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Any body looking for a real bad deal!!

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OCTOBER SHOWDOWN in CA

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If you want to get a good deal on a new 2001 you need to check out McKinney Dodge in Easley,SC. They have a great price on these babys,BUT! BUT! do not,I repeat, do not by no means expect to get a good trade in price!
They had the balls to tell me my"97 3500 4x4 sport package with only 36000 miles and I mean she is in ment condtion. They said the most it would bring on the lot is 22500. 00 and so all they would offer on trade was 18900. 00!! Can you believe this crap!!
And also any service work that you need ,you better hope you can tell them what is wrong and how to fix it.
Can anybody tell me if there is any good services people in any areas I can go to.
Please give me a response!
This is not the first F--king they have tried push off on me and several other people that I know!!!!

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diesaldual@aol.com '97 3500 4x4 dually! RED all over,3. 54 ring,stainless bed caps,tail gate cover,gull wing tool box, and to much more!!
 
Dealers work like this. Either they'll give you a generous trade in, and little or nothing off the sticker, or they'll wack the sticker way down, and you'll get insulted on the trade in value.
They ARE going to make their money on BOTH trucks. Make no mistake about it.
Dont feel bad. When I was shopping for my truck, the dealer in town was doing a MVA (market value adjustment) of +$4000. 00 OVER STICKER !!! When a salesman approached me, I told him he was nuckin futs. He said "I can sell it for sticker" I sarcastically told him how generous he was, then went on to tell him that the sticker was a starting point. Not a final price !!
I went to a dealer 1/2 hr away, and got +$4000. 00 off sticker.
Pays to shop around. I love my truck, but some of these dealers think they got the goose that layed the golden egg.

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98 Quad cab 4X4 2500 12 valve,5 speed,3. 54 rears, 8' bed. Boost and egt gauges but basicly stock except for a "properly adjusted" AFC. Cat in the garage. Uniden HR 2510, Texas Star 1200 amp. 59,000 Mi as of 10/21/00.
NRA life member. High power/IDPA.
 
With auto dealers you have to beat them at their own game. In your case work out a deal with the trade in,when it's time to sign the final papers tell them you decided on no trade in,sell your truck elsewhere. Other times it's the opposite,wait till the last minute to pop them with a trade in. You should always wait till the last minute then walk out,it can be good for thousands of dollars at times. With this method I've walked away with rigs at dealer price many times,it gets so they want to sell you a car so bad that they forget about making a profit.
 
These car salesmen are sent to classes so they can get every cent they can. I walked away from all dealer that put dealer's market value on truck and concentrated on the dealers that had only manufactures stickers on truck.
Patriot is right they try to make money on both.
illflem is correct too. They like to play games. So find out their best moves(lines),there are many articles and books out that discuss many of their ploys.
I love it when they say the dealer on makes so much money on a vehicle(that's how much the sales team can make on you not the profit for the dealership).
Also there are two invoices one that comes with the vehicle and one the dealer recieves after selling vehicle.
The sticker on the window is the best way to figure the price you want to pay( or the commision/profit salesman/dealer you think they should make).
With talking with salesman over the years base price of vehicle(depending what it is) dealer should have 20 to 25 percent mark up. Options can go up to 100 to 150 percent mark up,once again depends on the option. I usually figure 75 percent across board knock it down to 25 to 30 percent as fair mark up. Mass production means mass buying, that brings the cost down for manufacture and dealer.
The bigger the dealer the more overhead, they need to make money not just by selling a lot of cars but a decent profit margin also.
 
I took my 98 CTD to the Dodge Dealership in Lugoff, SC in May... they wanted MSRP on a 2000 RAM 3500 4x4 QC CTB fully loaded ($38K at time)... but tried to tell me that there was very little market in this area for my style of truck (Reg Cab)... offered me $18K and the truck was only 14 months on the road w/34K miles and brand new 33. 6" Dunlaps... Retail on the truck was $25,900 according to Kelley Blue Book... they wouldn't budge on either price... funny thing was, I had bought my Quad Cab there last year (wife's) and got a great deal... go figure?? It's Dang GREED if you ask me!

