Attention: TDR Forum Junkies 
This is the same post which is found on the 3rd gen forum (non/engine and transmission) but this is where it should have been. I just didnt want anyone to miss out.
I found it difficult to locate a good location for my Bypass Filter (Amsoil BMK-11) for my CTD. I looked all over, and this is what I came up with.
This is a long post so please bare with me.
You will need to purchase some steel and will need to do some welding. Sorry this is not a direct bolt on, but most of us shady tree mechanics are apt to doing this. I purchased a 1/4" plate of steel 6" x 12" and a 2" x 2" square stock at 6" in length. I tack welded the Box steel to the plate. Actually I had a shop do it because my welder is in the back of a fully loaded 10 x 30 storage unit. Drilled the holes for the filter base, 2 mounting holes and 1 hole for the engine block heater wire.
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Here is the back side of it. .
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and with the filter attacked... get the picture??
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Now where to put it. This was the trickie part. I wanted to have a solid location but didn't want to drill any holes in my frame. I used the two access holes for the mounting bolts which hold the AC unit to the motor. You will need to remove the fender-well to get to the two holes.
#ad
Here is what the filter installed on the frame. You may thing its too close to to the motor, well ya its close, the bolt and nut come to about 3/8" to 1/2" to the AC unit but they don't touch, even when the motor shimmies during shut down. (I checked) Use Grade 8 or better nut and bolts, You will need some heavy duty fender washers on the outside of the frame so the bolt heads don't go though the access holes.
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Follow the directions on where to get your oil in and your oil out. To get your oil in, remove to bolt on top of the Full flow oil filter assembly. there are two of them, I believe you can use either one.
#ad
You need to purchase the swivel fitting and a new oil fill cap. You can not use the original fill cap because of the ratchet mechanism within the cap.
Amsoil sells a slick billet Aluminum fill cap which I believe comes with the hole for the swivel fitting already drilled. I went to the local auto parts store and bought a non ratcheting fill cap and drilled my own hole. The only problem with that is my hole is off center just the slightest and I think this is the reason I have a minor leak at the swivel fitting. note: this is my only leak and it is MINOR.
#ad
If you want, you can drop your return line into the oil pan, but its too much of a pain.
The filter hangs just a little further than the radiator. My belief is that if you are going to hit the filter you will be wiping out your radiator as well.
I left out the measurments of the mounting holes for 2 reasons.
1) There is some give on where you put the bracket. too high and it will show on the outside of the frame.
2) I didn't write down the measurments when I drilled them.
A few things I would do different:
Use grade 8 bolts and some thick fender washers or make your own out of 1/4" steel. after I tighened down the bolts I sucked int the washeres a bit and I think I stripped out one of the bolts. No biggie, this is easily fixed. And yes you will need to cut down the bolts to size, remember they are two diffent lengths. there is no room for washers on the motor side of the bracket, use nylock nuts.
I would make the mounting holes a little further down on the steel bracket. The only reason is to buy some more insurance if a crack developes on the bracket.
if you are big on asthetic looks, use the steel braided hose and the adonized Aluminum fittings. this will make the install look pretty slick.
Let me know what you think. I am open for critisim only if you do it in a positive matter. if you want more info feel free to e-mail me... Big_Horn
I found it difficult to locate a good location for my Bypass Filter (Amsoil BMK-11) for my CTD. I looked all over, and this is what I came up with.
This is a long post so please bare with me.
You will need to purchase some steel and will need to do some welding. Sorry this is not a direct bolt on, but most of us shady tree mechanics are apt to doing this. I purchased a 1/4" plate of steel 6" x 12" and a 2" x 2" square stock at 6" in length. I tack welded the Box steel to the plate. Actually I had a shop do it because my welder is in the back of a fully loaded 10 x 30 storage unit. Drilled the holes for the filter base, 2 mounting holes and 1 hole for the engine block heater wire.
#adHere is the back side of it. .
#adand with the filter attacked... get the picture??
#adNow where to put it. This was the trickie part. I wanted to have a solid location but didn't want to drill any holes in my frame. I used the two access holes for the mounting bolts which hold the AC unit to the motor. You will need to remove the fender-well to get to the two holes.
#adHere is what the filter installed on the frame. You may thing its too close to to the motor, well ya its close, the bolt and nut come to about 3/8" to 1/2" to the AC unit but they don't touch, even when the motor shimmies during shut down. (I checked) Use Grade 8 or better nut and bolts, You will need some heavy duty fender washers on the outside of the frame so the bolt heads don't go though the access holes.
#ad#adFollow the directions on where to get your oil in and your oil out. To get your oil in, remove to bolt on top of the Full flow oil filter assembly. there are two of them, I believe you can use either one.
#adYou need to purchase the swivel fitting and a new oil fill cap. You can not use the original fill cap because of the ratchet mechanism within the cap.
Amsoil sells a slick billet Aluminum fill cap which I believe comes with the hole for the swivel fitting already drilled. I went to the local auto parts store and bought a non ratcheting fill cap and drilled my own hole. The only problem with that is my hole is off center just the slightest and I think this is the reason I have a minor leak at the swivel fitting. note: this is my only leak and it is MINOR.
#adIf you want, you can drop your return line into the oil pan, but its too much of a pain.
The filter hangs just a little further than the radiator. My belief is that if you are going to hit the filter you will be wiping out your radiator as well.
I left out the measurments of the mounting holes for 2 reasons.
1) There is some give on where you put the bracket. too high and it will show on the outside of the frame.
2) I didn't write down the measurments when I drilled them.
A few things I would do different:
Use grade 8 bolts and some thick fender washers or make your own out of 1/4" steel. after I tighened down the bolts I sucked int the washeres a bit and I think I stripped out one of the bolts. No biggie, this is easily fixed. And yes you will need to cut down the bolts to size, remember they are two diffent lengths. there is no room for washers on the motor side of the bracket, use nylock nuts.
I would make the mounting holes a little further down on the steel bracket. The only reason is to buy some more insurance if a crack developes on the bracket.
if you are big on asthetic looks, use the steel braided hose and the adonized Aluminum fittings. this will make the install look pretty slick.
Let me know what you think. I am open for critisim only if you do it in a positive matter. if you want more info feel free to e-mail me... Big_Horn
