Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Another Power Steering Issue

[KIseminger]

Looked in previous posts but no luck.....



My power steering pump has been making more and more noise lately. I put some lube guard in and no improvement. If I try to turn my wheels while sitting still, it is extremly stiff. No leaks and the brakes work fine.



Any thoughts? PS pump, box, ?????... .....



-Kyle

 

[Texas Diesel]

Check your ball joints and all the other ball joints too. If all is well you might want to try a synthetic powering steering fluid, who knows. I use Royal Purple Syntheic Power Steering fluid in my 01, wifes 98 and my sons 03 Dakota.

 

[KIseminger]

I have not had a chance to check the ball joints as of yet. I can hear an occasional popping sound when I turn the wheel.



Anything else to look at while I am under there?

 

[KIseminger]

Checked the ball joints..... good



The tie rod end on the right side of the center link has a little up and down movement and the tie rod end attatched to the pitman arm has a small amount of movement (almost not noticable). I can only assume that this is the problem. These joint are supposed to have zero play in them correct?



Also, how long would it take to replace a rear axle seal on the Dana 80's w/ LS? It does not look that difficult to do (I think).



-Kyle

 

[Texas Diesel]

Since your ball joints arent frozen (and you dont have wide mudders) your sinutaition is referred to as "dry park", Chryslers name for not enough steering assist. Changing to synthetic fluid may help but I doubt it. Some have reported success shimming the pressure regulator in the PS for more pressure. Others have salvaged pressure regulators from 98 (and other years) and put them in their 01's with good success, that is the route I am pursueing.



There is a spec for ball joint/tie rod/trac bar play, it's not much.



RE: the rear axle, I assume you are referring the the pinion seal. The worst part will be getting the huge nut off the yoke. Leave the carrier in until you hammer it off. I used a 1" impact, came right off Most pinion seal (recurring leaks) seem to come from insufficient bearing preload. Mine was <20 in/lbs [rotation torque, seal removed] and it would start leaking after 15k miles on each new seal. The mechanic suggested reshimming it to 40 in/lbs. No leak so far.



If all you do is replace the seal, perhaps 30 minutes if nothing goes wrong. You will need a driver to replace the seal because the pinion shaft will be in the way. unless you remove it.

 

[KIseminger]

Deezul-



Sorry, I need to replace the left axle seal. It's leaking out through the brake rotor and starting to build up.



When I have someone turn the wheel I can feel a slight pop coinciding with the movement of the tie rod ends. The left has no play that I can see. I guess that's where I am coming up with my theory. I had heard of the dry park situation in the past, forgot about it though.



Please let me know how the shimming route goes.



-Kyle

 

[Texas Diesel]

Same story on the axle shaft, persistant leaks are cause by insufficient pre-load on the bearings. The person I talked to about it suggested tightening the nut 1/8 turn. That solved his problem, sure beats replacing seal after seal.



Describe the noise the PS pump is making.

 

[KIseminger]

It actually started a couple months ago when I started it up after a cold night. The pump always makes a little noise when it first starts up in the cold but this was much more than usual and it lasted much longer than usual.

It got better as the day went on but it it never really got back to the same. I can usually hear it at lower speeds (i. e. turning in to my driveway and turning corners) and every now and then it will get bad for split second while turning. And this is done under no braking.



As far as the axle seal goes; I am a visual person so help me out and I have never been in to these before.



Where is the nut that I have to tighten? Of course there is that big hub on the outside of the rotor. Is there a set of bearings in there or is it just the nut. Sorry, having a hard time visualizing where it is w/o a drawing.

 

[Texas Diesel]

Synthetic PS fluid will probably eliminate the noise on cold start up. Wont help dry park though.



PM me your email and I will send a .pdf file on the Dana 80, then we can talk using part numbers. Sure beats "it's the big nut w/the jam nut on the really big hollow shaft... "

 

[Texas Diesel]

RE: Dana exploded diagram.



#10 sets preload on the pinion bearings,

#53, #52,#53 tighten down on the axle TUBE, the axle SHAFT slides (floats) in side the wheel hub#43. There is a gasket (not shown) between #43 and #50. On Chrysler apps, #52,53,54 are replaced by a nyloc nut. The .pdf if for informational purposes only, order parts through Mopar. The other two files are a discussion I had on switching the hub seals to a Viton material (much better).