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Archived Another truck wont start

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Archived Truck is dead - No reading on voltmeter

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Started the truck up this morning, I think it was around -30 with the windchill. Truck started and went right into "cold start mode" with three cylinders. It didn't like being started one bit, but it did run, with 15psi of fuel pressure, and good oil pressure... ... ... . I was watching the gauges to make sure. I went back in the house, and could hear the truck dieing after about 5 min..... It sounded like it ran out of fuel. I have put 911 in the FASS fuel filter, in the water separator, and in the tank. I still cant get it to start. I see 15psi while i try to start it and the fass is running, The sending unit is mounted right at the injection pump, for my fuel pressure. I have a stock pick up in the tank, but a 1/2 fuel line from there to the injection pump. My question is would the fuel jell in the injector? Would it jell in the injection pump? Im kinda worried here because it died wile it was running. Will the fuel jell while the motor is running? Any help would be great. It should warm up by Monday, but I'm worried I hurt something in the motor!!!!!! Any ideas?
 
jabird

what is the actual ambient temp? windchill has no effect on machinery, other than it will cool it (the truck or fuel) faster than with no wind. seems strange that you would start, then gel up. does the fass fuel filter have a heater in it?

my truck wouldnt start a few weeks ago when it was -30F ambient. i had dead batteries too. (my new optimas were on back order :{ ) had to use a 100,000 BTU rediheater to heat up the engine bay, then jump it.

Since then my new batteries arrived and no more problems. of coarse its alot warmer now too!
 
I left my OEM FF housing in place when I installed my FASS. I plumbed the fuel back thru the FF so I would have the use of the fuel heater in these kind of months. Some people say it is a little more restrictive, but I say its atleast as good as stock.
 
Tried alittle more 911 in the tank this morning and waited one hour... ..... it still wouldnt start. So hands trembeling I went and bought a code spanner... ... ... . AAUUGGGHHHHH!!!!!!!!!!! I got a 0216 code... ... ... . GOING TO GO THROW UP now... ... . !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 
Jeff,



I would not throw in the towell on that vp-44 just yet. I would bleed the line between the fass and the vp-44. Then crack some injectors and see what you get.





Dennis
 
Dennis, you just dont want to have to drive up here to help change out the pump. HA HA... ... ! I did crack the number three and one injector... ... I got a few drips out of three and nothing out of number one. I figured Id just walk away from it till it gets up to 30 tommorrow. I was starting to get a little ticked of at the whole thing, and thats never good... ... ...
 
Ok, I cleared all the codes yesterday after I was still unable to start the truck. After multi times of trying to start this morning, with the number 1@3 injectors cracked open, I went and got the code scanner just to see what it would call up... ..... The 0216 is gone and didnt return, but now I have a 0336. Would this make any sense for the crank pos. sensor to have gone out? While the truck was running at idel in the driveway? Any help here would be great. I hate the idea of throwing parts at something till you get the right one!!!!!
 
The crank sensor will keep it from starting. If the ECM doesn't get a signal from the sensor that the engine is turning over, it won't "tell" the VP to inject fuel. I don't think a failed crank sensor would cause a running engine to quit though. The sensor should only be about $30-40 from a Cummins store, price depending on if they give you a discount. If you replace it, look at the end and see if it has been damaged. Sometimes the tone wheel comes loose on the crank and damages them. That leads to a bigger repair.



Kim
 
I've heard of others having that problem to. I believe some have been able to get it out by drilling and tapping it or maybe it was using a self tapping screw and then prying it out using the screw head. Soak it down with penetrating oil too if you haven't allready. If the sensor is too destroyed by the time you get it out to tell if the end of it was rubbed, take a screwdriver and go in through the sensor hole and see if you can move the tone wheel. You will probably need a mirror to see it. Hope this helps.



Kim
 
Im standing here with a smoke and a Rolling Rock trying to calm down..... Im so ticked right now. But ,Kim, thats what I was thinking about trying, was tapping it. Anybody else wanna chim in feel free
 
I got two 1/8 holes on each side of sensor and a 1-1. 25 self tapper in the sensor. Half a can of lube, and it still wont budge!!!!!!!!!!!! Any ideas?
 
How is the sensor fit into the block (besides tight)? O-ring or slip fit? Is there corrosion around it? Is the sensor body metal or plastic?



If metal, start with a heat gun and work your way up. If plastic, try a heat gun but you might have to get destructive.



Can you get 2 screws in it and twist it?



Call me on my cell, I'm at work.
 
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