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Any other 2005's running aftermarket race trannys?

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Any codes?Any goofy shifting?What are your shift points at part throttle and full throttle?Is it consistent?I am running a D. T. T. race transmission or at least all the internals ,and after a month it started setting a code 1751 and 1754. I am also having a inconsistent part throttle shift from first to second (sometimes at 1600 and other times at 2400. )At full throttle it will sometimes shift right to third then down shift to second then up shift to third again. As well it will hang at 3400 rpm in the shift from third to fourth,apparently this can be fixed with the install of a toggle switch and some wires to force the shift to O. D. Is there a simple fix?
 
Get in touch with DTT. I've done the O/D and lockup switches on an 04 and they work good. They refuse to shift to OD with your foot planted.
 
Bill K. from D. T. T. says that the codes are isolated to me only. He told me to contact my dealer to see if there is a fix through them. The one code (1754=coast clutch solenoid circut malfunction)should not even exsist according to dtt, as there is not a coast clutch in a 48re. The 1751 code(shift solenoid A performance) could be something but I am not sure. I don't like asking the dealer about this stuff as it puts them in a awkward spot. Besides if I have to get them to fix anything they are going to charge me $90 a hour and i have already spent around $7000 on transmission and related parts and labour. If I can fix it myself i will ,so that i can save a few bucks. Bill told me to get my dealer to check my throttle position sensor,this could be part of the problem as it has stuck wide open once for about 5 seconds and another time for a split second. I just want a good aggressive. consistent shifting transmission,that is not going to make that big pic of a engine light up. Don,t get me wrong guys I love this transmission,and the guys at D. T. T. have been really good to deal with but I want to get this stuff sorted out.
 
Anyone else having these problems? I am getting those same two codes with a ATS transmission. Was having a lot of issues with my first one, I just got my truck back after the second transmission went in and now a bunch of codes. I have been having transmission problems since June of last year. I hope I can figure it out and quick!
 
I just got a ATS transmission about 3 weeks ago and the first drive tripped 4 codes. It went back to the shop and got 2 codes next time. Went back to the shop and they said its ready so I'll pick it up tomorrow and hopefully no codes. I've been getting 1757 & 1762. I went through Gillett Diesel in Salt Lake City and they've been great. Everything is under warranty.
 
not to sound like were better or anything but our 05' race transmission is awsome, it performes like it should ---no codes or any thing out of the ordinary. good luck, :-laf
 
Race Comp transmission

I'm running the Suncoast Race Comp transmission w/91% TC. No codes and no problems. Works like it should,... works like you'd want it to. Perfect.
 
Well, I get 1751 - Shift Solenoid A performance, 1754 - Coast Clutch Solenoid Malf. , 0720 - Output Speed Sensor Malf. , 0500 - Vehicle Speed Sensor Malf. Any ideas what it might be if it is not the Transmission?
 
OT-OF-HERE!! said:
I'm running the Suncoast Race Comp transmission w/91% TC. No codes and no problems. Works like it should,... works like you'd want it to. Perfect.





Suncoast doesnt have these issues becuase they run way lower pressures than the competition. the only problem is that they dont have as much holding power on the clutches. suncoast only runs 65psi at idle and only about 165 at wot and thats only after tc lockup. Hts runs 85psi at idle and 190-200psi at wot. dunrite runs 95psi at idle and about 200psi at wot. yes i have tried all 3 and I checked line pressures on all 3. the suncoast shifted ok but was to harsh on 4th and lockup. it also had some shuttle shifting from 1-2-2-1 at light throttle. I have also had all 3 apart and suncoast is the only one that uses the valvebody in almost stock condition. they drill out the 1-2 shift hole form . 070 to . 125 and drill out the 2-3 shift hole from . 130 to 187 and drill out the 2-3 relief hole to . 187. they put in an aftermarket manual valve and thats it!!!! 438. 00 for that? they even use all the stock springs. anyways i guess its obvious wich ones will have the most holding power. the problem is when you raise the line pressures up that high the transmission starts doing wierd things. especially the 05's with the electric throttle valve actuator.

