Any Oil Plug Failures?

[SMorneau]

Some of you may remember my letter to the TDR, a couple of years back, which outlined my difficulty with the improper torque spec on the oil plug. As far as I know I was the first one to learn about the overtorque/head fracturing problem, the hard way over a weekend.

My replacement stock plug and replaced oil pan have not given me any trouble when torqued to the correct 40 ft-lb spec. I love being able to use just a rachet and extension on it. I would never dream of having a lever-operated oil drain under my truck; it really wouldn't go with my locking gas cap!

 

[illflem]

SM,I'm with you,I see no reason to use the anything but the stock plug,but I've only changed the oil on my 2500 thirty-one times, maybe it will break next time. Putting a valve under there is asking for trouble,unless you change your oil once a week. Why fix something that isn't broke.

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95' 25004X4,AT,Driftwood,Banks Stinger,Warn fender flairs and running boards(work truck)
95 3500,5 speed 3:54,BD E-brake,Driftwood,Banks&Psycotty,34,000 GCVW apple and tractor hauler(works harder truck)

 

[sdalton]

Just put the SuperPlug in. It really is a good piece of workmanship. Very strong magnet. I think it was about 19-20 dollars with the TDR discount. Just look at one firsthand and you will know what I mean.

 

[SMorneau]

Really, I didn't want to start another thread on high performance oil plugs. I just wanted to know if any of you had a problem with the stock plug at the recommended torque specification?

 

[Brandon]

we have had 3 break in the last month, funny thing is they are really just the high mileage truck we have broken the plugs, 200,000 miles or so, big deal so i gotta throw a new plug on, it happens eventually, shoot at least the plugs dont strip like crappy ole 14x1. 5mm ferd plugs

B... .....

 

[bigfig]

The second time I changed the oil I used a torque wrench and tried to bring it up to 45 pds. and it just never seemed to feel like it seated properly so I pulled it off and noticed the head on the plug had fractured and bent and was partially off the main body of the plug. I brought it to the dealer and they gave me a replacement. the head on the replacement actually looks not as thick as the original. I have since ordered a Superplug with the magnet, and from a machinist's point of view I don't like how the magnet is attatched to the plug. The magnet is pressed into a stem which is 3/8" thick and that stem is pressed into the tip of the oil plug. The magnet should have been pressed directly into the oil plug... now I'm a little worried the stem might break off since it's so thin, and it will either damage the engine or get magnetically stuck to something... but the head on the plug is extra thick, so it shouldn't break. I'm wondering why you had to replace your oil pan? It seems like a good welder could have gone under your truck and just welded on a fitting you could have put a plug into.

 

[MikeR]

Never had a problem with the factory plugs at all,and I don't feel the need to use something else.

-Mike

 

[Joe G.]

I've always used the stock plug. The rim pulled off the original. Since then I've been torqueing it to 35lbs and no problems.

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Joe George
Eureka, CA

'95 2500 CC auto 4X4,3. 54,Combo EGT/boost guage,custom switch panel,PacBrake,TST #5,BD valve body,Automatic motorhome steps on both sides,Foldacover hard bed cover,Cummins chrome kit,Black steel grill guard,Front hitch receiver

 

[Big-D]

SMorneau... Perhaps I am the foolish one in this forum for although I have changed my oil four times in 10K miles, I have yet to use a torque wrench, once. I am using the Cummins stock drain plug and don't feel a need to purchase anything different. Reason, when I tighten the plug I allow the "feel" of first contact with washer and the pan to indicate how much more pressure I need to apply. I have never had a leak and will only consider changing my washer until I see some indication or other reason to change the plug. As a garage mechanic and farm hand for many a year I have grown accustomed to knowing when tight, is tight enough!

I am not bashing those that use a torque wrench technique, but how does one know for sure the wrench is reading correctly? Does the average Dodge owner who changes his own oil calibrate his torque wrench on a regular basis? I think not. Without knowing for sure if the reading one is receiving from his wrench, he is more apt to brake drain plug flanges then a person who "feels", when the plug is tight. Just my opinion, but it feels good to me... Dave

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[Wiredawg]

Big-D:

I've changed my oil 4 times and will be doing 'er again next week. I too have never used a torque wrench on it or any other oil drin plugs. I use the same technique you do with excellent results.

