Anti-lock Brakes

[AWallace]

I have a friend with a 93 2500 2x4 that has problems with his anti-lock brakes sometimes they work find and then he hits them and they lock up he has almost rearended the car in front of him before this problem has existed from new he has been to the stealers several times with no success they won't to change ever thing and charge him for it. Has any one had that problem before and what is the solution.





95 2500 2x4 stock

 

[LWells]

Anti Lock Brakes

I have had a problem with anti-lock brakes since I bought my 92 new. What I experienced was: When traveling at low speeds, 5-35 mph, if I slammed on the brakes the antilock would pulsate, engage-release-engage-release... . as it should, but instead of both the engage and release times being very short (sub second) the release time would be looong - over a second.



The effect is, if someone stops short in front of me in traffic (low speed) and I jam the pedal, the brakes grab, then release and I coast way too far before they grab (engage) again. I went through multiple visits to the dealer but nothing ever changed, even when replacing the antilock controller. I drove with the antilock disconnected but that was worse.



I am convinced there is a design flaw. As such I reported it to NTSB but I guess there were not many/any others?



I have just resigned myself to living with crappy brakes and hoping I don't rear end anyone soon.

 

[Paychk]

I had a problem with mine, particularly on damp roads, I thought it was worn out tires, so I swapped them, no change. I then put 500 lbs. of weight in the back end and WOW!! What a difference it made, the anti lock cycles, you can feel the valve really work. The only thing I can figure out was with the dually and no weight in the back the traction on the tires was gone before the sensor could react to the slowing tires. Now it just works, also when I pulled the weight out and ran empty it still worked much better than it ever did in the past. The weight in the back still is the best way to go IMHO.



PS Something else that I wonder about was, what the effect would be of, disengaging the clutch so that the rear axle could get a true reading on wheel traction, without the rest of the drive train influencing it and throwing it off?



(edit sp)

 

[93 1TON]

My dually always pulled hard to the right. The right side pads were almost worn down but the left side not. I changed the pads and put on a new diff. sensor on top of the rear diff. ($103. and 5min. ). I had to stop very quick one morning. Only had time to shift to neutral and SLAM the brakes- no pull to either side. Although, when I do that, the brakes stay on for literally a second without my foot on the pedal. Well atleast it goes on even. Richl

 

[BushWakr - RIP]

If I remember the manual correctly, they are not functional below 30 MPH. At least that's what I recall.

One of the main problems is the elect. connection(s) on the diff. housing. It gets dirty/pitted and doesn't make good contact. Also there is a sensor that can fail or go "intermittent" on you as well.

That would be a good place to start.



Bob.