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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) annoying questions

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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) 1996 CTD Transfer in SLC

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Sorry to "annoy" you guys with more stupid questions.



i ordered a pyro, boost , and transmission temp guages along with a pillar mount, I also purchased a tst cam plate kit (#5) and i am going to run like that until my transmission drops. Now when i go to have it rebuilt i plan to purchase the BD Valve body is this recomended to beef up the transmission? I plan to eventually be runnin about 375 to 400 HP do i absolutly need a TC they are really expensive. Also if I am looking for more power to beat little ricers and other things like that do i want to look at the torque numbers or the HP numbers. Thank you very much for your help and please feel free to make suggestions if i am going the wrong way with something. Thanks
 
At absolute minimum, you will need a new T/C and valve body to run as much power as you want. With the T/Cs being as loose as they are in stock form, you really won't feel as much of it 'til the TCC locks up. It just "wastes" the power otherwise. Would also need at bump up the line pressure in the transmission so the clutch packs won't slip and burn up.



On a stock '95 truck transmission, TST recommends no more than 230hp/605 trq. (#6 plate).
 
Okay thanks for the info ( even though its depressing ) what is the most power you would recomend going with if i just purchased a Valve body, and say the pressure loc kit. thanks again.
 
If you don't replace the TC you can't get away from the problem. The pressure loc kit tricks the PCM into keeping the TC clutch locked so an exhaust brake will work. If you don't lock the TCC then the poor hydraulic coupling in the stock TC will make more heat than power. If you lock it then you run the chance of tearing the TCC out. It's a real catch-22 situation without an aftermarket TC.
 
Well TC's are pricey cant find any that will fit my budget guess i am pretty much stuck with what i have, thanks for the info guys.
 
Does anyone know if someone makes a shift kit for my automatic transmission and if its a good idea to install one in my truck. Thanks again.
 
Do yourself a favor and spring for a replacement VB instead of a shift kit. I had nothing but problems with mine. The replacement VB's are usually flow tested and set by the shop. This makes it almost a bolt on installation.



Just my $0. 02
 
You don't seem to get it, do you? You want to talk the talk, but you can't drink champagne on a beer budget. You are simply wasting your time,energy and what money you do have by buying the look at me parts without having something to bolt them to. You can go for a shift kit, but shifting is not your transmissions problem. I know it is much easier to throw 75 bucks at the problem, then save for the expensive but important items. Your philosophy is butt backward, you need to get the main items in check, then go for the power and glitzy things. I suspect from your reply that you never will truly take care of these issues, and can only recommend that you leave your power level alone. Buy a few neon lights and maybe some funky tail lights as well, you will be better off.
 
im really sorry i did not mean to upset anyone i just recently learned that you can do alot of things to these engines for a fairly reasonable amount of money, the whole purpose that i subscribed to this forum and magazine was to learn as much as possible about my vehicle to get the most out of it. I am just a poor college kid trying to do the most to my vehicle for the least amount of money, once again I apologize.



p. s. neon lights and clear taillights will never touch my truck
 
JKouzez,



Don't worry about Mr. Y. All of us just don't have his kind of time and money. (I think he's just a little bored with it being winter and all) I'm in the same spot you are. My transmission is already giving me trouble and I haven't even started bombing! If I'd known of the TDR before I bought my truck (and nobody tried to scare me away) I would have opted for the manual transmission but then I'd be looking at clutch problems and the wife would be griping because she couldn't drive it! Anyway, my best advice is to follow everyone else's advice and save your pennies and do it right. First the TC and VB (or a complete transmission, that's what I want!), THEN the power.



DON'T BE SCARED!!!
 
You have nothing to be sorry for! Questions are what this forum is for and you have as much right as anyone to post here! Welcome to TDR!!



