Any free torque HP gains, VE pump, no muffler

[GMichaels]

I would like to get the stock 93 400ftlb motor up to 500 ftlb. I have read the preformance section, I could not tell how much gain you would get for each mod.



Can you turn up (my lingo) the pump and make adjustments and get HP gains, or do you need to change injectors and turbo housing as well? I do not understand the adjustment on the VE pump yet but will keep reading.



If I remove the muffler and put in a K&N airfilter about how much gain could I expect?



Whats the biggest bang for the buck?



Pyro before or after turbo... I have heard you might ding the turbo if your not carful if before.



Ok I will stop posting for a while so I don't become a pain.



Thanks



1993 5spdget 3:54 18mmturbo

 

[phillips5]

Never stop posting that is what the sight is all about. You can get 500 pounds of torque just by turning in the full load stop screw 2 turns. A pirometer should be installed to moniter exaust temp. Also a boost gage . I have no muffler on either truck this helps quicker spoolup(rapid boost gain) maby even a fiew hp gains. There are other mods for ferther gains. Check the stickys at the top of the page there are a lot of step by step things.

 

[AlK]

One of the limiting factors on our trucks is the injection pump. Yes, they can be turned up to produce a fair amount of power, but the downside is that it will affect the longevity of the pump and these puppies are not cheap. First thing you should do is get some gauges (pyro & boost). For the way we use our trucks most guys have the thermocouple installed pre-turbo. In my opinion you get the most bang for your buck by changing the injectors and advancing the pump and increasing the max rpm limit to around 2900.

This is just the beginning.

 

[NIsaacs]

GMichaels, turning up the pump is easy and free! This makes a big difference in power, how much I'm not sure. I have 50hp Bully Dog inj. , #16 hsg. , and pump turned up. I would guess, based on 10hp per pound of boost @27 psi I have 270hp. If you take HPx2 I have about 540lbs TQ. , this is flywheel power. With this power level the stock air filter should be ok, just remove the plastic tube that runs from the filter housing to the front clip. I like post turbo pyro's. I seem to be in the minority on this, so use your own judgement. I feel with the split turbo inlets on the Cummins, 2 or 3 cyl temp is more guess work than the 6 cyl post turbo. Don't go more than about 2" down from turbo, also most e-brakes have provisions for the thermocouple. I run my rigs 950-1000 deg. , all day long if need be. Again, with this power level removing the muffler will not make much difference in power, but sounds better. Good luck with your truck, you have a good one! It sounds like you are already very knowledgeable about trucks.



"IF IT AIN'T CUMMINS POWERED, IT AIN'T A TRUCK"



NICK

 

[GMichaels]

nick,



I have read that the injectors for the 93's were downsized and turning up the pump would not have much effect. I just saw that last night, not sure if its true. Plus the truck is stock, stock turbo, injectors.



But even if I could make 50lbft turning up te pump it would be worth it.



Oh whats a 3spdSpiceraux ? where did you get your gauges



Thanks

 

[Philip]

Oh whats a 3spdSpiceraux

Its an older model aux trans that mounts behind the orginal trans. Most I have seen were UD>D>OD. I am not sure of the ratio's in them. The bad part is it requires its own shift linkage. If you can get the shift linkage fabed and working right good luck. The factory setups had problems with the shifter setup. LOL





Just about any vender listed on this site can supply gages and mounting systems. I bought mine from a local speed shop.

 

[NIsaacs]

GMichaels, you are right about the later 1st gen moters responding to pump adjustments. The 89 to early 91 responded better than the 91. 5 to 93 models. Mine is a D250 late 91, sometimes called the 91. 5. It did not respond like my Ford with the 180hp ctd, but they do respond and its free!



Philip is right about the 3spd Spicer aux. trans in my Ford. They were used in the 1940's to late 1960's. Mine is the 5831 series, 25% under, direct, 20% over aprx. , some had a deep under of 2 two 1. They were used in medium duty trucks, most makes. I don't recommend using them, but I had it so I used it, Its fun to shift 15 gears!



