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Any help installing DD2's or DTT VB? Pictures?

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Rough idle , not overflow valve

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I'll be installing DD2's and a Bill K. (DTT) Valvebody by myself this weekend, and would gladly accept any tips, and/or pictures of the installs. I have done neither but have extensive engine and manual transmission rebuilding experience.
Thanks in advance, Bob

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Y2K Black 3500 ISB 4x4, 4:10 LSD,Auto,QC,SLT Laramie,"EZ", LB, Polished Stull Billet Grill & Fog inserts, Chrome Smitty-Built Step Rails, Mopar Chrome-Tipped Mud Flaps, A-Pillar mounted West-Tach Turbo/Pyro/Trans Temp gauges,Rancho 9000's set at '1',Diamond Plated Tool Box, OEM U. R. Bedliner + other stuff.
Fact:The First Fords' had 'DODGE' Engines! The new PSD's need them!
 
Follow the instructions DD sends out with the injectors, and it is a snap. I have been told DTT provides instructions and tools that make a VB easy too. Take your time, double check everything before moving on to the next step, and you will be in good shape.

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99 2500 QC 4X4 AUTO SB 24V LARAMIE SLT 3. 5 LSD 285-75-16'S SPA Boost/EGT Everything but leather NRA Member Great Lakes TDR Member
 
RobbyRam, let me know how the VB works with the DD2 injectors. I have the injectors and was thinking about the VB upgrade myself.
 
The directions that came with my DTT VB were quite detailed and looked commplete. There were several pictures. Since I was installing the TC also I took it all to a local shop that had just finished installing the combo on another members truck. They said the directions were good.

As for the injectors, the directions that Diesel Dynamincs provides are the best. I followed them when I installed my 275's and never had a problem. Let me also add that it was the first time I had taken the valve cover off of anything, let alone pulling parts off my truck. Everything turned out fine. Like someone said above, take your time check everything twice and all will be well.

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John D. Rathert Jr.
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01 2500 Forrest Green Sport SLT+ QC LWB 4x4 Auto 3. 54 rear end with all options avail. DC Nerf Bars, DC Grill Guard, DC mud flaps, Line-X bed liner, Leer 160XL Topper, Power Edge, EZ Edge, SPA Boost/EGT Gauge on pillar mount, DTT's tc/vb combo, 275 RV injectors, DD 4" Exhaust and a KN RE0880 where the air box use to be. New turbo (HX40), SS fuel lines and bigger injectors in planning stages... . See My Truck, Dads truck: 98. 5 3500 SLT QC LWB 4x4, Brother Truck: 92 W250 SLT CC LWB 4x4 (Dads old truck) Winter fun - 2000 Skidoo Summit 700
I am my own warranty station. ZOOM ZOOM
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[This message has been edited by JR2 (edited 03-20-2001). ]
 
One word of advice. Stop at Radioshack before you begin the BOMBing. You will need to buy some resistors for pin #31. There is no way in advance to tell you which one you will need so buy the 33, 50,68,80,100,and 130 ohm resistors (they are about 49 cents per pack of 5). Get the . 5 watt or 1 watt resistors. If you do not soldier the resistor into place you will have second gear starts. Your voltage reading before adding the resistor should be about 5. 1--5. 14v. You want the reading to end up 4. 67--4. 92v. It is an orange wire #31. Bill K is always available by phone if you get stuck.



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1999 2500 4x4, auto, 3. 54 LS, HD241, Quad cab SLT, Blk Sport Pkg, 16x8 Eagles, 285 Bridgestone AT, Amsoil, 80/100w lights, Valentine One, DTT TC/vb, DD2's, DD TTPM, Isspro gauges.
1992 SC400
1978 Mooney 201 IFR
 
Thanks all for the help, especially Chris for the directions and 2000ney for the resistor help. Why so many different choices on the resistors?
 
DTT provides a 200 ohm , but its all dependant on the transducer , its a coil and comes from different suppliers , i ended up putting 51 ohm in a friends that originally had a 200 ohm , to test the voltage you must start the truck , so do this part last . everything is straight forward , hardest part will be trying to get the VB up with accumulator piston and spring not falling out , it comes with a holder , then trying to get a couple bolts started to hold it so you can get in the rest . if you can get a second pair of hands that don't mind getting dirty it would be a HUGE help . also note that trans fluid will be dripping the hole time you have the pan off , and speaking of the pan being off , if its the stock pan and doesn't have a drain plug , now is the time to install it .

its a bit tricky getting the park rod back in place to get that e clip back on , take your time and try to be paitent .
 
Hello Everyone,

I'll be installing Bill K's convertor and valvebody next week and have a quick question for all of you who have done this yourselves. I'll be soing this in the driveway on my back and was wondering if it is easier doing the vavlebody while the transmission is out?? Is it easier looking down on it or is it better looking up at it?? Does gravity have any effect on doing the band strut?? I know some things are actually easier to do hanging down as opposed to being rolled over, don't want any unfamiliar parts falling into the transmission case, this can't happen if I'm working under it. Thanks for any help or tips you guys can give me. This is a great "support group with vast amounts of knowledge" for our addiction:0)

Thanks again
Ron

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1998. 5 2500 quad cab long bed 4. 10 LSD automatic, 285/75-16 coopers, add on cab clearance lights, tailgate running lamps, MSC fog lamps, Banks PYRO,trans temp,boost guages on Apillar, Autometer fuelpressure guage on floor, soon to be BOMBED
 
please tell us (especially me) how it goes. i kinda want to know if it is something i can do or if i should call in the calvary when i do it (HVAC).
 
My advice is to make sure you torque your fuel line connectors correctly. This is a metal to metal, high pressure boundary and the service manual stresses that it is critical. Also, there are several methods for injector insertion/removal. I used bent needle nose pliers and it worked very well. Good luck.
 
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