Another "check gauges" light thread

[TGVET]

For about a year now, my fuel gauge sits on empty after I fill up but only when I'm below 1/4 tank. (I rarely run it down that far but it does happen) I'll stop, turn the key off, restart and drive and it pops right up to full. Not sure if its the "in tank sensor" or what ?

Now, as of this week, my CHECK GAUGES light lit up out of the blue. NOT associated with the fuel gauge issue. I looked at all my gauges and upon second glance, I noticed my VOLTMETER was not functioning sitting at 0.

Mmm, OK. So, I turned ignition off after driving a bit and it came back up between 14 and 16 volts (normal) and the light was off. However, it is acting a little strange and intermittently reading a bit low <14 V and then going back to "normal". CHECK GAUGES only comes on when it was at ZERO.

My batteries are good, 3 years old. I replace my alternator about a year or so ago. Connections are good as far as I know.

Anyone experiencing similar issues ?

 

[cerberusiam]

Run the cluster test and see if you have any codes show win the odo window, then, get ready to feel the pain of buying a cluster.

 

[PWong]

I noticed my VOLTMETER was not functioning sitting at 0.

Mmm, OK. So, I turned ignition off after driving a bit and it came back up between 14 and 16 volts (normal) and the light was off. However, it is acting a little strange and intermittently reading a bit low <14 V and then going back to "normal". CHECK GAUGES only comes on when it was at ZERO.

Check passenger side battery voltage when you see low voltage from the stock gauge.
Your stock gauge reads the driver side battery voltage.
There was a BAD connection between the two battery positive posts if your cluster was OK.

 

[PWong]

For about a year now, my fuel gauge sits on empty after I fill up but only when I'm below 1/4 tank. (I rarely run it down that far but it does happen) I'll stop, turn the key off, restart and drive and it pops right up to full. Not sure if its the "in tank sensor" or what ?

I would do the fuel gauge sender.

 

[TGVET]

Had the alternator check at local battery shop where I got my Exide AGM's from now 3 years old. When I pulled in the volt gauge was below 14, batteries were reading 12.57 so plenty of DC still and the gauge was reading the same. Assumed at that point, it was the alternator.

Went to the store, got back in and volt gauge reading 15+ again (normal) and obviously charging the batts. I have to assume at this point, I have an intermittent failing alternator which is 18 months old "new", not a reman. I am suspicious though that there are or may be, some other "electrical/electronic gremlins" somewhere in the system.

 

[p-Bar]

05's are known to have cold solder joints on the cluster FYI

 

[PWong]

Check passenger side battery voltage when you see low voltage from the stock gauge.
Your stock gauge reads the driver side battery voltage.
There was a BAD connection between the two battery positive posts if your cluster was OK.

At this moment I am going to say its NOT the alternator.
From reading at forums many alternators were replaced for nothing.
Check your passenger side battery voltage with truck running (NOT key off) when the stock gauge reads low.
A high reading over 15V would confirmed that there was a BAD connection between the two batteries.

The two battery readings should be the same or at least very close all the time.
If both readings were equal and low than you have alternator issue.

 

[TGVET]

Battery shop did a V chk. on both by disconnecting the driver side +, engine off. Both read equal at that point. I'll do the check you mentioned and see WTF is up.
YES, I have read about solder joints on the cluster.
Been told by "others" as well that, the 05 to 07's were and or are plagued with electrical issues.

 

[TGVET]

Run the cluster test and see if you have any codes show win the odo window, then, get ready to feel the pain of buying a cluster.

Cerb, can you elaborate on that please ? How is that test performed ?
Thanks.

 

[cerberusiam]

Cerb, can you elaborate on that please ? How is that test performed ?
Thanks.

Hold down the trip meter reset button while you turn the key on, all the gauges should start moving around and lights illuminating. If there are any problems with the cluster it will show codes in the odo window.

 

[PWong]

chk. on both by disconnecting the driver side +, engine off. Both read equal at that point.

That's the way to check voltage of a stand alone battery, but NOT the way to check a live charging system that has two batteries connected in parallel with a crossover cable.
Any resistance between the two battery positive posts would cause the driver side battery undercharged (which you can see from the cluster) and passenger side battery overcharged.

 

[TGVET]

It was my alternator.
In March 2014 & 306K replaced my 9 yo. OEM with a Bocsh reman from Mexico.

Sept. 2016 & 71K on it and the brushes looked ancient completely worn out. Who knows what or where the "rebuild pack" came from. Could have been off another "recycled unit" sitting on the "tech's" bench and he or she decided, "eh, there's still some life left on these, I'll just install them on this unit"...

Sound unreasonable ? I would have thought so, but not after talking to two different Auto Electric shops (AMERICAN rebuilders) who've seen many "remans" come in with few miles on them like mine. I paid $146.00 for my reman alternator thinking at the time what could be so wrong with that, it's good as new and, 500.00 cheaper than list from the dealer.

I will be installing a new OEM from one of my local dealers where I have a biz account for 446.00 not 660.00 l

Couple years ago my H2O pump went out. I replace it with a part from NAPA made by the Commies. 14 months later I had to replace again with a NEW one from Cummins NW for just a few bucks more.

There's other threads addressing "re-manunufactured" stuff out there, injectors being one hot topic. Don't put "re-manufactured" sh** in your truck.

Period, end of story.