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Annual safety inspection Massachusetts

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Here in Massachusetts, there is an annual safety inspection for all vehicles. One test done is to test the parking brake. On a vehicle with a manual transmission, the procedure is to apply the parking brake, shift into 1st gear and slowly let out the clutch. The vehicle passes this test if the engine bogs down and the vehicle does not move. I can never pass the test and have to argue that there is no way the brakes will hold.



After doing some calculations I can see why the brakes will not stop the truck. The ISB Cummins has an electronically controlled idle speed of about 800 RPM and will apply fuel to maintain this RPM. The torque at idle is almost 300 ft. lbs. First gear ratio is 5. 61 and my final drive is 3. 55. Multiplying the 300 ft. lbs. by 5. 61 and by 3. 55 gives me 5,974 ft. lbs. of torque at the rear wheels. I am not surprised the truck moves.



Can anyone help me out with a solution? I am thinking of sneaking the shift lever into 5th gear but someone must know a way around this crazy problem.
 
Do you take it to a state run station or a private station? The private run stations are much more, shall we say, forgiving, on thier inspections.



I live near the Medford state run station, and a new vehicle strait off the truck would have a hard time passing.



where abouts are you located?



My '70 toyota landcruiser could never pass the e-brake test in NY. It had a KB 544 hemi with a Weiand 8-71 atop with twin Predators. I would leave a case or two or favorite brew "accidentally" on the shop floor.



Inspections used to be easy:rolleyes: :rolleyes: :rolleyes:
 
Hmm..

More utter confusion on the MA state inspection. 95% of them seem crooked :rolleyes: just find one that is crooked in your favor. All I had to do was turn the lights on, then the high beams and tap my brakes. Start the engine and cut it. I don't drive a stick, but they didn't even ask me to get out of the truck. The texaco down the street did mine.



Last year the guy who did the inspection hit me up for $10 to "fix" my headlight assembly (which has a snapped clasp or two on those adjustment screws). He sat there and pretended to screw it in. Actually it probably adjusted them enough so that when he turned the lights on it did shine okay, first bump I hit, it was out of wack again, IE back to normal, one inch below his line.

Glad that cost went to the dealer since it was my first inspection.



-Adam
 
What a scam

I've lived in Oregon and Washington now for almost 30 years, but grew up in North Central Pennsylvania. That &^(^ state inspection is a JOKE! I know on paper it looks OK, and I can hear all the do-gooders in the world who simply know this is the best system, "... after all if we were reasonable we wouldn't need a car anyway let along such a terrible menace as a noisy and polluting diesel truck!" I can remember my old grandfather taking the cars to the inspection station and I think it was every 6 months back in the 50's & 60's (not sure what it is today) but the system was perfect for ripoff artists. Out here in the Northwest, there are no safety inspections, and we aren't having unsafe vehicles that I can see - but then again we don't use hardly any salt on the roads either. Kinda nice to see a 40 year old rig that has a solid body - I mean Car that is.
 
Thanks for the responses. I guess I need to find a good dishonest shop :). This local shop even checked the fuel filler neck for the narrow unleaded GAS nozzle. I just smiled and the inspector put the cap back on.



I can't wait for this state to figure out how to do the exhaust opacity test. I may have to remove a few things to pass that.



I am north of Boston in a small town called Newburyport.
 
If they don't watch you when your doing this just flip the key off when you start to get alittle load on the engine.

If they are watching I would wire in a shutoff button hidden

someplace like between the seats. Down next to your hip.

Have fun & good luck

Bob
 
on my 01 I cut the wire used for the speed limiter, and it will easily kill the engine. it disables the circuit you are talking about.



its a white wire with an orange stripe. located above the valve cover, in one of the two connectors.



try it and see if it works on the older trucks too.



if it does, I simply ran two leads inside the cab and mounted a toggle switch inside the ashtray, to activate it when needed. :D
 
Hi Dave in Newburyport!

I spent a lot of time up there this summer (Black Bear Campground to be exact).

