Any ideas? Front breaks

[robiR]

I need some ideas guys-I've run out



I just did a complete break job on my W350, and I have a problem with the front calapers sticking. . it has ruined my rotors. I have changed the calapers(rebuilt from AutoZone) and my master cyn. (aslo rebuilt from AutoZone-took 3 to get a good one though ) My question, the only other thing in the cir is the Mod vaule, which checks good by the pin pushing out(IAW the service manual) Would the Mod vaule cause the pressure from releasing on the front cal. ? another bad master cyn (the other ways cyn is good)? Maybee the new calabers bad? I have never befor seen such cheep parts!





any ideas I have run out, and now I have to replace my front rotors, befor I take off cross the states next week? Thanks in advance

 

[AlK]

robiR,

I am going by memory (which is not the best) but when I work on my front brakes I make sure that the pin on which the caliper slides is very clean and has a good light lubricant on them. Otherwise what happens when you step on the brake, the pads grab the rotor and when you take your foot off the pedal the caliper may not slide back and the pad on the side of the caliper without the cylinder will keep pressure on one side of the rotor. FWIW - I hope this makes some sense?

---

Al

 

[robiR]

yes it does, I had cleaned it , but am gonna check it agin, something that hasn't crossed my mind today... . Thanks

 

[Lil' Dog]

Use some Nickel or Copper never sieze on the pins and sliders, keeps that binding from happening and the stuff is good for the high temps of the brake components. Just a thought.



J-eh

 

[ETOBICOKE]

Brake Plate Lube

There was a product called Rusty Brake Plate Lube on the market about 20 years ago, looked just like copper anti seize paste. I used up the can I had long ago and just use the anti seize paste now. There are two places you can have problems, one is the whole caliper rusted to the mounting bracket and the other is the piston freezing in the cylinder. Be careful of some of the chain store auto parts, many of them are poor quality import parts, especialy brake drums and rotors. Brand new replacement calipers are relatively cheap from the dealer. I tend to go for the better quality OEM parts or a well known replacement brand, have found in the long run that they last much longer with fewer troubles installing them.



Neil

 

[strombly]

I dont know much about the dodge disk breaks, but I do know that the calipers in other disk break systems require freedom of lateral movement

 

[JBrookshire]

Brake lines???

I know some times I have experinced the brake line on the inside of it brakedown and not let the fluid go back. This is just what I have hade happen to me. Hope it helps. And I don't know of a way to check for this either. Justin

 

[cummins2go]

Hi robiR you might check the rubber brake hose that hooks to the caliper, they can collapse inside. You can't see physical damage from outside, but it will push the fluid in the caliper, but not let it come out. You can tell if this is the problem by loosening the bolt that holds the hose to the caliper to release the pressure then see if wheel spins freely. I have seen this happen on 4x4 trucks several times. Hope this helps.

 

[BFC]

If you don't find a fix for your probem call Sam Peterson 360-357-4958. He's the TDR brake guru and all around good guy. I bought new pads from him this week, good prices too.



Glenn

 

[robiR]

Thanks for the replys, I am gonna tear back into it today, hopeing that it is the rubber lines, and re lub the slides. Non of the parts houses around here stock the rotors of it, so I won't be able to accire them till too late. I might have to rent something for my trip! Thanks agin, and I will post what I find

 

[scott4glamis]

try using new brake parts from NAPA like new calipers and brake hardware and m/c. I USE SIL-GLYDE SILICONE LUBRICANT on all the moving/metal to metal parts, and BRAKE LUBE?????? ON THE PARTS THAT CONTACT BRAKE FLUID IE: WHEEL CYL. CUPS AND M/C

CUPS. ALSO BE AWARE THAT NAPA sells 2 grades of brake parts

the lower grade is rebuilt and/or made in taiwan etc. . GO 1ST QUALITY... ... ... ... . NUF SAID

 

[robiR]

Well, I unhooked the Left break hose, and the calpers released-both of them did. I can understand this releasing the left one if the hoses were bad, but not the right one too. I feel that my lub job on the calaper joints are ok. Has anyone had a metering vaulve do this to them? Or possibly a nother bad master cyn? Anyway I have learned my lesson on parts, you get what you pay for. No one around here seems to stock thease parts, so I will not be able to take her on my trip-Rats, cause I just timed the pump and wanted to see how she does.



Thanks agin, and I will let you know what I find out when I return

 

[bvanetten]

What scott4glamis said. Get rid of that Autozone crap. I used to buy alot of their stuff because it had lifetime warranty. I gave up on them after replacing a starter 4 times in one year. Put a NAPA starter on and haven't had a problem sense. 1st gens have enough problems with brakes when everything is right. No need to compound the problem with poorly rebuilt parts.

 

[robiR]

Thought I would let you all know it was the new master cyn. This makes it five so far to count, but this time a new one from NAPA.

I never realised there was so many below standard parts out there! Thanks agin for all the ideas

 

[CrewCabDiesel]

Guys better check on Napa, I have had NOTHING but Trouble with NAPA rebuilds. I have gone thru 9 different calipers, and they are ALL crap None of them had new pistons in them and in ½ of the calipers I got the seals were torn or the pistons were stuck. On the others the bleeder screws were stripped or had been way over toqued so they would never seal. These defective calipers never made out of the store. I had put the first set without giving them much inspection, I just ASSUMED that Napa's stuff was good(yes this was napa's top line ) After the first Caliper seized, I began to inspect them very closely. Also I have gone thru 2 master cylinders/boosters from NAPA and the 3rd booster is failing now. As for alternators from napa that is sh@t too, napa’s top of the line alternator failed on the first long trip I took, it was only 2 weeks old. Now to top it off my so called new water pump from napa is starting to leak. So in my opinion NAPA is no better than autozone. Napa just charges more for the same CRAP. I have spent a fortune on what is supposed to be the best parts at napa, only to get junk !! . I may be hard on my truck and put a lot of miles on it, but I would like to get around the block without replacing someone’s trash part. I have gone to a local rebuilder and the quality is MUCH better & don’t have the problems. Don't mean to ramble, but on my top 5 pet peeves is doing the same job twice.

 

[RDBuck]

new parts

I know most of us hate to go to the dealer, but I must admit, the best parts for our trucks come from Chrysler. You might pay more but the quality is there especially compared to most of the chains plus you get an upgraded part a lot of the time. I always check out my local dealer first- it helps to have a friendly parts man-and many times the price is competitive. Just my experience.

 

[Matt S]

I have yet to find a good dealer from which to get parts. They are usually WAY over priced and don't have any warranty. I'm not sure the quality is any different. Just how many people need to make a profit off that one part. I do understand about junk rebuilt parts. I'm on my 4th steering box in 1. 5 years.