amsoil dual filters

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I recomend to NOT install the duel remote bypass filters on the cummins.
Max oil preasure went from 80+ to 65psi
Min oil preasure went from 42+ to 35psi
and the engine temp went to 190 easy (Which I havent seen for a long time durring a high speed mountain run.
the kit was a BMK-15 and IT IS GOING BACK!
I tried the oil routing in both directions and there was no differance. waste of $250+


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99 SLT auto Q. C. 3. 54 W/: GearVendors 22% OD,Velvet Ride,Rino Lining,Snug Top Highliner,Smittybuilt,4" exhaust,K&N,275 injectors,VA,gauges,Named "The Sleeper"

 

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I know of a couple fellas running the dual remote setup; one of them is a high volume
Amsoil sales rep. He has a Cummins powered
Ram. I will tell him what you posted and
see what he says (out of curiosity on my
part) since I was planning on installing the
same system in my '01.

Soon as I find out I'll post something here.

Chris

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'01 3500 QC 4x4 SLT, Dk. Garnet Red with tan interior.
ETC/5spd 3. 54 anti-spin,Line-X, Valentine 1, Kenwood
TM742 tri-band Ham Radio VHF/UHF/6M & GPS APRS Tracker N5CWM-2
Picture of my '01 3500

 

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Mr. B,
With all due respect, Lets take a moment to think about this one. Simple Physics tells us that Volume and Pressure are inversely proportional. Meaning as pressure rises, volume drops. Next, we know that the oil pump in our Cummins. . or any motor for that matter can flow "x" liters or gallons per minute. This rating is altered by a thing called pressure. As line pressure increases flow decreases. This concept is not to be misunderstood for LOW or NO OIL PRESSURE. That is not the same thing. I would be concerned if your described symptoms did not happen. Simple law of Physics here. Instead of all oil being forced through one filter, now the oil is distributed 60/40, 80/20 through two filters, thus a distributed load is in effect. No different than watering your lawn with a 3/4" vs. a 1/2"!!! Which hose do you think will do a better job of watering the lawn? But the 1/2 will have better line pressure!! Heck, my pressure washer has 2000PSI. But I don't intend to start using it to water my lawn!! As volume capacity increases, line pressure drops, and vise vera. All the oil pressure in the world doesn't mean squat without sufficient volume to perform the task its intended to do. Keep your system, nothings wrong... BTW: ~60-65PSI is about right with the system installed.
AS far as the water temp increase... I don't know. . I have the same system, and mine runs the same if not a smidge cooler. What did you mean by routing in both directions??? Routing oil "out" of the "inlet" sit is not the best idea... I can understand why that didn't work. Lastly, where did you mount the filter? I'm curious because I didn't see many available locations. . And I'd like to know where you put it.

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98' 24v 2500 Auto/3. 54 4x4 SB QC. Everything but leather. AMSOIL oil filter relocation kit w/secondary by-pass unit,Smittybuilt Stainless Steel Nerfs, Rhino Liner, K&N. Somehow lost my silencer Ring.
Still wishin I could put my M3's mile deep paint job on the truck. Or maybe I should wish to swap its perfectly engineered automatic. Or maybe... . Ah heck, Just wish BMW would start makin a truck using the ISB!

 

[Archive]

Originally posted by Deezal Man:
Mr. B,
With all due respect, Lets take a moment to think about this one. ... Lastly, where did you mount the filter? I'm curious because I didn't see many available locations. . And I'd like to know where you put it.

I recently installed this filter on my '98 12V. I designed a bracket to do the job. This bracket has a place that sits under the right battery, risers that hold the filter unit next to the battery (between the turbo inlet hose and the coolant expansion tank). It has a wrap-around bracket that connects to the battery holder by the fender, using the same bolts. The bracket is made of ~0. 1" steel.
Had a local welding shop make it. I primed it with an etching primer, and put several coats of enamel on it. The filter is mounted so that the sampling valve is next to the air filter housing.

