And another newbe... To 1st. Gen

[GRudy]

I just bought a '92 W-350 from a freind. It came along with a complete snow plowing business, plow, spreader, and 15 very profitable contracts. I have known this truck since new and know it was well maintained so I never even bothered to test drive it before I bought it. Now that I have it I have found a few minor things that need done, no big deal, but one thing bothers me. I don't know if its just that I'm used to my '99 but this thing is a dog! When you go to pull out from a dead stop you have to stand on the throttle to the floor just to get it to start moveing!

Then once it is moveing you are flat to the floor to maintain 50 mph. I know these motors only have 180 HP (everything is stock) but it does not feel like it's putting the power to the wheels. ( I should mention that its an automatic. ) The trany was replaced about 10,000 miles ago after the previous owner blew it. I have no idea if they replaced the torque converter on not. The truck now has 139,000 miles on it. There is no tach or any other gauges besides stock for that matter. That will be the first bombing project. Next will be a 16cm turbo. But i guess first I need to figure out this sluggish transmission. Give me your thought guys.

 

[formula]

Hey, man, I think that your over-valved, over-fueled, smooth-curved heap has tainted your views of a real truck



In stock form it will be sluggish from a stop due to the way oversized turbine housing. You can tweak the pump and put on a smaller housing to help that. As for it only doing 50mph, that does not sound right, even if you have 4. 10's When mine was stock, I could still get 85mph.



Read the sticky in this forum, lots of great info there.



Check your air cleaner and change your fuel filter to start.



It would also be a good idea to add the specs for your "new" truck to your profile so we can see what you've got.



Cheers,

Sean

 

[GRudy]

Yea, I hear ya formula.



I guess I misled ya, it will do more than 50, you just have to keep your foot in it to do it. I am pretty sure the rears are 3:54's. I haven't had time to really check things out right yet. I did just ask him about the valves. He hasn't done anything with them since 50,000 miles so they are long overdue. I will give the air cleaner a look as well as change the fuel filter.

 

[DBF]

If you don't have a trans guy locally, go over to Lebanon to Messerschmidt's Transmission Co. (717-274-0859, ask for Franz). Don't be deceived by the look of the place - they've done good work for me and others.



Lately, they've been helping Cummins owners with autos quite a bit. They have one guy they help who gets 1500 ft/lbs to the wheels thru an auto (750+ hp).



Since that trans was replaced not too long ago (can you find out what the replacement was and where it came from?), I'd let them set(reset?) the valve body pressures to specs, change the trans oil filter, and set the bands correctly. Then you'll know what that trans will do without mods.



Then I'd listen to them tell you how to improve on it. You'll hear the words "Diesel Transmission Technologies" mentioned somewhere in there. I expect you've heard about them before, even if you have a 5spd on your curvy Cummins.



There are several ways to make more hp with our "little" engines. Pump adjustments will bring it to 190hp with 490 ft/lbs at the rear wheels, if the trans is stiff enough to pass it to the ground rather than put it out as heat.



Disclaimer: I have no interest in Messerschmidt's other than as a customer.



Regards, and welcome to the world of old, but still good, square trucks.



DBF

 

[formula]

Just thought of something else on the feel of the throttle that you mentioned. Yer extra valves require the use of an electronic throttle control. Thus the pedal feel that you have is very easy no matter how far you have your foot into it. On the 1st gens the throttle is cable operated and there are a couple of things that can make the throttle feel very stiff. First is the pedal itself. As it is from the factory it will tend to hit the carpet before you reach WOT which will make it feel like you have to really stand on it. Second is the cable operated trans kickdown. When you reach about 3/4 throttle the kickdown will fight back on the pedal pretty hard and require more effort to reach WOT.



Sean

 

[formula]

George,

I was just thinking of the valve adjustment. I did mine about a month ago. They hadn't been done in probably 80,000mi at least. Some of the exh valves were pretty far out of spec. After the adjustment, it ran ever so slightly better, with maybe a 50 deg reduction of EGT at cruise. The biggest improvement is the clatter from the rockers is gone.



Sean

 

[GRudy]

I will do a valve adjustment as soon as time and weather permits but I think i have found the major problem. I got the chance to drivre the truck for 30 miles or so night before last. I noticed that the trany does not downshift to 1st when you come to a stop in drive. It just stays in high gear. No wonder it feels so sluggish pulling out. If you manually pull it down to 1st and then shift up through the gears it runs pretty darn good, allot better in fact. So I need to get it to a trany shop and let them work thier magig. I had stated in my 1st post that the trany was rebuilt 10,000 miles ago. Well time flys when your having fun I guess. After calling my buddy I found out that it's been 3 years and 60,000 miles! So much for a warrentee issue. Then to top things off I was driveing it last evening and the brake pedal went to the floor! Made for a real interesting ride home. Can't find a drop of brake fluid anywhere but the master cylinder was darn near empty. Haven't found the leak yet, it's been raining / freezing rain here all day so we'll give it a look tomorrow.

 

[formula]

transmission isn't downshifting? Hummm... . valve body problem? How's the transmission fluid level? Big difference between 10k mi and 60k mi, I wonder if that slipped his mind I'm hoping someone's gonna chime in here with some ideas on the transmission.....

As for your brakes I had the same thing happen a few days ago. Check out this thread: https://www.turbodieselregister.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=61535



Sean

 

[nascar mark]

If your transmission isn't shifting down, theres a good chance that the line pressure is too high or there is a fluid leak internally past some seals in the transmission. Try backing off your line pressure a little and see if it cures the problem.

 

[hdm48]

Mark hit the nail right on the head. Check the line pressure. If you don't know how to do it, go to a transmission shop and they should do it for cheap. If the line pressure is OK, it is in the valve body. Most likely the governor control valve.



-dave-

 

[GRudy]

Thanks guys. I know nothing about automatics other than the basic thery of how they work. I would never atempt to do any work on one other than a filter change. I have a good trany shop close by that rebuilt my daughter trany in her car. When I took it to him for an estimate he quoted me $1200 - $1500. I authorized up to $1200, any more give me a call. 5 days later I get a call stateing the car is ready. I go to get it expecting to write a $1200. 00 check and the bill was only $700. 00! Most shops would have "made" the bill work out to $1200. Honesty earns my business.

 

[glhs]

Could the TPS sensor play a role in this? Just a thought. Kurt

 

[formula]

The TPS is one part of the control system for the 3-4, 4-3 shifts which are performed via the electronically controlled overdrive unit hanging on the back of the transmission. The 1-2-3 shifts are controlled hydraulically by the valve body.



Sean

 

[BushWakr - RIP]

Make sure your throttle vavle cable is returning to full forward position too. If not, you'll find that you are not seeing your line pressure drop to idle/no throttle value. Mine was doing that.



Bob.