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Any electricians in the house?

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1998.5 dodge 3500 electrical

Buc-ee's

GAmes

TDR MEMBER
Last week my microwave quit working. Replaced the internal fuse, it blew, so I figured 18 years is as long as I can expect. Today it was the coffee maker. I took the bottom off and one of the little round things on the circuit board is burned in two. Since both are plugged into the same house circuit I checked the voltage 128.9 volts. I checked a few others in the house and my shop which has it's own CB panel. They are 124.8 volts. How does one circuit that is wired exactly like the one next to it get more voltage and more importantly is it something I have to worry about?
 
Length of wire will cause voltage drop as with how many connections in the run. Sounds like the electric company is running a little high on the voltage. Does your meter have a Hz setting? you also need to check a 240 volt circuit to see what the total is on both legs. If you can see what the Hz and voltage is doing. Take a pick and maybe reach out to them and ask whats going on. They may or may not know. Good luck.
 
I bought a book and ran all the wires in the house during a remodel about 22 years ago. It was an old farmhouse without one grounded outlet, aluminum wire going to the stove, all in all a fire waiting to happen. To say I over engineered it would be an understatement. If the code called for 12 gauge wire for the length of the run I used 10. There isn't a strand of 14 gauge in the house. The kitchen has four circuits. One for the refrigerator and freezer, and three separate ones for the outlets. The lighting circuit is shared by two or three rooms. Two outlets that are four ft apart show a difference of 4 volts. One is on one circuit, one on another. I just checked the 50 amp RV hookup on the side of the house. One leg is 123.3 volts the other is 127.6 I would have to take the front of the CB panel off to see which circuits are connected to the side reading higher. I do not have a Hz setting.
 
I'm not an electrician, but I'm with Topzide; it seems odd to have one leg that much over the other. I'd call the provider, they may be unaware, I wonder if there is something haywire in the transformer that is not down converting the high voltage correctly? At my home / shop, I am the only resident on a 1/2 mile long line that has only on transformer, so I clearly could be the only one impacted if something went wrong with it.
 
@GAmes, Make that call! that's about 30%+ in difference! That's to far of a difference between the legs! Could be failing equipment or loose connections. Could be an animal on top of transformer that met it's demise causing issue. Good idea to go a gauge higher on wire to prevent voltage drop. Keep us updated.
 
You have a problem with a neutral some where. If you're comfortable doing this, remove the outer panel from your main breaker. Turn off the main. test incoming voltage on line side of main breaker. it should read 120 vac to Neutral one one leg and 120 vac to Neutral on the other leg. the test between both hot legs, should be 240 VAC. these numbers (volts ) can be 5% higher or lower.

If within this tolerance, you can turn off (open ) all branch circuit breakers except the one for your microwave..I would unplug any appliance with a circuit board in it and get a hair dryer or toaster and plug it in an outlet that had your coffee maker.

Now you can close the main breaker and test the voltage on the load side of main cb. you should get 120/120/240 per same test as before. now turn on you hair dryer and to the same test at the load side of main. if there is a neutral problem one hot leg will rise and the other will fall , example 112 -N. 128-N 240 H-H. There has to be a load (draw) on one leg to confirm neutral is working or not.
If this is result of your test, now you have to determine if it's on that branch circuit or incoming power supply from the power company.

The easy way is to call your power company and tell them to come and test for incoming power neutral problems..example, corroded connections , severed conductor, They should be able to tell you if it's their issue or yours.

You do not want to defer this too long if it's a power company neutral problem. It will affect your major electrical appliances that have circuit boards as they are sensitive to loss of neutral.

Keep us posted.
 
You have a problem with a neutral some where. If you're comfortable doing this, remove the outer panel from your main breaker. Turn off the main. test incoming voltage on line side of main breaker. it should read 120 vac to Neutral one one leg and 120 vac to Neutral on the other leg. the test between both hot legs, should be 240 VAC. these numbers (volts ) can be 5% higher or lower.

