Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) any good fuel pressure gauge kits

[Hootguy]

I am finally getting around to getting some fuel pressure gauges on my truck,,i'd like to install some in cab gauges,,i want to have both presuure from the in side and out side,,so i can tell when it's time to change filters before i get stopped at the side of the road,,or change filters for nothing... . might consider a vaccum gauge to see when there is a restriction,,,if anyone has good advice on gauges,,i want to do it right the first time,,

 

[hsmith]

I really don't see the benefit of return pressure gauge as it will be low all the time. I use Isspro with the snubber really chocked down so the pulses don't destroy the gauge. Yes, I do have pressure in the cab but have not had any issues. Filter needs to be changed every 15k anyway, regardless.

 

[GAmes]

I bought an Isspro EV2 oil pressure gauge, another sender & wire harness from Isspro and a 3pole dt toggle switch. I can use the same gauge to measure either fuel or oil pressure with a flip of the switch. You could do the same with fuel pressure, but like Smitty I don't think that return pressure is a big deal.

 

[Hootguy]

i meant i want to monitor pressure going into the filter and out of the filter,,,to be able to know if i have a pump going bad or a filter plugging up,,,and there's no sense in changing a fuel filter if it doesn't need it,,,i know many guys who go 40k and more on a filter,,depends on your fuel supply i guess,,,any recommendations on a good set of gauges,,mechanical or electric??

 

[Joseph Donnelly]

Geno's Garage has a selection of electric fuel pressure gauges so diesel fuel won't go into the cab. However, 12-valve mechanical lift pumps are reliable and seldom fail completely. If one isn't giving full pressure, you will get low power. It is the electric pumps that need to be monitored closely. You probably won't see anything useful from a gauge sender on the return side as a partially plugged filter will flow enough at lower power usage, and the return line doesn't have much pressure to begin with.

 

[rMetzger]

He's not wanting to measure return-line pressure. He wants to measure pressure between the lift-pump and the filter, and to take a second reading between the filter and the injection-pump. When they're just within a couple PSI, the filter is clean and free-flowing. As the filter progressively gets more and more clogged, the pressure differential increases. The higher number will always be pre-filter, lower number post-filter. Crappy performance, coupled with a large pre/post pressure drop will indicate clogged filter. Crappy performance with good input pressure, and miniscule pre/post pressure drop will indicate issues that are other-than-filter.

 

[GAmes]

i meant i want to monitor pressure going into the filter and out of the filter,,,to be able to know if i have a pump going bad or a filter plugging up,,,,any recommendations on a good set of gauges,,mechanical or electric??

OK, I get it. My suggestion is still good though, one gauge, two senders and a toggle switch. The reason I went with Isspro EV2s is their senders are the only ones Isspro sells that will tolerate diesel fuel. I mounted the toggle under the hood and only sent one set of wires into the cab, but you could easily put the toggle on the dash.

 

[CCiatteo]

The other thing that will happen over time, is that you will learn to recognize "good" fuel pressure (new filter) from low fuel pressure (old or plugged filter or failing lift pump), so I think the dual sender idea is kinda overkill. Not throwing stones, but you could simplify the install and save some money as well. Maybe an "idiot" light like the one geno's sell in conjunction with a gauge would be more useful?

I have a gauge on my 12v and can tell when the filter is done (which is way before the FSM says it should be), I don't think a second gauge would be very useful, but low pressure "idiot" light might be good addition.

FWIW I run the Tork Tek Snubber/tapped banjo bolt right on top of the filter head (out to injection pump) and then have a braided AN line off that over to the fender with a "T". One leg is capped and used as my bleeder, the other leg has the sending unit. Its been 3 or 4 years and zero problems with the sender or gauge (full sweep electric Autometer Z-series) or snubber.

Maybe on a 24v two sending units would be more useful to keep an eye on the lift pump and the other to monitor the fuel filter, but on a 12v?