I did it this way as I didn't want the dynamic weight of the filter unit and two quarts of oil flexing the battery case. And where I put it is about the *only* place to install it. The filters sit vertical, and there's room to get them out. The only thing I have left to do is afix some Teflon sheeting around the hoses so they and/or the AC and
coolant hoses don't develop untimely leaks. (Teflon is good for minimizing friction-based wear. )

I finally got it all installed a week or so ago, and I still haven't detected any oil leaks. What'd I do wrong? #ad
I'm heading to Muncie Saturday; a peer review of the design won't hurt. I'll see if any of them point out the obvious (but minor) drawback to my design... .

Fest3er

 

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Mr. B,
I have to agree with Deezal Man. Try it for awhile. I have installed many of these units, but I install them on the cross member directly under the radiator. They are mounted vertical. I have not had anyone copmplain about their engine temp going higher, or the oil pressure to change appreciably. I had one on my 94 Ram for over 105,000 miles with no major problems. Another friend I have has 130,000 on his 94 Ram, and is useing the same setup.

Wayne
amsoilman



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94'SLT 4X4 AT/White in color. Factory Tow Hooks & Running Boards. Amsoil By-Pass filter, Amsoil Air cleaner,and all fluids are Amsoil. Optima "Red Top" batteries.
BD exhaust Brake, BD Torque Lock, BD Torque Converter, Dr. Performance Stage II Injection Pump. Mag-Hytec Diff Cover,Mag-Hytec Transmission Pan, Isspro Pyro, Boost,Oil temp Gauges mounted in 3 Gauge post mount. One gauge monitors Engine Oil, Trans, Diff. Temps.

 

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Yes the temp only went up about 5-10, but it gave me a scare. Friction causes heat and the temp went up when the preasure droped to 35 psi. This is simple math to me. Unless the 15-40 amsoil lets it get warmer (Slightly granted)then there is not enough flow. When I saw that the max preasure went down 20-30psi I thought sh** this is causing the oil pump to load up. BAD THING.
Diezel Man, I am not spreading water on the yard, I am trying to keep two metal surfaces from rubbing togeather presure and Viscosticy are the only things that do that.
If some one threw a soft ball at you and you only had your garden hose and your preasure washer to block the ball from hitting you in the face which would you use and give the presure washer the same size hole as the end of your hose at its 2000psi. with the hose you would get a wet knot on your head, and with the preasurewasher you would send the ball back 10x the speed.
Amsoilman, our trucks are capible of 1,000,000miles if we are lucky. The oil is good, but those with 100k+ are still babys, and the engines are tough. stock oil can give you 300/400k miles so synthedic and better filters can do the same even when ideling is causing more wear than stock @ 35psi.
The location of my filters is vertical under the harmonic balancer just to the right, on the bumper frame.
Anyone else who has the same setup please let me know if your preasure has droped or if there is somethin wrong with my unit.



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99 SLT auto Q. C. 3. 54 W/: GearVendors 22% OD,Velvet Ride,Rino Lining,Snug Top Highliner,Smittybuilt,4" exhaust,K&N,275 injectors,VA,gauges,Named "The Sleeper"

 

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Wait a sec...
I have to throw my $. 02 in:
Oil pressure doesn't keep the parts from touching-the oil does that. Just read about this topic in... The new TDR? I think it was in Exaust Note.
BTW, I have a single bypass installed and have notice a slight pressure drop most likly due to the 5w-30 I' running. #ad


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'94 3500 4x4, 193,000 miles, Auto w/shift kit,3. 54 Gears, TST #5 plate, 235-85-16s, Rancho 9000s w/remote, Isspro gauges inplace of cupholder & Amsoil Bumper to Bumper. NRA member.

