Any GOOD 4x4 front end spec readers?

[Motorhead]

My truck is a 2007, 5.9, 4x4. Nothing has been done with the front end since new. Ball joints are tight as are the tie rod ends. When going down the freeway, if it is flat, I can let go of the wheel and it stays straight for quite a while. I am going to have some Synergy tie rod ends and a track bar installed for free because they want my truck to perform the installation video. I went to my tire shop and got the specs of what my truck is NOW without any adjustments. The picture shows what the tech measured on my truck. I searched and couldn't find where someone had posted the ideal settings for Caster, Camber and toe in for a third gen 4x4. Anyone have that posting? At the BOTTOM Right is "Thrust Angle" for the rear axle. What does that mean? Thanks, Chris

 

[seafish]

Here is a PDF file from Thuren Suspension that you can print and take with you to the alignment shop--

https://www.thurenfabrication.com/media/wysiwyg/THUREN_FAB_ALIGNMENT.pdf

And here is the longer article that you can read firs to FULLY understand what your tuck needs for front end alignment--

https://www.thurenfabrication.com/tech/alignment-and-handling.html

 

[Motorhead]

Thanks Seafish, I still have the "Y" steering setup so the Thuren settings are no good for me. There was some revised settings that someone had posted.

 

[seafish]

^^^oops missed that part.

That being said, maybe give Thuren a call and see what they have to say about that ??

 

[Wayne M.]

From knowing what I know, the numbers aren’t too bad!
The camber is not really adjustable without offset balljoints. The caster is adjusted with the eccentrics in the lower arms, but it’s nearly identical and positive. The toe is amazingly dead on, but that’s all out the window with the new tie rods, which will be adjusted.
The thrust line is an imaginary line that checks the squareness of the rear axle and the front axle and frame. If it were off, you’d look like a old ‘70’s Chevy Nova with a shifted subframe dog walking down the road.
I can definitely see that you do not drive on NYC roads!

 

[Prairie Dog]

Can't understand why it doesn't like the caster. That's a good reading (as evidenced by how it drives) unless they're just looking for more.
EDIT: I think they're looking for 3.8 min caster but I'd say it's good nuff.

 

[AH64ID]

Does Synergy make “Y” steering or are you converting to “T”?

 

[Motorhead]

Gary, I am not sure on which parts they are changing to, I AM embarrassed to say. I didn't add that my truck has 106,500 miles on it with all original front end parts. The only changes I have done is the Dynatrac hubs and the steering box pitman arm support.
ONE thing I try to avoid is turning the steering wheel, engine running, sitting still. I always try to roll before turning. I see people doing lock to lock turning with big tires and wonder why their front ends are shot.

 

[cerberusiam]

Toe in is almost to where you do not want it, 0.05 or less would be ideal.

Caster is good if it will drive straight.

Thrust angle is good.

Left side camber is good per spec and that is where you want it as close as possible for tire wear. Right side is the wrong way, if anything they want some positive camber not negative and it is beyond spec because the spec is 0.25 +\- .50, something wrong with the the ball joint, axle C, wheel, or wheel bearing on the right side. You want positive or close to 0 on the camber so when the weight is applied it will stay close to spec. Negative caster is for high speed handling and lots of turning, not really something you do with a truck so as close to 0 camber as possible is best keeping the cross camber to a minimum, like 0.1- 0.3.