I'm not knocking using torque wrenches either, just have what I feel is a reliable system.

Happy oil changes

Wiredawg

 

[Briar Hopper]

When my truck had it's first 3000 miles on it , I took it to Valvoline Instant Oil Change, and enjoyed the show, watching them trying to get that filter off. You know what they say about payback?
Same ape that took off the filter must have put the drain plug back in, it took a breaker bar to get it out when I changed the oil myself the next time... not only that, but the square socket corners inside were nearly rounded off. I had to borrow my mom's car to go get another drain plug.

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Tom M.
Secretary of the Great Lakes Turbo Diesel Registry GLTDR B. A. D. Boys www.lubedealers.com/meers.html

 

[Okie-Go]

I had one break on the 98. On the 2001 I bought a super plug and put the original in the glove box in case I ever need it. I ordered the super plug and the lady said mention you're a member of tdr and she will ship it for free. Save yourself 5. 00

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2001 quadcab slt 2500 HO 6spd. LWB,2wd,dk garnett red, trailer tow package,camper special, anti spin 3. 54 axle, speed liner,oversized stainless steel chicken slide,66 gallon in bed aux. tank,K&N air filter,Reese 20k hitch, Terry 2000 EX 30ft. double slide 5er, 2000 20ft gooseneck for haulin jeep, firewood and huntin stuff. 5X12 tagalong for haulin the 4 wheeler. Okie Newton

 

[John]

SMorneau, I read that article in the TDR just before my '98. 5 Ram arrived. Upon the first oil change I immediately knew what you were talking about! I also experienced the shank/head separation of the drain plug (using a Snap-On torque wrench set to 44 lbs. ft... then, the specified torque). #ad
The OE drain plug is an extremely poor design at best! I have posted this many times in the past on this BB, the CDW BB and the Happy Campers BB.

BTW, the shank/head separation failed at an estimated 35-40 lbs. ft.

Say what you want but my Femco EZ Drain, drain plug is so superior to that POS OE drain plug it's not even funny!

..... NOT EVEN!

 

[John]

Big-D, yes I do ONLY own Snap-On torque wrenches, no I don't wrench for a living, and yes I do have them periodically calibrated by Snap-On. Is that anal enough?

 

[Big-D]

John... one has to do what feels right. Anal or otherwise. Nothing wrong with Snap-on tools in my book, just can't see spending that kind of $$$ for something I don't need to use on a drain plug. Engine assembly and torque wrenches, now those two go together and well worth the investment. Keep your powder dry. Dave

 

[John]

I use all three of mine on most everything with a torque spec.

#ad

 

[Big-D]

John, three torque wrenches? Wow! All Snap-on and clicker type I suppose. Wish I had your kind of money. Dave

 

[John]

The largest of the three is their newer technology clicker style (50-250 lbs. ft. if memory serves). I also have another cheapie torque wrench which I loan out.

 

[illflem]

The way I check my torque wrench calibration,since they have an overlap in range,is to set them to the same torque,connect the drives together with the appropriate socket then see if they both click at the same time. They always have. Resetting the torque to zero before storage is the key to keeping them accurate. I also have three Snap-Ons.
I've never used a torque wrench on any drain plug,just go by feel,maybe that's why I've never had a problem.

 

[SMorneau]

Thanks for the feedback I have been putting my plug in at about 35 ft-lb. But I will watch it carefully.

The oil pan needed replaced because it deformed the sealing surface when it was over torqued the first time. It took a concave shape and it should be flat. This may be the problem the other member has with breaking plugs on his "high mileage" truck.

FYI: I check my torque wrench against my other torque wrench which is a beam style and they match very closely. The beam style wrenches will not generally require calibration unless they are damaged. I don't use a torque wrench on most things but even a cheap one is a good investment. Sometimes feel isn't good enough!

Think I could get a super plug without the magnet? I still have a problem with the valve style plug. In fact, I only install an oil sampling petcock when I need to pull a sample. Otherwise the port is plugged. Anal too, I guess.

Incidently, the flat top plug is, apparently, unique to the Dodge.