Another turbo question - explanation needed

[Sticks]

My long term plans for my truck are obviously going to need a different turbo than OEM (high altitude towing).



I have been looking at the different after market retailers and their turbos and I keep getting hung up on this "Wastegated" and "Non-wastegated" housings, especially the price difference.



Question 1:

What is the difference between the "Wastegated" and "Non-wastegated" housings, and how does it apply to an ETH engine with the HX35-W?



Question 2:

Instead of buying a whole new turbo, could'nt I just get a new exhaust housing? I thought that I read somewhere that a new/different exhaust housing would be enough to decrease spool up time and lower EGT's,... or do I need an OEM exhaust with a new compressor housing.



If I can cut costs by swapping parts, all the better - unless it requires a variety of special tools (dials, calipers, Holset tool part # A-4716B* (*A-5708 if serial number adds up to an absolute value of 6).

 

[jrandol]

Hey Sticks,



Yep you can add a different housing to your HX for some EGT decrease and decrease drive pressures too. Difference in Wastegate and non is the Non has no wastegate on it or the orrfice or capabilities to add one, hence the price is less too.



For help on how to swap out exhaust housings or what you should get Piers or this guy www.htturbo.com would be good and they could give you the right recommendation. Of course you know, I have no affiliation with either of these to companies.

 

[Cooker]

If you have enough fuel, you will want a wategated housing as to not overboost your turbo.

 

[KLockliear]

On a 24v, you will see minimal to no EGT changes with just a turbine housing on the stock turbo. The only real way to lower EGT's is to get more air in, which means a bigger/more aggressive compressor and wheel.



Wastegated housings have the ability to keep the turbo from overspeeding. In any street application, we always use them.

 

[y-knot]

sticks,

I am no expert, but I did just switch out my stock 12cm2 housing for the 16cm2 housing. The advantage of the switch would be better flow of the exhaust, or less back pressure, about half what the stocker had. Also on the lower end on the rpm range you might give up alittle power, but you gain on the upper rpm's. Just through observation in my own truck, where going down the interstate I use to run 8-10 psi, now i run 2-3 psi. The turbo does not have the lag I thought it might, actually it spools up very fast, faster then before. I loss somewhere around 75-100 degrees on the EGT with the 4" exhaust( true 4" exhaust), and with the new turbo housing I lost another 50-100 degrees on the EGT. Time will tell if those number remain consistant. The truck seems to like the changes, it's very responsive. I am installing a complete new set of guages, and will be monitoring more areas, so I will post later and let everyone know. Hope this helps, good luck.

 

[KLockliear]

Y-not, you have a 12v... . your findings will not hold true on a 24v.