Originally posted by JKouzez

im really sorry i did not mean to upset anyone i just recently learned that you can do alot of things to these engines for a fairly reasonable amount of money, the whole purpose that i subscribed to this forum and magazine was to learn as much as possible about my vehicle to get the most out of it. I am just a poor college kid trying to do the most to my vehicle for the least amount of money, once again I apologize.



p. s. neon lights and clear taillights will never touch my truck
 
Mr. Kouzez, IMO there are NO stupid questions- just stupid people who DON'T ask any questions. IMO you're trying to do your mods in the wrong order- you want engine power without updating the transmission to handle it. Next thing you know you'll be out in Sticksville with 350HP and a dead transmission. Save your money and do the transmission mods first- all of the ones suggested. If this transmission can handle 350HP, it will handle 200 without any problems. THEN go for the hi-HP. This way, there is a pretty good chance you won't be stuck in Sticksville- just passing through with a good transmission. Think of how much it will cost to get towed from there, or wherever you get stuck (broken down with a dead transmission- how much $$ there?).
 
You have nothing to be SORRY about, And I enjoy your questions contrary to what it seems like. People should come to forums like this to find out what they don't know , and there truly is no STUPID question. What seems to be obvious to some is just new information to others. But. . there is the responsibility on your part to filter and decipher the information that is presented to you. You like most want to make more power, that is fine and really not a problem with the Cummins engine. Lucky for us that they had the forethought to build the engine block and it's lower end components heavy enough to withstand quite abit of abuse and higher then stock horsepower ratings. While the engine is the strong link, the transmission is not. It has been very well documented, that both manual and automatics well not stand up to much more then stock HP ratings. I have found that the auto has a very short life after the addition of power enhancers. That lifespan is even shorter when high power levels are mixed together with heavy towing. The transmission itself is not so bad, but the weak torque converter waste no time in killing itself. This is a known fact, it is to be expected, and should be well thought over before power is added. There is no cheap way around this, you can bolt on a new Valve Body, Shift kit, add a deeper oil pan, what ever. But it does nothing to correct the problem, you only wasted a small amount of your money, hoping to not have to spend alot. If this would work it would be great, it would save alot of people money, myself included. But it does no good, and I only think it fair to tell you the truth. I would not want to see you waste any of your money, it is simply to hard to come by. So when I recommend that you do nothing if you are not going to fix the transmission right, it is to save you from yourself. More power is nice, but with an automatic and a stock TC you will not ever see any of it, you could add 100HP, and not tell. When the TC is un-locked, as this one will be at low speeds, you can not get any additional HP to the ground. And if you did get the TC to lock-up at higher speeds, it will only slip if you try and use that new power.

In the end you will do as you please, regaurdless of what I or anyone else on this forum says, and to be honest it does not effect me one way or the other, It is your money and truck. I would just fell bad if I didn't tell you what I thought, so now I have done my part... ... Good luck.
 
"J",



As all of the guys have suggested, you really need to change the TC and VB to run at that HP level. I personally believe even a stock truck needs the transmission upgraded as it was my experience of having it start to fail at 1,000 miles (yup, that's only 1,000 miles). If you just do one and not the other, then you'll probably eventually get TC lock up shudder or clutch pack slippage and fill the entire transmission with crud. My only suggestion, again, is to go with a replacement VB kit instead of a shift kit for ease of installation. Shop around - sometimes there are even used ones in the classified. Good Luck
 
Thanks for your advice advice guys, exactly why i subscribed to this, i understand about the transmission now and the weakness it has. I see even if by luck i have have a strong transmission i could not plant the power to the ground without a better TC. Well, ill keep saving my pennies and get the TC ( any suggestions for which one) i already exchanged my number 5 for a 6 plate. and will install the guages this weekend. thanks for your advice (especially yours Yknot) you have all helped me see the big picture.
 
Originally posted by JKouzez

Well, ill keep saving my pennies and get the TC ( any suggestions for which one)



For some reason that I cannot understand, people here get real worked up and emotional over things like TCs and oil. ATS, DTT and Goerend (mentioned in alphabetical order, not preference) seem to be the most mentioned. BD and Suncoast also have some very satisfied customers. My TC, actually a complete stage 4 trans from ATS is going on 18 months of running a GCVW of 16-20K almost daily in hilly country with no signs of slippage. Pretty happy with it.
 
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