I have a 253 reading between the two hots and a 124/128 on the two sides. 128 is more than 5% as is the 253. Is it time to call the power company? The transformer is about 30 ft from the main breaker box.
 
Update. I have another multimeter so I took readings with it. 248, 123/125 Now I'm wondering how to find out which one is most correct.
 
I have several makes, but when I need a critical measurement, I pull out the Flukes! I can calibrate my others against them to see how they read and only when they're needed, do I dig out the case and put batteries in them. As they say; "buy once, cry once"! Mine set me back around $300 for the set. DVM and clamp DVM set. Well worth having a good DVM as in any tool! Hope it was a meter issue and not a wiring issue. Good luck.
 
Those are the readings at the lines running into the main breaker box from the pole with nothing in the house turned off.

Ok, now with your borrowed meter, go to the outlets that were suspect and plug in a toaster and take readings on the other side of that outlet.. take readings from hot to neutral and hot to ground..Report back.

After reading the original post , you state that you rewired the home, did you "pigtail " the outlets or "daisy chain" them?
 
My mission tomorrow is to secure a Fluke All outlets on any given circuit breaker are daisy chained.
 
My mission tomorrow is to secure a Fluke All outlets on any given circuit breaker are daisy chained.

Ok, great info!!
I would start at the first outlet in the circuit, remove it from the box and check for loose connections, and move to the next one downstream. we're getting close.;)
 
After getting the reading from the second multimeter I'm wondering if this hasn't been a false alarm. I'll find out for sure tomorrow.
 
if you're getting flukes, make sure you get a model w/ min/max recordings... that's how you'll find your problem. I do this stuff for a living on 480AC down to digital controls and chase noise problems on drives all the time. An 87 is a good meter but I usually work w 189's & 289's. Overkill for the house.

Burned appliances are usually due to a voltage drop causing higher currents across fixed loads. That's a loose connection, though I was home once when a sensed a drop in the lights. I got my 189 on the circuit, and kept it there for a few hours. Watched it drop to 48VAC. A min/max reading will catch that. I was catching a loose connection in a transformer from edison down the street that actually started a fire in my neighbors house... literally. They had a cheap surge protector for their computer stuff that caught fire and burned their carpet. I talked w the edison guy that showed up & he copped to it when I explained who I was and what I did, and no, I didn't have a claim since I shut down the house as soon as it happened. Otherwise, that's when appliances burn up.

You'd want to measure each leg coming into the house, or pick a leg on a suspect breaker. You need to put the meter at the end of the branch on the last outlet since a loose connection can be anywhere along that branch. With only one meter, you'd work your way back on the daisy chain. It's either that, or start in the middle, and work your way forward or back, each time "cutting the deck in half". I've done this kind of stuff using 8 or 9 meters at a time on complex circuits. Industrial 480AC down to low voltage drive boards. If you burned something plugged into a particular outlet, it's easiest to cut off a cord, strip it, plug it in and throw you leads across the wires and then set the min/max on AC. You'll get a tone every time a new minimum or maximum voltage gets recorded. Do it that way, and you won't disturb the problem by moving wires around. It's pretty important not to disturb the problem by not moving anything until you narrow it down to a tight area. Once you ID it, then you can start opening stuff up. I've had meters on circuits for days trying to catch an intermittent problem. A word of warning; I work on this kind of stuff hot, and situational awareness needs to be very high.

my money would be on a loose connection or a pigtail connectors w 2 or three wires in it that's heated up and cooled enough times to cause thing to loosen up inside. Maybe a broken wire that arcs when it gets hot, then cools down and makes up. Seen that too. Hopefully there aren't any pigtail connections behind walls, in between outlets. I've seen that done... splices where there shouldn't be. A fluke w a min/max recorder will find it, and two or three meters make it go a lot faster. At any rate, a good meter is a good investment.

good luck.
 
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A fluke 87 is over $450 on sale. I don't think so. I'll be happy with an accurate voltage read out. No one in town sells Fluke so I'm forced to order one. I'm sure the 15B will fill all my needs.
 
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