Another fuel cam question for the gurus

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BOMBS AWAY!! I have a question for you knowledgeable bombers out there. I'm starting the bombing process- so far I have taken advantage of the group purchases available and have 215 injectors and a Kondolay valvebody and torque converter on their way. My question is as follows: I need to purchase a TST fuel cam plate and was wondering which one to go with along with the above mentioned mods. Will a afc spring kit be needed? After a 4,500 mile trip pulling a travel-trailer through the mountains of Colorado, Utah, and Wyoming, stock just doesn't cut it. #ad
I still haven't figured out what to do about the exhaust and intake side of it (or what to do when the wife sees the Mastercard bill #ad
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). I forgot to mention I have a EGT and boost gauge installed. Thanks in advance.

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'98 4x4 12V QCab Auto (ready to BOMB)

[This message has been edited by johnrv4 (edited 09-25-2000). ]

 

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John: TST doesn't recomend going over 250 HP 635 lb of torque with the 98 auto trans. I tried the 250 HP plate in my 98 auto and it really did a great job. I went down to the #8 plate 230 Hp 605 Lbs of torque. I pull a 30 ft 5er that weighs almost 10k lbs. We all wish we had more power but do we wish to keep repairing those auto trans??

Good Luck and Happy Bombing. Gene-C

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98 12V SLT 2500 4X2 AUTO,3. 54 limt slip rear, QC SB Driftwood W/color match Topper, Full alum Boards,Delux OE mud guards, Bugflector,SS Wheel well trim,Reese 15K slider hitch,30 ft. Coachman 5er,TST #8 plate TC lockup Sw,Trans-go kit,Heavy duty TC. Isproo Boost,EGT,and Trans Temp Guages,Hitco Exhaust Blanket, Uniden CB.

 

[Archive]

Johnrv4,

I can't advise you on the cam plate dilema as I have ordered the 230/605 and changed my mind to the 250/650 even before the package has arrived. But without the experience of increased fueling in my Ram, I will say that you can go with a cheap alternative and upgrade with your exaust side. Here's what I did:

Keep in mind that I have torches and welders so this was fairly easy for me.

Removed the exaust starting at the cat. I gutted the cat by putting it on end on a block of wood and driving a steel stake through it for a half hour until the inner contents broke up enough to fall out. It was reinstalled.

I then slipped in a piece of 4" exhaust tubbing, the Walker (4" in and out) muffler, a 4"-5" adapter, 5" elbow, clamps and a tip from a Kenworth. Hanger were modified and welded on to support the system.

I went with 5" out from the muffler because it was what the truck shop had, not 4". No regrets though... it sounds awesome! The walker was only 90 bucks at a Napa parts store (Not all napa's have them, just the super Napa's in my area. ) I put the Walker 22572 on and as I just stated, it's a 4" in and out. I believe the 3" version is the 21471. . It sounds great too and is only about 60 bucks. Also, it would be cheaper to go with 4" out or keep the 3" existing system from the muffler back.

If you're planning to stay under 375hp or so, some of the posts from the "Gods" of diesel say that you wont need 4" all the way out for increased power but I think it would help with keeping things cool. Do a search on mufflers and you will come up with some killer info to aid in making your decisions.
Good luck,

Steve.

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98 qc, 12V, 4x4, slt laramie, 3:54 ls diff, 2YG pkg, Kelsey trailer brake control, dodge running boards, diamond plate bed rails, prime designs bug shields, silencer ring wind chime on porch, Raven cab-hi camper shell, psychotty air system, T/C lock-up switch, gutted cat, Walker muffler 22572, crome 5" tip from Kenworth stack, guages and 230/605 plate on order

[This message has been edited by Heetseeker_1 (edited 10-01-2000). ]