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Amsoil Engine Flush

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Anyone use the Amsoil Engine Flush product? I got a catalog today and I'm waiting for my dealer paperwork to go through and I notice that they had a fluid that you run through the engine prior to changing over to their synthetics ( which I am). The info in the catalog is real vague and not alot to it. Anyone use this? any comments woudl be apriciated. HOw long u run it through, etc.



Its supposed to clean the inside of the engine prior to installing synthetics.



Thank in advance

J-
 
Don't do it look in the owners manual , voids the warranty also if you do no use the authorized oil its possible to get voided to. So I suggest you Forgetaboutit . Just drain and fill with the proper oil that meets the specs . LOL Ron in Louisville ky:confused: :confused: :confused: :D :-{}
 
oil flush

yeah thats what I figured ref the oil flush. As long as you use the correct API rated oil it won't void warrant. If the manufacture specifies what BRAND of oil u must use they have to provide it free of charge as long as you own the veh. Same goes for filters, belts etc.



Thanks

J-
 
Use the Amsoil if that is your choice. I have yet to hear of a warranty that was denied because of using it.



Regarding the engine flush, I think it is bad medicine. Anything that reduces oil viscosity as much as an engine flush does is sure to cause metal-to-metal contact. The proper way to switch to synthetic oils, IMHO, is to run it for 5000 to 6000 miles the first time. This will remove the remaining conventional oil from the crankcase. This step is only necessary if you are considering extended drain intervals. If you are staying with normal drain intervals, just switch without worry. :)
 
How many miles on the truck? The flush is really only needed when you have a ton of miles on rot gut oil.



I have flushed everything from my 1977 Cub Cadet, a 73 Oliver diesel, Lincolns, Cadillacs, my own Cummins, etc. Doesn't hurt a thing.



1) change filter

2) add two cans of flush in the Cummins.

3) run at high idle for 20 minutes, do not drive.

4) get a nice long drain, change filter again

5) pour in the good stuff, you are set.



The Amsoil is going to clean your engine up anyway, it just is nice to get all the old oil and sludge out you can the first time.



Running Amsoil lubricants and filtration, or even extending your drains will absolutely not void your warranty. Never has, never will.
 
The only time a flush won't hurt is when the engine doesn't need it. If it's gunked up bad enough to need a flush, don't do it... there are too many tiny oil passages in your engine which could get plugged. "Dirty" engines, everything else being equal, run just as good as clean ones, minus the extra hp lost due to increased rotating/moving weight (dirty rockers,springs, etc... ) and increased heat retention (which in a diesel is not such a bad thing).
 
:) First question is how many miles on your truck. I've been using Amsoil since my truck had 1,500 miles. I now have over 75,680 miles with now problems, no leaks, no sludge. You should not have to flush the engines. Put in your Amsoil oil and run it for 500 miles and then change it out with new Amsoil and resume your normal 7,500 oil change interval. That would be your flush method. :D
 
Mundgyver, isn't 1,500 miles a bit early to be switching to Amsoil? It's always been my understanding that your engine won't ever break in with synthetic oil.
 
break in

Mud



Break in is not a problem, I'll have over 20k when i change out next month. I was gonna run for 1k and then change the oil, instead of 500. I'm putting on dual by pass too at same time.



J
 
:D Break-in is not a problem. These engines are assembled and then run up to spec at the factory for a period of time. I forget how long it is, but I know it is awhile as Cummins does not want a failure on a new engine. The oil is drained and then replenished with a new filter installed before being installed in the truck. So they have had one oil change already when you buy the truck new. The 500 miles does not serve as a break-in mileage for the first oil change. What it does is act as the flush for the hydro-carbon based oil. The engine will break in with synthetic just as it will with a hydro-carbon based oil, yes it will take a little longer. I have a dual bypass system on my truck and I run the 110(biggest one they have) right next to the fleet gard strato-pore filter in the same mount. Takes 13 quarts for me to do an oil change. I also have magnets in the oil stream upwind of the filters. What I'm looking at now is a better way to remove the soot component. A fleetguard centrifuge filter runs about $3K and that is just too much money for me. So we keep looking. ;)
 
Mudgyver, duel by pass question?

U run a Stratpore on the AMsoil dual by pass? They told me that it wouldnt fit the threads. I have 4 new stratpores and would want to keep using them but also want the dual bypass advantage. Let me know, this could be the best of both worlds.



Thanks

J-
 
JCyrbok, Send me an email address and I will send you pics of the setup with the filters installed. It can be done. The threaded adapter is the key. I sent the picks out to try and have them compressed down so I can post them on TDR. I gotta get me a digital camera so I can post pic. Any way I've done it and it works great. My home e-mail is -- email address removed --. I will be happy to send you the pics.



-Wally-
 
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Re: break in

Originally posted by JCyrbok

Mud



Break in is not a problem, I'll have over 20k when i change out next month. I was gonna run for 1k and then change the oil, instead of 500. I'm putting on dual by pass too at same time.



J



At 20K miles, you probably don't have enough sludge and crud built up to require a flush. Were it my truck, I would just give it a good, long drain and fill up with Amsoil. That's what I did with my '98 12V (by accident), and haven't had any problems.



Fest3er
 
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