Amsoil Bypass Filter Installation

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As you know, when it comes to the motor we enjoy, I cannot leave well enough alone. It's funny, as I was typing that last sentence, it occured to me that the rest (the truck) is just a large engine holder (not really, indulge me). If the Cummins was only available in a Studebaker would you still purchase the Dodge? Your lucky your brain doesn't work as intermittently as mine!

I finished installing my Amsoil bypass filter system yesterday and I thought I would explain what I encountered for those of you considering this retrofit.

First problem... where do you mount the big %@&$ filter? Well, be happy you have some room under the hood, some truck owners don't!
I wanted it to be vertical like the oem filter mounted on the block, but I did not see any area on the fenderwell or elsewhere to allow vertical installation. So I fantasized up a sheetmetal surround for the passenger side battery, now I have a vertical surface to bolt the filter bracket to. I made the engine side triple thick to give an appropriate strength coeficient for the bypass filter to hang off of. This side of the engine has the greatest volume of free area and is convenient to the oem filter mounted on the engine. So now where do the lines hook up to the engine? Weeeeeelll I removed the 1/8" plug from the top of the oem filter bracket and installed the pipe x flare fitting and ran a line to the inlet of the Amsoil filter bracket which is now mounted on the battery "heat shield" (I made). We now need to install a return line to the engine from the bypass filter bracket. I purchased the swivel fitting from Amsoil, thinking I would drill the filler cap and install this part. Not!, it's to short for the filler cap! Now what? I decided to remove the valvecover and drill and tap a 1/8 pipe hole for the return line.

This system will filter a very small volume of oil, at a low pressure, through a humongous filter, in order to capture significanlty smaller particles than the oem system is capable of. From here one can theoretically leave the oil in the engine for extended periods while consistantly changing the filters. The synthetic oil holds up under extreme heat better than petroleum based oil. HEY!!!... that was to wake up those of you who I put to sleep while ramblin' on this topic.


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3/4 ton, 5 sp, lsd, 2wd, qcab, guages, Scotty sys. Rhino liner, Blue Box hp enhancement

 

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Would you mind posting a photo of your setup?
Thank you in advance!

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99 QC Diesel,5spd, white,Luverne SS step bars, Mopar long mud flaps, A. R. E. cap with walk thru door, SS rock side panels, JC Whitney front bumper 14" guards, BED RUG box liner, diamond plate bed rail and bulk head covers.

 

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HVAC, you stated, "it's to short for the filler cap! Now what?" What was too short? Was the length of the return line provided too short? I've seen the Amsoil swivel fitting, and I'm having a hard time envisioning this as "too short" to install on the oil fill cap on the 24v, valve cover. Please explain.

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'98. 5 2500 QC 4x4, (Black) SLT Sport, personalized license plate: BLCKOUT, ISB, LWB, 3. 54 LSD, A/T, 275 hp. injectors, Glasstite Vision II "canopy", Line-X bed liner, 285/75R16 BFG A/Ts on 16x8 M/T Challengers, Warn 4X Boards, Mopar fender flares, front and rear NW Custom stainless steel/rubber mud flaps, Mag-Hytec diff. cover and trans. pan, Edelbrock IAS shocks, VDO Vision gauges, PIAA Dual Sport 900 auxiliary lights and Super White bulbs, BD exhaust brake and TorqLoc, Prime-Loc fuel filter relocation kit, and Banks exhaust.

SVP of BOMB! heh,heh,heh

 

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HAVC,
The "swivel" fitting from Amsoil is long enough to go through the oil "fill" cap on either the 12V or the 24V engines, however, the 24V engine has a cap with a spring inside that is part of the ratchet mechanism on the cap. The 12V does not use this type of cap, so it does not interfere with the swivel fitting.

On the 24V oil cap, if you drill the hole in the cap to install the swivel fitting, the cap will come apart.

To eliminate this dilema, just install the self tapping fitting that comes in the by-pass kit in the valve cover on the 24V engine. I install them about an 1 1/2 inches from the fill cap towards the front of the cap. Best if you remove valve cover and make sure the fitting will not interfere with the valves or rocker arms. DO NOT USE DRILL to do this! Use a punch to make the hole big enough for the self tapping fittinf to just start, then install the fitting and tighten it till it bottoms out on the "O" ring gasket that comes with the kit.

It sounds like you did a great job in installing your system, and I hope you enjoy the benefits this will provide you.