 

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I had the Amsoil dual by pass system on my 96 V10 for 290K miles. Had 297K on it when traded, was useing a qt. every 8 to 10K. Changed the 5 W 30 between 30 to 35K. according to oil samples.
Have the BMK-15 on my Y2K Cummins now for 60K, the oil has not been changed for 50K, and samples are fine. Temp. runs 190-200 since new, oil press. 40 lbs. , 30 lbs. idle. , uses qt. 6 to 8K miles.

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Y2K 3500 QC,SLT,4X2,White, 6spd,3. 54 lsd,Banks Stinger +,Pacbrake,Pilar mt. EGT & Boost,Amsoil air filter,all amsoil lube w/BMK-15 filter system,MagTec rear cover,putco boss rbs. w/ rear ext. &flaps,20K reese,100 gal. aux. fuel,fold up T cover,5K airlift bags w/comp. ,ranger 2950 cb pushing palomar 225 amp,phantom radar det.

 

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Originally posted by Extreme1:
Wait a sec...
I have to throw my $. 02 in:
Oil pressure doesn't keep the parts from touching-the oil does that.

I'm not a lube systems expert, but I would think that pressure is needed to keep a good 'head' of oil on the leading 'edge' of the bearing. The motion of the bearing across the race draws oil into the gap and provides the (nearly) frictionless
surface needed to prevent the parts from self-destructing.

Cummins has specific figures as to required oil pressure needed to maintain proper lubrication of all engine parts. (I don't have those figures readily available; they were in either the TDR mag or on the Cummins mailing list. )

Now, consider that cold, thick oil causes real high pressures. As the oil thins with heat, the pressure drops to 'normal'. Amsoil is thinner cold and would thus have lower relative pressure when cold. But hot, its viscosity should be quite similar to that of hot dino oil (of the same grade). Actually, 15/40 oil, whether synthetic or dino, should have the same viscosity, but synthetic usually doesn't get as thick as dino oil when real cold.

I, too, have noticed that my pressure gauge reads a bit lower with Amsoil 15/40 when hot. But Amsoil have certified that their dual-remote (and remote bypass) systems do not decrease oil pressure below Cummins specs. And since others have used the dual-remote filter on their 6Bs for many miles without problems, I'm not going to worry too much about mine. I'll do the first analysis at 6K miles; that will tell me how well the system is working. And I'll take it from there.

Fest3er

 

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Fest3er,
Nothing negative to say about your system and bracket, as somebody who makes his living repairing other people's bad engineering mistakes over and over again, I have to say your design and install was "super- sano" . Way to go... I'll be removing and modifying my own bracket, using your ideas , during break time at work tomorrow #ad
. Your bracket has them at the right height, mine, as supplied by my AMSoil upline jobber, mounts the filters a little too low, and it has too much flex in it. What great luck to meet you at the Muncie event. I enjoyed making your acquaintance.

 

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It seems to me that this system is just removing a bottleneck in the system. You can't measure the pressure at the journals, but I am willing to bet that they haven't changed that much. The pressure drop across the filter isn't as great, so the total system pressure is less.

It's just like an electric circuit with Ohm's law (remember V=iR). In this case your oil flow is i (current), the pressure difference is V (voltage), and frictional losses are R (resistance). The gear pump is a positive displacement pump, so flow is (relatively) constant for a given RPM. If the flow is constant and you rearrange for pressure and resistance you get, i=V/R. Since we are reducing the reisistance to flow, the pressure drop must also decrease to keep the same amount of flow. From what I understand about journal bearings (we kinda skipped that chapter in the class), the oil flow rate is the main concern. If the pressure gradient from the journal outlet and the crankcase is the same, the flow rate will be the same. I hope this makes at least some kind of sense #ad

 

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Guys,
remember that the two filters are not flowing oil at the same rate. The bypass filter is supposed to have a restriction orifice (2mm?) to slow the flow of oil through it, allowing it to perform more efficiently and minimally affecting the pressure through out the system.
I built a bracket similar to the one described above and have used it for the last 3-4 years. Works great and no problems.

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Tim Barlow