Philip, you gave away your age by knowing about my old 3spd trans, laugh at me will ya, ha ha, to you too!! Thats what's so neat about this site, people are funny and most are very knowledgeable.



"IF IT AIN'T CUMMINS POWERED, IT AIN'T A TRUCK"



NICK

 

[Philip]

Philip, you gave away your age by knowing about my old 3spd trans

Your right there. Most people under 30 wouldn't know about them unless someone in the family happened to have an old truck around.



Or in my case working as a U. S. A. F. auto mechanic. the USAF liked to buy IHC trucks with those nasty little no shifting boxes in them. I was one of the people that had to try keeping them shifting. Just think of a 1964 IHC VF-195 twin screw tractor. 460 C. I gas engine with a 5 spd and the browny box in it. Its the stuff nighmares are made of. The USAF bought a bunch of them. :{

 

[cerberusiam]

GMichaels, if you have a stock muffler and stock tail pipe replacing that and th air filter is probaly good for 50ft\lbs without turning the pump up. The stock mufflers were narrowed to 2. 5 inches inside and the tail pipe where it went over the rear axle was crushed half closed to cut the power down. The IC trucks made much better power than the non-IC so Dodge elected to detune them rather than beef the drive line.



The stock air filter and air intake is totally inadequate and is also a detune. If you will stay within stock specs for tuning and at or under 20 psi boost you can probably run the K&N and gain performance without other issues. Otherwise, go with a BHAF filter and modify the rad support for some better air flow.



The 93 with an 18cm housing probably responded better than the other IC trucks due to a better sized housing. The 21 would work but you had to give it a lot of fuel early to get it to spool. The injectors on the IC trucks were slightly smaller in diameter and delivered a little less fuel because the IC made up for the power loss. On any of the 1st gen engines if turning the full power screw in did not affect performance there were other factors involved. More fuel equals more power all other things being equal. Some pumps did not respond to have the power srew turned and that is because they were probably already marginal or ont heir way out.



With some air\exhaust mods and some fuel mods it quite easy to get these engines to 220 HP 500 TQ. What it does to the fuel delivery system is the question and that will vary from vehicle to vehicle.

 

[dpuckett]

I have had 5 IC trucks, and my current one is my first and last nonIC rig. They just run too dang hot for towing without an intercooler. The pumps do respond to tweaking of the power screw. I think the reason the adjustments are more noticeable in the earlier ones is the hotter flowing injectors. The 9mm 4 holers are good for an extra 25 hp or so over the 7mm 6 holers, all else being equal.



Cummins went with the 7mm tips to reduce head crakcing that was so common with the bigger 9mm tips (the 9mm tips put the injector bore and intake valve seat too close together). The size of the tip (9mmor 7mm) is really irrelevant to the amount of fuel it will flow. Just look at the EDMs CB Parker is getting; and the ridiculous flow of some of the 2nd Gen EDMs and EH injectors.



If you ding the turbo with the pyro pre turbo, taking out the turbo is the least of your worries.



Most bang for the buck is turning the AFC cone and full power screw. 220/ 550 is not hard to accomplish anymore.



Philip, NIsaacs-

I knew about the old 3psd aux trannies, but only because I had read about them here. If I could find one, I'd like to get it. DOnt think I'd ever use the under except in the hayfield, but I'd make use of the over on a regular basis, and occasionally go in direct if towing in the mountains.



Daniel

 

[Mel Fuelling]

I found a 3 speed Brownie last year at Inland Truck Parts in Omaha. I believe they wanted $350 for it, 200, for a rebuild, and $400 to install it turnkey. I didn't want to spend that much money at the time, but I wish I had sometimes. They were a little vague about the shifter and linkage. I would love to have one when my wife is pulling the hay trailer on a hot day. Maybe in underdrive + granny my legs wouldn't wear out as quick.



The Brownie was a cast iron box that looked like it weighed as much as my Getrag. I don't remember a series or number, but I think they said it was 20% under, direct, and 20% over.