Best regards,


Wayne
amsoilamn

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94'SLT 4X4 AT/White in color. Factory Tow Hooks & Running Boards. Amsoil By-Pass filter, Amsoil Air cleaner,and all fluids are Amsoil.
BD exhaust Brake, BD Torque Lock, BD Torque Converter, Dr. Performance Stage II Injection Pump. Mag-Hytec Diff Cover,Isspro Pyro, Boost,Oil temp Gauges mounted in 3 Gauge post mount. One gauge monitors Engine Oil, Trans, Diff. Temps.

 

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Well good morning Rammers!

Eino, I just took a few pics yesterday, if I can figure how to scan them (not likely) maybe you could get a better idea how it looks.

John, the swivel fitting will allow you to spin the filler cap(to remove it) even with a line attached to the center of it. The problem I had was the length of the threaded part of the swivel fitting would not exceed the length of the filler cap. If I drilled the cap and shoved the swivel fitting into the hole, I wouldn't be able to get the nut started to hold it in place, no threads sticking out. The hose is shipped as one long piece so you can make up the hoses to suit your installation. The hose ends are reusable screw together devices I have used with liquid propane systems. One of my goals was to keep the hoses short, I saw one system (dual remote) hung off the lower radiator support which does not seem like a good idea to me, to vulnerable.

Amsoilman, I did remove the valvecover for the reasons you mentioned. As it turns out, the point I had marked to drill prior to removing the cover, was right at the support rib even with the 1st hold down bolt. I moved the location forward so now the return hose goes through the eye of the engine hoisting bracket. I drilled and tapped the cover and then cleaned it up and reinstalled it. The 1/8 mp x 1/4 mflare fitting is screwed into the cover and the return hose is attached to that. The second reason I did not drill the plastic filler cap was the problem you mentioned with the spring inside. I feared I would have trouble with it so skipped that idea. Now with the engine running and the filler cap off, you can see a 1/4" trickle of oil flow out of the return line and onto the top of the head.


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3/4 ton, 5 sp, lsd, 2wd, qcab, guages, Scotty sys. Rhino liner, Blue Box hp enhancement

 

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HVAC,
You did a great job! BTW, I did receive issue 26 just yesterday, and the by-pass installation article I wrote is in it.

Wayne
amsoilman


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94'SLT 4X4 AT/White in color. Factory Tow Hooks & Running Boards. Amsoil By-Pass filter, Amsoil Air cleaner,and all fluids are Amsoil.
BD exhaust Brake, BD Torque Lock, BD Torque Converter, Dr. Performance Stage II Injection Pump. Mag-Hytec Diff Cover,Isspro Pyro, Boost,Oil temp Gauges mounted in 3 Gauge post mount. One gauge monitors Engine Oil, Trans, Diff. Temps.

 

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Wow, you wrote the article Amsoilman? Where do you recommend locating the filter? I am really happy with my location. I remove the rubber tube going to the turbo and I have plenty of room to remove both filters. I have kept both hoses real short too.

The main filter (on the engine) is an amsoil version and I notice it is slightly longer than the fleetguard unit. It is tricky to get the snap-on filter wrench in there. I'll have to purchase a new filter wrench for the bypass filter since it is a larger diameter.
I don't think I can get a million miles on my engine Wayne, something about the way I drive!



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3/4 ton, 5 sp, lsd, 2wd, qcab, guages, Scotty sys. Rhino liner, Blue Box hp enhancement

 

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I took my Dremel tool ad cut the middle out of the oil fil cap on my 12v. The Amsoil swivel worked real well in there.
I mounted the filter horizontal on the passenger side on the brace under the radiator. I mounted an extra transmission filter on the driver side. I built me a little skid plate (and bolted it up to the back of my winch mount) to protect it.

 

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HVAC,
Ya, I did write the article, but I should have included the 24V application as well. However, the only difference is the return line attatchment back to the engine. The way you did it was a good way as well.

I still think the best place for mounting the by-pass unit is on the passenger side battery, on the engine side.

I have installed upwards of 30 of these units on the battery using the 2X4 method of attachment, and they look good as well as doing the job for pennies!

To all of you rammers, have a great Thanksgiving day! And enjoy those Rams!

Wayne
amsoilman

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94'SLT 4X4 AT/White in color. Factory Tow Hooks & Running Boards. Amsoil By-Pass filter, Amsoil Air cleaner,and all fluids are Amsoil.
BD exhaust Brake, BD Torque Lock, BD Torque Converter, Dr. Performance Stage II Injection Pump. Mag-Hytec Diff Cover,Isspro Pyro, Boost,Oil temp Gauges mounted in 3 Gauge post mount. One gauge monitors Engine Oil, Trans, Diff. Temps.

 

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Hvac.

So if your not running a by-pass filter forget about extented oil changes?Also did you install the Amsoil By-pass kit BF-90. How much time did it take to install? Thanks Tom F.

