Aneroid Cover Repair

[Texas Ted]

Is it possible to repair the threaded bushing that the vacuum line connects to on the aneroid cap? There is a leak at that point and the fitting moves about 1/4 turn in the in the cover. Thanks in advance. Texas Ted

 

[BushWakr - RIP]

I don't know about the repair choices here but you can use a brass fitting with a compression fitting end... . thread that in to the top, and connect 1/4" semi-rigid plastic tubing between the head and the afc top.

All you need is a source for you boost to reach the top... .

I've seen more than a few done like that and there's never been a problem doing it that way.

Otherwise I'd suggest you are looking at using some sort of epoxy to hold the threaded center in place...



pb... .

 

[Texas Ted]

The problem is not the line but the fitting that goes into the cap to which the line nut

attaches. The fitting appears to be a press fit into the cap casting.

Ted

 

[BushWakr - RIP]

Yes, if I recall correctly it is kinda like brass... yes?? ... .

Would it be possible to "chase it" with a slightly larger tap, then, use a pipe thread adapter... ??



HEY GUYS>>> some idea's here



pb..... chronologically challenged in Canada...

 

[Greenleaf]

OK, but ONLY because you asked... ... ... ... .....



IMHO you are making a mountain out of a mole hill. Kick back and have some lemonaid cuz that is what life just handed you..... NOT lemons.



You need that air pressure line (from the cylinder head to the pump's AFC top cover)just about as much as you need a leaking rear main seal. I does nothing for the cause unless;



You want to keep the engine 100% OEM

You have VERY strict emissions testing/laws etc.

You personally are apaulled by any smoke whatsoever.

You are afraid of what it'll do to the engine if you simply throw it in the trash can.



The worst that will happen is that you'll notice a tad more smoke when you hammer the throttle. Because you have a manual transmission, you'll likely see a puff when you get back into the throttle when up-shifting. But hey who doesn't see some visable exhaust, right.



Ok, most folks think I'm blowing smoke here... ... ... ... . literally. But try it out for yourself. but Please plug the 1/8" pipe tap hole in the cylinder head.



That's all I have to say... ... .

 

[Greenleaf]

Sorry... one thing I dun forgots... .



You'll have to dajust the depth of the fuel control cone manually with the "smoke screw" and (thickness of) the limiting washer under the diaghram. The control cone will not move. It'll set right where you adjust it. You can still cut a custom ramp into said cone just as you normally will do/have.



!!CAUTION!!



Do NOT set the depth of the control cone too deep and cause the cone's provile to bottom on the fuel control PIN that rides against the contol cone profile. You'll cause a rapid fuel leak and this requires removal of the pump's top to R&R the O ring on this pin.



This is probably more info than some can digest in short order. I'll be open to all questions if there are any. I have perfromed much experimental R&D on many pumps and on both Auto and Manual trannies. This isn't really state of the art info. Sorta old hat in terms of BOMBing our rigs.

 

[JLEONARD]

Scott... you're being a little "aneroid retentive" here..... :-laf



Just do what the pastor suggested... . it can be retapped to a standard pipe thread then it's a plumbing job.

Or this is actually an approriate place for an epoxy repair (as in JB weld, or the equivilent).

 

[Greenleaf]

That's possibly true and I wouldn't bother to say a word 'cept somebody asked for opinions. I guss he'd be better off not thinking outside the box.



Scott

 

[Texas Ted]

I'll try the epoxy idea first. That seems to me the way to go. SIMPLICITY!!! I'm pulling 12,000lbs so I already have enough smoke.

Thanks for all the input on this. Ted