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Rob's 98 Ram2500 SLT RegCab 4X4 12-valve Cummins, Automatic, 4. 10 Axle w/ Lim-Slip, Trailer Tow Pack, 285/75R16 BFG All Terrains on 16x8 Alcoa Aluminums... Silencer Ring disappeared; CAT & MUFF gone, 3" straight pipe, decent paint next... . 54,000 miles; Wife's 99 Ram1500 SLT QC 4X4 w/360 eng, Automatic, Trailer Tow Pack; STOCKER! 43,000 miles - both daily drivers. If your STROKIN, your CHOKIN... on CUMMINS smoke!!!
 
For what its worth:
not for people paying cash.

Go to the dealer prepared.
Get the invoice price of the vehical you want from some place like the Kelly blue book, autobytel or whatever the latest is. Include all options on your truck. Include shipping and tax for your city. Check the wholesale trade value on your truck and find out your payoff.
If you can't live with the trade in value then sell it yourself, the dealer will not give you top dollar for yours and sell his for nothing.

Decide if you can afford the truck
33k x 21. 5, $709mo for 5 years = $42540. 00

use the payment calculator on the web site to find out what the payment should be at an interest rate you would be comfortable with.
make sure you include trade value and payoff. You only pay tax on the differance.

You go to the dealer with the payment already worked out. Now you are ready to bargin!
Find the same truck on the lot and go for a drive. You wanna buy it? OK
The salesman sits you down, checks your credit and then pulls out the four square.


trade value////////////I/////money down//////
$2. 00//////////////////I/////////////////////
dont care//////////////I/////////NONE////////
whatever its worth/////I/////////////////////
///////////////////////I/////////////////////
IIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIII
price//////////////////I///////////payment///
$48000. 00//////////////I/////////////////////
dont care/////////////I////////////$700. 00//
full sticker///////////I/////////////////////
///////////////////////I////////////60 months
///////////////////////I/or whatever yours is
///////////////////////I////////worked out to

You tell him exactly what you want. $700. 00 month for 60 months (he'll come back 15 times to tell you that he can't go below $1200. 00 a month) as long as you get your payment You don care if you get $2. 00 for your trade, you dont have money down(if you do you should have that worked into the payment before you go to the dealer), you dont care how much he's selling the truck for, you just want to spend $700. 00mo for 5 years.
If you go up $10 in payments it cost you $600. 00 more for your new truck. so dont sway too much.
You know what the dealer paid so decide if he is going to give you a good deal or not. If he dosn't go down to your payment get up, thank him for his time and walk out.
This is about the time the real negotiations start. they'll call you back in and the manager gets involved. Just stick to your payment and tell him thats your budget. Maybe you'll go up $10 maybe you wont. That depends on if you want to let him make some more money or not.
If he agree's to your payment do the paperwork.
READ THE BUYERS ORDER VERY CAREFULLY to make sure he hasn't played with the numbers, you alredy know what the bottom line should be, and dont be afraid to ask or even walk out if you think the numbers are not right. You dont really care how much he gave you for a trade as long as you got your payment and he takes the old truck off your hands.
When you go to finace, sit down listen to the shpeil of how you should get this and that for just a few dollars a month more, then tell the finance manager SIMPLE INTEREST and NO ADD ON'S. Dont sign anything thats going to cost you more money. Walk out of there paying $700. 00 month or dont take the deal. It's not yours till you drive it off the lot so spend the time and do it right and dont be afraid to walk.
Note: you have given the dealer enough to make a short deal it's going to be up to him if he wants to take it or not.
Go home with confidence that you got a good deal.
P. S. If you want the extended waranty financed in with your payment check the price on tdr and adjust your payment acordingly.

ADD IT UP
YOUR PAYMENT X HOW MANY MONTHS = PRICE YOU PAID remember you have to pay interest.
10% x $33,000. 00 = $3,300. 00 year first year. http://www.calcbuilder.com/cgi-bin/calcs/AUT5. cgi/volition
http://www.autobuyingtips.com/


[This message has been edited by 446 (edited 10-22-2000). ]
 