Jamie
 
J. Davy said:
Any codes?Any goofy shifting?What are your shift points at part throttle and full throttle?Is it consistent?I am running a D. T. T. race transmission or at least all the internals ,and after a month it started setting a code 1751 and 1754. I am also having a inconsistent part throttle shift from first to second (sometimes at 1600 and other times at 2400. )At full throttle it will sometimes shift right to third then down shift to second then up shift to third again. As well it will hang at 3400 rpm in the shift from third to fourth,apparently this can be fixed with the install of a toggle switch and some wires to force the shift to O. D. Is there a simple fix?



The correct code definitions are:



P1751=Transmission Throttle Valve Position Sensor Minimum Range Performance



P1754=Transmission Throttle Valve Actuator Stuck





I have been dealing with the same problems you are ever since I put in an aftermarket valvebody. I have tried 3 differnt brands and I figured out what is causing the problems. The stock throttle valve stop screw setting is . 900. the aftermarket guys like to set them at . 800 well that work fine unless you have an 05 with the electric throttle valve actuator. the sensor has a range it travels and when the screw is set at . 800 it doesnt travel far enough, and it sets a code. then sometimes it wigs out and causes the line pressure to raise way up to about 125psi at idle and 220psi at wot!!! Thats whats happening when you get those really late shifts at high rpms. the stop screw being set at . 800 is also what is causing your 2-3 cutloose.



I have found that by adjusting the screw to about . 850 I do not get codes anymore or the 2-3 cutloose. The problem is that the downshifts are really slow at this setting. I am still waiting for a fix so we can have both worlds but so far havnt seen one. that cut loose will burn up your 3rd gear clutches if you dont adjust that stop screw in soon. mine only lasted 3 days at 3500 miles before the clutches fried!!!!

Jamie
 
I've got a Suncoast transmission. I had the 1-2-2-1 thing happen under light throttle and Jayson up at Bakers Diesel (Ogden Ut) cleaned out that solenoid and it's shifted great ever since. I'll tow my 5th wheel in lvl 4 with the hot juice and the transmission holds the power fine. transmission temps stay in check and there's not even a inkling that it's slipping. I'm very happy with my Suncoast. No codes :D
 
Well it seems that the Idle Line Pressure is set to high and is setting these codes. I was able to get rid of the 0720 and 0500 by checking the Output Shaft Speed Sensor plug. It just did not have a good connection. So now I have to take it back and have the pan dropped and the line pressures set on it. . . I am just ready to have a transmission working right!
 
CrashCade said:
Well it seems that the Idle Line Pressure is set to high and is setting these codes. I was able to get rid of the 0720 and 0500 by checking the Output Shaft Speed Sensor plug. It just did not have a good connection. So now I have to take it back and have the pan dropped and the line pressures set on it. . . I am just ready to have a transmission working right!





High idle pressure is setting what codes? I have had mine up to 105psi and didnt see any codes? the codes you and he listed have nothing to do with high line pressure. not to mention the transmission doesnt even have a sensor for pressure.
 
Well then, If it doesn't then there are a few transmission builders out there that have no idea what they are talking about... There were some reputable companies that I checked with other than ATS to see what they had to say and that is what it came back to. So If there are no sensors for it then high line pressure is making some other devices not work correctly on my truck. I was just posting the info I got to see if it might help somebody else. On my ATS transmission, one full turn of this screw is a derease or increase of 5psi depending on wether you are opening or closing it!
 
CrashCade said:
Well then, If it doesn't then there are a few transmission builders out there that have no idea what they are talking about... There were some reputable companies that I checked with other than ATS to see what they had to say and that is what it came back to. So If there are no sensors for it then high line pressure is making some other devices not work correctly on my truck. I was just posting the info I got to see if it might help somebody else. On my ATS transmission, one full turn of this screw is a derease or increase of 5psi depending on wether you are opening or closing it!





Ther is NO line pressure sensor. The govenor is sensitive to pressure thats the only thing in this transmission that has any pressure sensor capabilties at all. I have a service manual and have rebuilt my transmission myself. Yes you can adjust the line pressure but there is still no sensor. :-{}
 
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