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97 Ram 2500 4x4 Driftwood 5spd 3:54 E-brake Isspro,boost&pyro guages


[This message has been edited by Tom F1 (edited 11-26-1999). ]

 

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Tom F1, I believe the Amsoil concept is that to extend oil changes the bypass filter is a good idea. In my mind, if you are planning extended oil changes you need to go beyond the oem filtering system since they suggest oil changes at 5000 miles. Although the synthetic products are heat tolerent to a greater degree than petroleum based oil, the oem filtering system will not trap the finer particles in the oil. So while doing a good job of removing the larger size particles, if you go beyond the manufacturers recommended oil change intervals you are running oil with an abundance of finer particles which will cause engine wear. If you can't keep the oil clean enough to prevent excessive wear, you can't extend the oil change intervals. Amsoilman, please wade in here with your opinion.

I believe I purcased the BF-90 kit and the BMK 01 (for bypass filter solo/not dual remote).

As far as the time the installation took, you have to understand the mind of a Bomber. It isn't all the end product, it's the gettin' there! We have an enlarged tinkerer gene. I spent a lot of time just standing over the engine praying for divine intervention and an installation plan I would feel good about. I had no template to go by and as far as I know,I have an installation different from any other. To make the metal box to hang the filter on was a chapter in itself. Where to run the lines was another chapter. If you have first hand info like I can now provide you, you could install this system in a couple hours. If you are comfortable mounting the filter to a 2 x 4, you uncomplicate things. Then you just have to run the lines. The self tapping fitting scared me so I removed the valve cover and cautiously drilled and tapped it. What I am saying is I am no benchmark for how long it should take to perform this job.

Remember HVAC may be slow in the shop, but he is quick on the highway!

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3/4 ton, 5 sp, lsd, 2wd, qcab, guages, Scotty sys. Rhino liner, Blue Box hp enhancement

 

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HVAC,
According to the (SAE) Society Of Automotive Engineers paper 881825, AC Spark Plug and Detroit Diesel Corp. performed a joint study of the relationship between the level of engine oil filtration and Engine wear rates, and found finer filtration reduced the rate of Engine wear.

The researchers found clearances in the Diesel and Gasoline Engines varied between 2 and 22 Microns during engine operations.

That means particles in the 2 to 22 Micron size range are most likely to damage Engine parts. Particles smaller than 2 Microns will slip through the clearances without damaging bearing surfaces.

Micron Ratings are arbitrary values assigned to filters and media. Although a "micron" is a length (I millionth of a meter), a "micron rating" is not actually a measured value. The micron rating for a filter quotes a particle size without establishing the filter's efficiency at removing that size of particle.

A window screen will remove some 5 micron particles, but it will not be very efficient. Since a micron rating cannot be verified, filter manufacturers are safe in assigning any number that they want. AMSOIIL does not recommend comparing filters based on micron ratings.

To compare filters, the filtration industry has established standardized tests for measuring performance. These test include Life and Efficiency Tests (SAE J726, HS806 and J905) and Beta Ratio Tests (SAE J1858). These SAE standardized test methods, along with the meticulous recording of test conditions, ensure that the filter comparisons are "apples to apples".

For life and Efficiency data on the AMSOIL full-flow filters, they are determined using SAE test method HS806. This multi-pass test method measures the filter's ability to remove a standardized contaminant from a standardized fluid that is flowing at a constant rate and a constant temperature. The test continues until the contamination trapped in the media raises the differential pressure drop across the filter to a specific, predetermined level. Life and Efficiency Test results will include a time Weighted Efficiency (%) and a Capacity (grams).
I think you ordered the BMK-11 By-pass kit, and you should have ordered the BE-100 by-pass oil filter element. These are the ones I install.

Hope this helps,

Wayne
amsoilman

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94'SLT 4X4 AT/White in color. Factory Tow Hooks & Running Boards. Amsoil By-Pass filter, Amsoil Air cleaner,and all fluids are Amsoil.
BD exhaust Brake, BD Torque Lock, BD Torque Converter, Dr. Performance Stage II Injection Pump. Mag-Hytec Diff Cover,Isspro Pyro, Boost,Oil temp Gauges mounted in 3 Gauge post mount. One gauge monitors Engine Oil, Trans, Diff. Temps.

 

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Your correct Amsoilman, I could not find my receipt so I was going off my commercial price list (it is out of date). I recall now when I called to place my order we double checked the item I needed and it was the BMK-11 (wasn't in my price list). I do still have the installation instructions headed BMK-11. The filter is the 100 too. Hope that clears up my earlier statement.