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I had a problem last week when I was turned down by the Chrysler Arbatration. I was so fed up with my truck. . "the brakes and fuel sender". . The Chrysler Arb basically told me to **** up a rope and I had to live with or die in my truck. Depressed as I was I set out to trade my pretty red 98 4x4 quad cab in on a NEW SUBURBAN. to my supprise, not only did they come back with a $17000. insult, they wanted top dollar for their car. I was determaned never to buy another Chrysler product because of how they have NO CUSTOMER SERVICE and as for this 5 Star crap... that is what it is CRAP. . Anyways, I just wanted to cut my losses and be rid of this truck that I was willing to bend over and let them give it to me. BUT!!!! The salesman went into his office and made a few phone calls. 5 min later he returned just as I was signing the purchace agreement for this $45,000 Suburban and agreeing to take 17k for my baby when out of the blue he said " we dont want your trade" /... . WHAT! We mad a few calls, most likely to a dodge dealer and got the service history. They said that their wholesaler wouldnt even take it. They suggested that I take it to the crappy part of town and park it with the keys in it and let someone steel it. All I could say is kiss my @ss and walked out. This guy had such a nerve to come running out to tell me that I had already signde the sales argreement and I was legally binded as per Calif law to buy his Suburban. He said their was no "cooling off" period. Im just glad I didnt have my gun. I was told that he had my signeture and they could take me to court to force the purchace of their Surbaban. At this point I was SO PISSED I grabbed the contract out of his hands and shreaded it in front of him. I did in fact keep the pieces and left for my 150 mile drive home. I will drive my Dodge until it drops. I have the 7/100,000 waranty and plan on using every bit of it! When this truck finally croaks, I will go back to my 72 Chevy 3/4 4x4 , which I might add has over 400,000 miles on it and Im the origional owner. I feel that my chevy is just broke in now and I will just keep it parked in the barn until such a time that I retire my Dodge. Forget the 2001 truck, keep your 97 and drive it till it drops and put the money saved in the bank! You can thank me later!
Good luck!!!

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98 Quad Cab 4X4 Cummins Automatic Totally loaded Minus fuel sender plus right brake pull, no extra charge!

[This message has been edited by Phil Johnson (edited 10-22-2000). ]

[This message has been edited by Phil Johnson (edited 10-22-2000). ]
 
The above advice may be right on but how many of us want to go through all that B. S. and smoke mirrors game to spend our hard earned money. The auto sales business has earned the crappy reputation they deserve from screwing people for decades. Why should a dealer make $500 from one customer and then thousands from the next guy that isn't as good a negotiator for the same vehicle? I hate car salesmen and because of this bought my last vehicle from a broker. I checked out the broker beforehand by calling the Better Business Beaureau and found he has been in business since 1974 without a single complaint. Here in Canada the Better Business Beaureau is an agency that protects consumers from scams and poor business practices. I then paid a visit to the broker and found he deals with almost all makes of vehicles. He opens his books on the vehicle you want and goes through the prices showing options and the list prices verses the wholesale price. What you end up paying is $200. over invoice without the B. S. I saved about $4000 over the sticker price and am happy with that considering I didn't step on a dealership lot to make my purchase. I have had absolutely no problem getting my truck serviced at any of the dealerships I have visited. It may be worth looking at this painless approach. One thing to keep in mind is trading your vehicle in doesn't work with this methood. Selling privately is the answer in you want to go this route.

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98 2500 SLT, QC 12V, 4X4, Auto, 4:10's, SB, 285 BFG's on Mickey Thompson challengers, LSD, Alpine alarm, Tekonsha brake controller, 5th wheel hitch, DeeZee stainless boards, Stull billet grille, MTX Thunder sub enclosure, Kenwood amp, Trans. temp gauge, CB radio, White/Driftwood, Camel interior. BINFORD TOOLS decal on rear window
 
Interested in buying a Dodge Truck. Look up "Mark Roberts" Dodge dealer on the web. Some place in Ok. He will explain how the Dodge invoice works and the 3% hold back built into each truck. He will sell you at his cost invoice, and he lives off the 3%.
dean

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1993, W350, 70K miles, two toned paint, mopar tack, rhino liner,LE, club cab, 22mpg.
 