Anyway, I just went through the same inspection at a local station in Oxford MA, and when the guy said, "put it in first, and let of the clutch", I put it in second, and let off the cluth (because I never use first, it was like a freudian slip). The E-brake did hold enough to bog the motor, but I was being careful to release the clutch easy. Also, I had recently adjusted my rear brakes. Must have turned the star wheel 20 clicks on each wheel, so they needed it. Have you tried that ?

Also, maybe try third gear... it looks like you're going up into first ???

Ray
 
What if you took a chain with you and offered to hook it to the Tech's vehicle with his emergency brake on, to see if his vehicle could stall your engine while being towed by the Cummins? I bet not, especially with the 24v engines, when the computer automatically powers it up to prevent stalling. After dragging his vehicle around without you even touching the throttle, he might be willing to give you a sticker!
 
Originally posted by Jetson

What if you took a chain with you and offered to hook it to the Tech's vehicle with his emergency brake on, to see if his vehicle could stall your engine while being towed by the Cummins? I bet not, especially with the 24v engines, when the computer automatically powers it up to prevent stalling. After dragging his vehicle around without you even touching the throttle, he might be willing to give you a sticker!





I like it! The icing on the cake would be if the Tech drove a Superduty or Duramax, but then I might get carried away and add some throttle :).



I will use R Kelly's suggestion and pop it into 3rd instead of 1st. It is not easy to see from outside and it seems to work.
 
Originally posted by 15w40







I like it! The icing on the cake would be if the Tech drove a Superduty or Duramax, but then I might get carried away and add some throttle :).



I will use R Kelly's suggestion and pop it into 3rd instead of 1st. It is not easy to see from outside and it seems to work.



Have you considered visiting your nearby Registry and asking the inspectors there why a certified inspection station is using an invalid test for the parking brake? IIRC, the manual brake is intended to stop the vehicle in so many feet from a specific speed. It is *not* intended to keep the vehicle from moving at all.



Have you tried using the service brake and slowly letting the clutch in? Some foul (in some corners) odor and smoke *might* just convince him that the engine puts out more torque than he thinks it can.



With all due respect to you and your fellow residents, I'm glad I no longer reside in that fascist commonwealth! Even visiting feels kind-of icky.



Fest3er
 
I'm not sure about the 1998. 5's but my 1996 you can adjust the parking brake. I'm not sure when DC changed to the rear disc brakes and don't know how you would adjust those. But for drum brakes first make sure the rear brakes are adjusted first then look for the "equalizer" located just infront of the left rear wheel. It has a long bolt with a nut. Tighten the nut to adjust the parking brake. Just make sure not to over do it and cause the brakes to drag and get hot.



The only problem that I have is this seems to adjust the left rear and does little for the right. I was messing around with mine the other day and had them holding about equal on both sides. But they would not hold the truck much less do what you are discribing. I finnaly just adjusted the nut until I could put the truck in first gear and let the clutch out and it would hold. You would think that there would be and adjustment on the main cable and then use the equalizer to adjust the amount of pressure applied to each rear wheel. I have given some thought on making something like this myself.
 
What's it take ?

I think I may need to get my truck inspected in

MA in a month or so. What's it take to get one thru besides this parking brake thing. (I have an auto and it just slows it down a little when I forget to take it off :D ).

I may need a list of inspection stations guys who like Dodge diesels in the Melrose area :cool:
 
Here is a site I found on the Mass RMV site for the safety inspection.





http://www.state.ma.us/rmv/inspect/540cmr4/sec404a.htm





Fest3er is correct. There are other tests for the parking brake. I will make a copy for my next safety inspection.



Watch out about what you say about this great Commonwealth of Taxachusetts. If it wasn't for the schools and hospitals I think

everybody would leave.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
dont forget

The mandatory overpriced state regulated auto insurance :) Its tougher to leave if you cant drive out :)
 
Here in utah, I did a test and the guy was a diesel fan and I did the test with my blue chip box on full 50% still passed:D



Brake imbalanced was marginal though has to be that dammed right caliper:mad:
 
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