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3/4 ton, 5 sp, lsd, 2wd, qcab, guages, Scotty sys. Rhino liner, Blue Box hp enhancement

 

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I ordered my amsoil bypass system today. I need to know when do you change the main and bypass filters (time/miles)? When do you send in an oil sample?

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97 2500,4X4,auto,3. 54,Jacobs RamBrake,BD torque lock,Horton fan

 

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The full flow filter should be changed at 6 months or about 10 to 12k miles. The bypass filter should be changed at 12 months or 25k miles. I also turn in oil samples at the time I change my full flow oil filter. I change all the oil out once a year.

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97 2500, running boards, rino bed liner, Amsoil filtration system and fluids through out.

 

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Boy, I gotta weigh in on this one. While I do not dispute the claim that the use of synthetics and optimum filtration is a good idea, I question the idea that extremely long oil change intervals (50,000 miles or more) are possible if an aftermarket filtration system and synthetic oil is used.

As an aircraft mechanic, I have overhauled a number of aircraft engines. The last two were an O-300 145 hp Continental six and an O-320 160 hp Lycoming four. The Continental had over 6500 hrs (about 585,000 equivalent road miles) on the original crank and cam and the Lycoming had 5300 hrs. The bearing surfaces of the cam and crank for BOTH engines cam back from the FAA certified overhaul facility with NO detectable wear and were reinstalled with a new set of STANDARD bearings.

What’s interesting is the filtration systems between these two engines. While the Lycoming had a typical spin on filter, the Continental had only two small metal oil screens. NO OTHER FILTER ELEMENT. So how could these two engines run so long and exhibit relatively no wear? I believe it is due to the short oil change intervals specified by the manufacturer. The Lycoming service manual requires oil changes every 50hrs (4500 miles equiv. ?) or 6 months and the unfiltered Continental requires it every 25 hrs/6 mths. It would appear that change interval plays as much a role (if not more) in engine protection as does the type of filtration system used. (To be sure we’re comparing similar engine technology, a quick check of the serviceable clearances for the crank to bearings for both of these engines is . 006. For the Cummins it’s . 0057. So the lower ends are about the same. This is not true of the top ends however. No question a water-cooled power head will perform better and longer then air-cooled).

So if the lower ends are not significantly effected by abrasion as long as we follow the manufacturers oil change intervals, what causes most engine distress? Industry experts say it's corrosion. Corrosion from acids that accumulate in the oil due to the combustion process and moisture. Corrosive oil affects cylinder walls, cam lobes and tappet faces and not surprisingly these are the components we have the most problems with. More importantly, the amount of these corrosive acids continues to accumulate and the situation worsen the LONGER THE OIL STAYS IN YOUR ENGINE. The only way to get that acid out of your engine is to drain the oil and replace with fresh (either through the conventional way or by slowly burning it with the fuel in the engine while adding new like the big Cummins engines do). Filtration can not do that.

Now I’m a firm believer in oil analysis and think that anyone pushing the recommended oil change intervals should do it. However, while the analysis will give you some indication of the oil condition right now, it won’t help determine when the oil will become unacceptable in the future or when the filter (which may have been in place for 33,000 miles or more) will go into full bypass. The only way I can be sure of my oil systems condition is by starting out with new oil and a new filter.

BTW, I take issue with the economic model offered in the last issue of TDR. First of all, under normal driving conditions, my manual says to change oil every 7500 miles not 4000 so that’s 14 changes in 100,000 miles or 154 qts. Rotella T sells for $1. 40 at Wal-Mart so oil will cost $215. 60. 14 oil filters from Geno’s at 8. 50 each is another $119 for a total of $334. 60 and that’s $173 CHEAPER then the aftermarket alternative. It would also seem to me that the 10% bypass concept would suffer from the same mathematical inconsistency that reader Jay Reynolds pointed out regarding coolant changing in the last TDR and that is that there will always be some oil that does not make it through the bypass filter.

One closing comment. I do know that if I do have an oil related engine problem within 100,000 miles or 5 yrs. And I have left my oil system stock and can substantiate that the oil and filter change intervals are IAW the owners manual, that Dodge will be doing an overhaul or repair at THEIR expense, no questions asked. But if they see non stock extra oil filters bolted to 2x4’s and bypass lines attached to fittings drilled into the valve cover and I haven’t change my oil in over 50,000+ miles, they’re simply going to close the hood and push my rig out into the street and say “Have a nice day” and I won’t have a leg to stand on.

Newby’s beware!

Ron.


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'00 2500, 4x4, QC, Cummins ETC/6spd, 3. 54, Camper, Trailer, SLT, 4ABS, BD E-brake, Pullrite 20. 5K 5th hitch, Tekonsha Envoy-SX Tbrake, Flame Red/Silver, Agate