Another good source for an internet sale is the sales/lease consultant I bought my '99 quad cab from... "Dean Watts"... 891 Highway #1 South, Lugoff, SC 29078 (803-438-9160). As stated before in my post, I had a hard time w/my trade... however, he was on vacation and w/hindsite being 20/20, I should have waited... I would have gotten about $3K more for my trade and gotten the truck I wanted for Dealer Invoice +2%... Internet inquiries seem to be the way things are going... just try to arrange your own financing with your local bank/credit union prior to negotiations... Money Talks... B. S. walks... just my two cents...
P. S. I am not in any way getting any type of kickback for what I just posted... just passing on information that might help someone else from getting screwed like I would have if I would have let a salesman let me get screwed out of about $8000-- #ad



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Rob's 98 Ram2500 SLT RegCab 4X4 12-valve Cummins, Automatic, 4. 10 Axle w/ Lim-Slip, Trailer Tow Pack, 285/75R16 BFG All Terrains on 16x8 Alcoa Aluminums... Silencer Ring disappeared; CAT & MUFF gone, 3" straight pipe, decent paint next... . 54,000 miles; Wife's 99 Ram1500 SLT QC 4X4 w/360 eng, Automatic, Trailer Tow Pack; STOCKER! 43,000 miles - both daily drivers. If your STROKIN, your CHOKIN... on CUMMINS smoke!!!

[This message has been edited by Yuppie Redneck (edited 10-22-2000). ]
 
Son of a gun... just called "Dean Watts" on the phone... he can get you a new truck to order for Dealer Invoice!! Can't say about the trade but w/0. 9% financing for 60 months if you have great credit... maybe now is the time to trade up... . just remember that your trade will be worth more if sold privately... but the financing on top of a great price for a new truck may just be worth the lower trade price... just another two cents worth!!
 
Hill
A discount dealer is good to deal with but he still wont give you more than he can get at the dealer auction for your trade.

Brian
A broker is also good to deal with but there isn't a broker out there that will take a trade in. (as far as I know) and they usually also charge $500. 00 to $800. 00 for their service. I would spend the 4 hours at the dealer for that money.

Phil
this dealer was probably ready to ream you a new you know what. Do your reserch and find a good high volume dealer and dont be afraid to go to several till you find the right deal. I shopped for six months for my last purchase. These guys dont make money unless they sell something. Also a lease might be a good way to go for you. you can absorb the differance over 3 years get lower payments and then turn the truck in and start from scratch. I dont think I would do a lease for more than 3 years.

I think the bottom line is, if your looking to save 4 or 5 thousand dollars you are going to have to work for it and if you owe more on your truck than the trade value then you will realy need to to make the best deal possible so you can get it all financed and not be in the same hole next time, or try and sell your trade outright. These guy's do this for a living go prepared to do battle and fight for your money.

and always cry poor.

Also go at the end of the month when they have to show the owner of the dealership how much money they've made for him this month. A car dealerships managers job is never secure, if he dosn't produce , he's out.
 
These are considered by me to be major purchases and when faced with purchasing a new one several years ago, I put out via snail mail an invitation for bid with all the added equipment I wanted. I sent out about 75 request for quotes and got about 35 responses and eventually bought from a dealer 200 miles from home to a low over head rural dealer because the purchase price drove me his way. No sales pitch, no razel dazel to deal with just a purchase order faxed to my banker and a bus ride to pick up the rig. Stephen's won ton dually in Sanger CA.
 
I am amased at all the screwing that goes on with these dealers. I guess it all comes down to if you trade you have to be ready to take a loose. Also I've notice that if you owe money on your trade seems like they always offer a little more on it.
I just felt like what this dealer offerd me was a screwing.
I had seen the truck I wanted on lot and stopped in to check her out. . Key point here now. My best bud who was with me purchased a truck right there on the spot AND he traded a'95 1500 4x4 and they gave him 12500 for his truck and it was a lemon and the dealer knew it.
I guess I was hoping that my ride would bring a little(lot)more than the cheesy offer they came back with. And my ride is paid for(just wanted a quad cab)
But, screw the dealers and their crappy service dept. Like I said the '97 is paid for and I've just about got the kinks out and she has been good to me, so I guess the ride will remain a member of the family.

Warning::::do not unless no other way out use this McKinney Dodge service dept if you want to get it right!!
You guys have helped me fix everything that they blow way out of kilter.
Just dont have a good service center around here!

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diesaldual@aol.com '97 3500 4x4 dually! RED all over,3. 54 ring,stainless bed caps,tail gate cover,gull wing tool box, and to much more!!
 
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